For as long as I can remember (OK, quite a bit longer than that) I have always built things to withstand the stresses provided by 10 dancing elephants. I do not recall exactly who defined that particular standard, but everyone I know seems to understand it. As a result, many of the things I build are considerably heavier than need be, but rarely break.
Real dancing elephants are quite rare, so I don't usually get to truly field test my constructions. It's so difficult to assemble 10 of them in one place. =^..^=
Last edited by blackcat4866; 10-18-2015 at 11:05 PM.
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
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blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
I like the above rubber roller press idea. I might have to put one of these together.
It should also work in reverse and remove the old rubber roller as well.
Put a metal cylinder inside the main tube with an inner diameter just big enough for the plastic housing, and the push the old rubber roller off the plastic housing. Viola!!!.
The inner cylinder need not be full length of the main outer tubing, it just needs be a simple thin ring shape of metal soldered into place inside the main tube. Put a blanking plate/metal washer over the top of inner removal cylinder and press the new rubber roller onto the old housing, as per normal.
With a bit of cheeky modification to the design it might be possible to do it in one operation....
See attached image.
RollerPress.jpg
I just had a light bulb moment. The roller press can be done even simpler and smaller to fit in a work bag. I'll leave it for the time being. It would be interesting to see how many others pick up on the general idea.
Last edited by NeoMatrix; 10-19-2015 at 01:43 AM.
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997...
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Not only can you remove rubber from both the old and new rollers for swapping hubs, but if you start the rubber and turn it around in the press, it will install the rubber onto the hub too. Pictures please. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Pure bare ingenuity here guys
Cool ideas!
Hans
" Sent from my Intel 80286 using MS-DOS 2.0 "
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Novel idea on the roller press.
I just might have to try it out.
I have been using Ricoh rollers for color machines in some of my Kyoceras. Very similar roller from what I see in the picture.
The press deserves several likes.
Thanks!!!
We have been using the solid gray rollers from the 4035\5035 and km-4050\5050 models and they have been running longer at less then the cost of the originals in the machine. The part number is 2AR07230. They seem to be the ticket for us.
I took the liberty to photo-edit in your suggestion. I see a small mechanical issue. To illustrate the point I drew in the rollers as cutaways. Do you think that you can push the 14mm end of the hub through a 10mm oriface?
Roller Press Revision.JPG
=^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
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