Thanks: 
Likes: I would agree with Gar on this one the belt is old although it is such a low copy count it has probably power cycled/single copy jobs that it's finished. I have seen this before on one or two other low volume machines.
Just my two cents worth.
Brian
Dislikes: 0
I would agree with Gar on this one the belt is old although it is such a low copy count it has probably power cycled/single copy jobs that it's finished. I have seen this before on one or two other low volume machines.
Just my two cents worth.
Brian
If the fuser was experiencing this thermal runaway, you should see evidence in the fuser and exit sections. Most everything is plastic, and will warp, distort, melt and stink. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Re: Taskalfa 250ci - Transfer Belt stick to all drums over weekend
we are replaced so many transfer belts for this issue...finally we solved the problem ,ask customer to make at least 5 copies colour for every day morning and evening...then for the week end told them to open the front door and left door slightly...
the rubber belt contacting the drum unit in standby mode and if the machine kept under this condition for a long period (may two days or two months) the belt surface will stick above the drum contact area...up to today we are not clear, why this happening ...as a common knowledge rubber will melt after some time ,if you kept idle...
we knew this is not the correct way to solve the problem.but no suggestion from Kyocera Also...so to save your time, money and your weekend you should find some old school ideas
Sorry guys, was sent to remote area to do job and just now uploading pics.
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I know this sounds weird, but I have experienced this. My customer was using a portable air filtration system in their office, you know to keep the air clean.
They had no problems until they put this air filter in their office, It took us a while to figure it out, but it was even turning rubber rollers soft and causing some
metal frames to show rust. I asked them to unplug the air filter for a month. They did, and all problems went away, except for the rusted metal was still rusted.
I then had another customer with the same problems and noticed they had the same model air filter in their office. Told them to remove it and everything good again.
I don't remember the model, but it was a wood grain exterior, if you notice such a thing, it could be the problem.
I know it sounds weird, but it was the fix for me, twice.
Excuse me for jumping in here, but why is the belt in contact with the drums when in standby/sleep mode?
Shouldn't the belt unit be in a 'free' mode without contacting the drums?
I could see if power was shut off too quickly, and the belt didn't have time to retract to a 'free' position,
but otherwise the belt should only make contact when producing an image for copy/print or self calibration.
Or does this machine not do that?
I will apologise in advance here, because I don't know this machine.
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
On this model the primary belt unit does not retract, but the color primary transfer rollers do retract on a scissors mechanism, operated by a small DC motor and two cams. The belt remains in contact with the drums. This is one of the irritations of this model. Any time you want to remove a drum you must first remove the fuser, back the transfer unit out a few inches to clear the drums (the transfer belt ramps up about 10mm as you slide it out), remove the toner cartridges, remove the hopper assembly, remove the developer units, ... then finally remove the drums. It's inconvenient at best ... and definitely worse if the belt is glued to the drums. =^..^=Originally Posted by ZOOTECH
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Tks BC; I can't imagine an engineer would design a transfer unit this way - but, I'm not really surprised.
I really hate design engineers that don't take in consideration what the tech has to do to fix a problem.
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
We have lots of machines sitting on our storage area for long periods and not once seen this issue with any model or brand. You received the machine with this problem and my theory is , the previous service person may have used some product that broke down the belt a bit and hence the problem. Transfer belt are robust . I did one experiment a few weeks back to see if a transfer belt can be restored. I used a variety of chemicals, fedron, cannon belt cleaner, alcohol, and other stuff. the belt came out lot better and to my surprise it worked better and the belt surface was not damaged. The only thing though, i did not let the chemicals sit on the belt, but used a used green scoring pad to rub immediately. how some light can be shed to this mystery for real.
THE PIC'S match the problem we had with ours, the belt was 5 years old and showed it. diffrent enviroments could have an effect on these for sure and we have cleaned these too. I believe they just age out and placement plays a part of how soon. Are the newer class better about these issues? I have the small FS color machines out and so far so good, other than small toner ctgs.
Merry Christmas to those who lean that way. Happy ?? to everyone else.
Gar
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