Samsung ML-3051ND feeds extra blank page after the first one then jams

[nomadtech]

Here's the case: I just changed the separation pad in the tray and the rubber on the feeder roller. The pages seem to be separate, but instead of stopping the feed after the end of first page, it continues as if were a roll of paper.

The pages go one after another (not overlapping) even with a single-page job.

I checked the paper setting, it's correct Letter. Not sure what should make the feeder stop pulling more pages after the first one is in.

[blackcat4866]

What's happening is that the pickup solenoid is not catching the pawl of the pickup clutch. The pickup clutch just keeps rotating, continuously feeding paper as fast as it can. The solenoid could have a sticky noise damping pad, it could be magnetized, or it could just be out of position.

If it were me, and I was going to the trouble to take it apart, I would have on hand:
(1) JC33-00010A Solenoid
(1) JC97-02648A Clutch

=^..^=

[nomadtech]

Thanks for the reply, blackcat!

I entered the Diagnostic/Component Test menu and tested the T1 pick-up solenoid -- it seems to "click" on ON command, and shortly "un-click" on OFF. The clicks sound similar to ones coming from Bypass solenoid test.

Of course, it's not the same as opening the whole thing up, but would such result suggest that the T1 pick-up sol. is likely ok? Should there be any other way to diagnose it from the Component Test menu?

[blackcat4866]

To me, it tells you that there is a complete electrical circuit, and that the controller can turn it on and off in test mode. What it does not tell you, is if the sound damping foam has gone sticky, or if the actuator is flopping around at an odd angle not engaging the clutch, or if the controller just continues to send an On signal when printing, or if the actuator is magnetized. There is no way around it. Take it apart.

Electronic diagnostics are only a small part of your arsenal. Don't over-rely on them. Direct observation is next. =^..^=

[nomadtech]

blackcat,
Thanks for the advice -- straight to the point!

Finally I had some time to open the box up and get to the solenoids. You were right, ALL three of them are sticking up due to deteriorated bumper/damping pads.

Can't believe these tiny pads crippled the whole machine, yet they are not even mentioned in the service manual as possible causes. The solenoids seem to be ok, but the pads need to be replaced.

I wonder if there's any preferred way to craft the replacement pad?
Samsung only lists the whole solenoid as a part (which seemingly would again last no more that 5yrs, due to pads)
I saw suggestions to use electrical tape, felt, foam tape. What about cutting it out from a separation pad (it's the same thickness, but not foamy) or it won't last?

P.S. In fact now I understand that this can be also diagnosed from COMPONENT TEST menu, it should sound as short click-unclick in all of the the solenoid/clutch tests. This way I found out that multipurpose sol. is sticking too, now need to undo the MP.

[blackcat4866]

This problem is frequently misdiagnosed because often the solenoid works fine after it's been idling or just a few prints. It's after the solenoid heats up that the pad gets stickiest, sometimes hundreds of prints. My personal test is to manually press the actuator to the coil, then release it, paying attention to how quickly it returns.

I've also heard of use of vinyl electrical tape, cork separation pads, even the fuzzy side of self-adhesive velcro. But I've had the best results with an old bicycle inner tube of which I punch out 8mm disks with a paper punch. Clean off the old sound damper and adhesive, then attach the new pad with superglue.

There was a time when I would just remove the old pad and just let it click. An unfortunate side effect is that the metal actuator would magnetize over time, producing very similar results to the sticky sound damping pad.

Congratulations on diagnosing the problem. =^..^=