Plastic vs Metal Swing plates in 42xx and 43xx series.

[JLSam]

So look, I have been in the Copier/Printer industry for about close to three years. I have repaired what must feel like hundreds of hp printers. Of course, many of them include replacing the Fuser Swing Plate Assembly.

Now look, we ALWAYS buy OEM for kits, and assemblies, but a friend of mine brought it to my attention that it's better to use Metal Swing plates. I went online and i saw many conflicting pieces of advice. So when in doubt, ask the community!

So my question is this. Have you repaired and replaced a 42xx/43xx printer with a metal swing plate? If so, is there an increase of noise? And when you returned, how was the condition of the machine after months of use?

Thank you!

[jnfourteensix]

I've replaced dozens of these fuser drive (metal) swing plates, which by the way, with my Makita power drill, have managed to cut the time down to 15-20 minutes. (At first was about 2 hours and would only recommend it be done in the shop). I may have gone back to replace 1 or 2 of these maybe about a few years later and I think it was only because of the extreme high usage of the customer.

Re: noise level after replacement. I notice though that it is best to replace the fuser unit together with the swing plate assembly only because that lower right pressure bushing may be worn down causing a bind and drag in the drive. I think I did hear an increase in noise on those machines that we did not replace the fuser unit at the same time.



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[blackcat4866]

I don't think that I've ever seen a plastic swing plate. =^..^=

[theengel]

I've never seen a plastic one either. I thought​ I was using OEM, and they've all been metal.

[Wild Bill]

I think he's referring to a modification that Metro fuser created. Instead of the black plastic fuser drive gear they made it out of metal and it also has a bearing. I think for the most part if I see that black gear going out or heavy wear I replace the wholer swing plate assy with OEM. I never saw the need to buy that gear. Its really the white one on the inside that goes out.

[theengel]

I've replaced the dark plastic gear many times way back when--that often was all that was needed. After having had to reopen everything to get at the white gear, I started just replacing the whole assembly.

No--I wouldn't touch those metal gears. That seems like an invitation for trouble.

[JLSam]

You see? All of you are giving me conflicting pieces of advice. Sigh...

For now I'll stick with OEM, with the black plastic gears. Thank you very much for your responses.

[theengel]

Every tech has his ways. Some techs will only use OEM. Some find the path of least resistance. Some look for the cheapest, while some look for value. Some listen to the customer. Some ignore the customer. Some are just lazy tweakers, and are really between jobs.

For the most part (except for the tweakers), one way isn't necessarily BETTER than another way. After a few years of experience, you find what works for you. If you find a way that works better, then you modify.

The black plastic gears on these wear out. You can do a quick replacement where it really only takes about 10 minutes to replace that gear, and the machine will work fine. If the white gear behind it is worn, then the noise doesn't go away, and you have a 45 minute job instead of a ten minute job (or, an hour and a half if it's your first time). If you use the metal gear instead of the black plastic, then the next part to wear will definitely be the white gear. You'll never get away with doing a 10 minute replacement, because the metal gear will never wear.

In my opinion, if you have a part like that, one that wears predictably, strengthening it often means wearing (or breaking) another part. So I, personally, stick with the OEM. But someone else might see it another way. It's not a matter of who is wrong or right, but rather it's what works best for that technician.

Also--you're putting too much thought into this. Both methods work. It's probably six for one, half a dozen for the other.

[Lance15]

OEM full replacement. Half an hour unless the plate's screws are so friggin' tight.

[copyman]

Ah yes those 3 friggin tight screws holding swing plate assembly to frame. Usually the top one that gives me trouble. I purposely bought these pliers with grip teeth to grab head of screw to loosen. If that don't work then I put a flat blade screwdriver on edge of screw and hit with a hammer until loose. Customer kind of looks at you funny when you are hammering their printer