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  1. #11
    Senior Tech 250+ Posts
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    Re: Plastic vs Metal Swing plates in 42xx and 43xx series.

    Yup! Know what you mean. While I'm there doing a swing plate, I also re-pad the tray 2 solenoid & clean the exit bin sensor flags of the "noise reduction pads" HP just HAD to put in this printer. The last tray 2 solenoid I did, I had the printer on the floor on it's side, using screw removal bits to get the f***ing screw out! Using the screw removal bits and a flat head screwdriver, using another screwdrivers handle as a hammer.........ridiculous!


    HEADS UP ALL!!! I just downloaded a support document from HP pertaining to the fuser drive gears (swingplate) for the P4xxx/M600 series gear replacement kit. Keep an eye out!


  2. #12
    Service Manager 1,000+ Posts theengel's Avatar
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    Re: Plastic vs Metal Swing plates in 42xx and 43xx series.

    Speaking of stubborn screws, these things work like an effortless charm.

    https://www.amazon.com/Vampire-Profe...KPM7W8SY53RVJB

    Wouldn't help you on that top swingplate screw, but it does fine on the solenoid screw.


  3. #13
    Field Supervisor 500+ Posts
    Plastic vs Metal Swing plates in 42xx and 43xx series.


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    Re: Plastic vs Metal Swing plates in 42xx and 43xx series.

    Yes they are the pliers I was talking about. Only difference is the one I have has green handles but everything is the same.

    Good idea about removing the pads on paper feed solenoid & exit flag when it is apart.


  4. #14
    Senior Tech 100+ Posts JLSam's Avatar
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    Re: Plastic vs Metal Swing plates in 42xx and 43xx series.

    Quote Originally Posted by theengel View Post
    Every tech has his ways. Some techs will only use OEM. Some find the path of least resistance. Some look for the cheapest, while some look for value. Some listen to the customer. Some ignore the customer. Some are just lazy tweakers, and are really between jobs.

    For the most part (except for the tweakers), one way isn't necessarily BETTER than another way. After a few years of experience, you find what works for you. If you find a way that works better, then you modify.

    The black plastic gears on these wear out. You can do a quick replacement where it really only takes about 10 minutes to replace that gear, and the machine will work fine. If the white gear behind it is worn, then the noise doesn't go away, and you have a 45 minute job instead of a ten minute job (or, an hour and a half if it's your first time). If you use the metal gear instead of the black plastic, then the next part to wear will definitely be the white gear. You'll never get away with doing a 10 minute replacement, because the metal gear will never wear.

    In my opinion, if you have a part like that, one that wears predictably, strengthening it often means wearing (or breaking) another part. So I, personally, stick with the OEM. But someone else might see it another way. It's not a matter of who is wrong or right, but rather it's what works best for that technician.

    Also--you're putting too much thought into this. Both methods work. It's probably six for one, half a dozen for the other.
    Thank you for your input. I was pondering about that as well, something else will always wear out if you strengthen one part over the other.

    Again thank you for your input. OEM it is for me!


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