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Likes: Did u protect bus line on board from any heat used to solder in fuse_?Originally Posted by xsaver
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Did u protect bus line on board from any heat used to solder in fuse_?
**Knowledge is time consuming, exhausting and costly for a trained Tech.**
Hi this happen with me around 3 times as our mate said change 2 heads and the carraige board and it will work normally this happen with me in ipf8300 i dont know the reason ,i think canon in the ipf"s is not successful,hp running cost better ,in my counrty is very expensive the inks ,head,and the carrage unit .
Distinguished road makes you jewel in rough
I use normal soldering iron to replace. not use any type of hot air or heater.
your carriage PCB like me have dead fuse ?
Last edited by xsaver; 10-05-2015 at 01:56 PM.
u still need to prevent the heat from traveling
1.-You should choose a soldering iron with a 3-pronged grounding plug.
(ground will help prevent stray voltage from collecting at the soldering tip and potentially damaging sensitive components)
2-Best to use a more powerful iron (40W) so that you don't need to spend a lot of time heating the joint, which can damage components.
3-Only use rosin core solder. (acid core solder will destroy the traces on the printed circuit board and erode the component leads. It can also form a conductive layer leading to shorts)
4-On Printed circuit board work, a solder with a diameter of 0.75MM to 1.0MM is desirable.
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Soldering A Printed Circuit Board (PCB)
Soldering a PCB is probably the most common soldering task an electronics hobbyist will perform. The basic techniques are fairly easy to grasp but it is a skill that will take a little practice to master. The best way to practice is to buy a simple electronics kit or assemble a simple circuit (such as an LED chaser) on a perf-board. Don't buy that expensive kit or dive into a huge project after only soldering a few joints.
Soldering components onto a PCB involves preparing the surface, placing the components, and then soldering the joint.
Step 1: Surface Preparation:A clean surface is very important if you want a strong, low resistance solder joint. All surfaces to be soldered should be cleaned well. 3M Scotch Brite pads purchased from the home improvement, industrial supply store or automotive body shop are a good choice as they will quickly remove surface tarnish but will not abrade the PCB material. Note that you will want industrial pads and not the kitchen cleaning pads impregnated with cleaner/soap. If you have particularly tough deposits on your board, then a fine grade of steel wool is acceptable but be very cautious on boards with tight tolerances as the fine steel shavings can lodge between pads and in holes. Once you have cleaned the board down to shiny copper you can use a solvent such as acetone to clean any bits of the cleaning pad that may remain and to remove chemical contamination from the surface of the board. Methyl hydrate is another good solvent and a bit less stinky then acetone. Be aware that both these solvents can remove ink, so if your board is silk screened, test the chemicals first before hosing down the entire board.
A few blasts with compressed air will dry out the board and remove any junk that may have built up in the holes.
It also never hurts to give the component leads a quick wipe down as well, to remove glue or tarnish that may have built up over time.
Step 2: Component PlacementAfter the component and board have been cleaned, you are ready to place the components onto the board. Unless your circuit is simple and only contains a few components, you will probably not be placing all the components onto the board and soldering them at once. Most likely you will be soldering a few components at a time before turning the board over and placing more. In general it is best to start with the smallest and flattest components (resistors, ICs, signal diodes, etc.) and then work up to the larger components (capacitors, power transistors, transformers) after the small parts are done. This keeps the board relatively flat, making it more stable during soldering. It is also best to save sensitive components (MOSFETs, non-socketed ICs) until the end to lessen the chance of damaging them during assembly of the rest of the circuit. Bend the leads as necessary and insert the component through the proper holes on the board. To hold the part in place while you are soldering, you may want to bend the leads on the bottom of the board at a 45 degree angle. This works well for parts with long leads such as resistors. Components with short leads such as IC sockets can be held in place with a little masking tape or you can bend the leads down to clamp onto the PC board pads.
Step 3: Apply HeatApply a very small amount of solder to the tip of the iron. This helps conduct the heat to the component and board, but it is not the solder that will make up the joint. To heat the joint you will lay the tip of the iron so that it rests against both the component lead and the board. It is critical that you heat the lead and the board, otherwise the solder will simply pool and refuse to stick to the unheated item. The small amount of solder you applied to the tip before heating the joint will help make contact between the board and the lead. It normally takes a second or two to get the joint hot enough to solder, but larger components and thicker pads/traces will absorb more heat and can increase this time. If you see the area under the pad starting to bubble, stop heating and remove the soldering iron because you are overheating the pad and it is in danger of lifting. Let it cool, then carefully heat it again for much less time.
Step 4: Apply Solder To The Joint
Once the component lead and solder pad has heated up, you are ready to apply solder. Touch the tip of the strand of solder to the component lead and solder pad, but not the tip of the iron. If everything is hot enough, the solder should flow freely around the lead and pad. You will see the flux melt liquify as well, bubble around the joint (this is part of its cleaning action), flow out and release smoke. Continue to add solder to the joint until the pad is completely coated and the solder forms a small mound with slightly concave sides. If it starts to ball up, you have used too much solder or the pad on the board is not hot enough.
Once the surface of the pad is completely coated, you can stop adding solder and remove the soldering iron (in that order). Don't move the joint for a few seconds as the solder needs time to cool and resolidify. If you do move the joint, you will get what's called a "cold joint". This is recognized by it's characteristic dull and grainy appearance. Many cold joints can be fixed by reheating and applying a small amount of solder, then being allowed to cool without being disturbed.
Step 5: Inspect The Joint and CleanupOnce the joint is made you should inspect it. Check for cold joints (described a little above and at length below), shorts with adjacent pads or poor flow. If the joint checks out, move on to the next. To trim the lead, use a small set of side cutters and cut at the top of the solder joint.
Tips and Tricks
Soldering is something that needs to be practiced. These tips should help you become successful so you can stop practicing and get down to some serious building.
- Use heatsinks. Heatsinks are a must for the leads of sensitive components such as ICs and transistors. If you don't have a clip on heatsink, then a pair of pliers is a good substitute.
- Keep the iron tip clean. A clean iron tip means better heat conduction and a better joint. Use a wet sponge to clean the tip between joints. Keep the tip well tinned.
- Double check joints. When assembling complicated circuits, it is good practice to check joints after soldering them. Use a magnifying glass to visually inspect the joint and a meter to check resistance.
- Solder small parts first. Solder resistors, jumper leads, diodes and any other small parts before you solder larger parts like capacitors and transistors. This makes assembly much easier.
- Install sensitive components last. Install CMOS ICs, MOSFETs and other static sensitive components last to avoid damaging them during assembly of other parts.
**Knowledge is time consuming, exhausting and costly for a trained Tech.**
How old are the print heads?(dot count,age). If you let these print heads go too long they will short and fry circuit boards. If beyond warranty stage, I would tell customer print heads need to be replaced before installing new circuit boards. It usually fries the main controller. If you don't change the heads first, you will fry the new board. This will lead you to believe that your troubleshooting is incorrect. Been here a few times.
I finally understand why Carriage PCB fuse (FU101) Blows.
after many time immediately head clean, head print was damaged and i think drain current from 3.3 rail volt.
after that first fuse on circuit blows (exist on carriage PCB). my both head PCB death and can`t detect by any printer.
I replace them with 2 old head and printer get ONLINE.
after buy two new head,i say my printer was repaired or not.
a notice: dead head on this situation will be check able by multi-meter. on attache picture, if head was dead blue mark pinout in Diode test mode at both side show some volt, but healthy head depending is left or right just one side show volt.
thanks eUuGW1B.jpg
Re: IPF 9100 Multisensor error
my head is old but dead and can`t say how much is working.
very thanks for your guidance, i use your tips.
Last edited by xsaver; 10-06-2015 at 01:56 AM.
A simple new question.
I check some other element on carriage PCB broad.
i found a fuse (FU302) that was actually resistor with 501 code, that means must have 500 ohm,
but with multi-meter this resistor is short circuit with approximate 0 ohm.
is this another fault ?
ODxVXHf.jpg
bigger picture
QVA5xO3.jpg
Last edited by xsaver; 10-06-2015 at 01:55 AM.
FU302 is a fuse....it should be a short if ok. A resistor won't say 501 on it...rated with coloured bands. Measuring while component still on board means nothing. As soon as you put you voltmeter across it, you have just put a huge resistor in parallel(internal resistance of meter)
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