Minolta cspro Ep/need used parts or machine

[KWATL]

I am working on a Minolta 5000 machine giving me headaches.
I need a developing unit and "A" board from Minolta cs pro ep 5000 machine. Can't find a used machine or parts anywhere. Does anybody in the Atlanta area have one?

Thanks

[Cantechman]

	Quote:			Originally Posted by KWATL
	I am working on a Minolta 5000 machine giving me headaches. I need a developing unit and "A" board from Minolta cs pro ep 5000 machine. Can't find a used machine or parts anywhere. Does anybody in the Atlanta area have one? Thanks

I don't have any parts but I do have a lot of experience on those machines. What kind of problems are you having?

[KWATL]

	Quote:			Originally Posted by Cantechman
	I don't have any parts but I do have a lot of experience on those machines. What kind of problems are you having?

Hey Cantechman. This machine has about about 925,000 copies on it. I tried to get the customer to just up grade the machine..and they know they need to but just dont have the money to do it right now. So with an upgrade in the near future, I didn't want to put alot of money into brand new expensive parts. There are two problems I'm having with the machine. The first issue is the C0072 code with the sub hopper motor pops up quiet often. With this code the machine will run and run and run like its trying to tone up but never really tones up. Then all of a sudden the machine with starts working right again for ...oh who knows?? Few days.. few weeks you pick. I have changed the starter.. changed toner sensor and changed the sub hopper motor. It seems to work fine in adding toner after I do a starter change and F8 until the machine needs toner again..most of the time. So I thought it might be the main board not telling the machine to add toner properly. But here is my other problem.. and this might be the reason for the toner adding problem.. I'm not sure yet. The drum has been in the machine for a long time.. So I thought I would change the drum to see if that fixed the problem.. plus the drum had a place about 2 to 3 inches from the rear where the coating had been scratched all the way around the drum.. I think maybe from a ST housing assembly guide up too far. But when I put a new drum into the machine... it bindes up and hesitates when making copies. Drum spins fine when the developing unit not spinning at the same time. I pulled the drum out and the drum has the buffed marks from developer riding too close to the drum. I try another new drum.. same thing. I put the old drum back in.. no hesitation when making copies. The old drum had pretty good CQ for the age and copies on it.. but I can't replace it with another drum due to the hesitation factor and then blurry copies. I thought maybe the developer bushings and spacers need to be replaced but its not buffing the old drum when i put it back in the machine. I know the developer units are only good for what 600 to 750k? But why is it only buff when the new drums are put into the machine only? So is it the old drum causing the machine to not add toner properly with the ending result of the malfunction code? Or is it a main board wigging out causing the issue and the drum hesitation is just a totally different problem? Holy crap why do customers have to be so cheap!!

[Cantechman]

You have a lot going on there. It may be all related. Your C0072 error , is your toner bottle actually turning? Jig the door and try to add toner in the user mode. You might want to take the back of the hopper off, where the toner bottle hopper motor is, to make sure the toner bottle home position sensor is clean. What might be happening is that the machine is adding to much toner causing an overtoning condition, which might be causing too much toner buildup on your mag roller. If you remove the drum, do you have an extra amount of toner built up on the mag roller? If not chack your dev unit drive gears. There has to be something binding, like you said it spins when its out of the machine. Check your lower corona assy to make sure its not touching the drum. This is from the manual:

C0072

Step Check Item Result Action

1.
Does M9 turn?
Set the data of PWB-A (IC5A) APA2 to
“0.”
YES
Change PWB-A.

2.
Perform the “Controller Board Check.”
Is malfunction code ”C0332” dis
YES Change PWB-A.
displayed?
NO Change M9.

Sub Hopper Toner Empty Detection Control

D

A toner-empty condition in the Sub Hopper is detected by the magnet fitted to the
Sub Hopper Toner Empty Detecting Lever and Sub Hopper Toner Empty Switch
S106.

D

The Sub Hopper Toner Empty Detecting Lever rides on the eccentric cam fitted to
the rear of the Sub Hopper Toner Agitating Lever. It is moved up and down as the
eccentric cam is turned by the drive transmitted from Main Drive Motor M1.

[cobiray]

Sometimes, for customers on maintenance in this situation we get them a loaner for the short term to "keep them going" until they can get a new machine. If they aren't on maintenance (please tell me you don't have a 12 year old machine on maintenance) we might rent them a machine for a few months. Our going rate is about $100 a month for what ever the monthly rated volume is plus overage. Toner and maintenance is included. We've also been doing this for new clients who can't get financed for a new machine. If that's not an option and you trust that they will get a machine from you and not take advantage of any kindness you might show, you might get them a loaner on the house.

[KWATL]

	Quote:			Originally Posted by Cantechman
	You have a lot going on there. It may be all related. Your C0072 error , is your toner bottle actually turning? Jig the door and try to add toner in the user mode. You might want to take the back of the hopper off, where the toner bottle hopper motor is, to make sure the toner bottle home position sensor is clean. What might be happening is that the machine is adding to much toner causing an overtoning condition, which might be causing too much toner buildup on your mag roller. If you remove the drum, do you have an extra amount of toner built up on the mag roller? If not chack your dev unit drive gears. There has to be something binding, like you said it spins when its out of the machine. Check your lower corona assy to make sure its not touching the drum. This is from the manual: C0072 Step Check Item Result Action 1. Does M9 turn? Set the data of PWB-A (IC5A) APA2 to “0.” YES Change PWB-A. 2. Perform the “Controller Board Check.” Is malfunction code ”C0332” dis YES Change PWB-A. displayed? NO Change M9. Sub Hopper Toner Empty Detection Control D A toner-empty condition in the Sub Hopper is detected by the magnet fitted to the Sub Hopper Toner Empty Detecting Lever and Sub Hopper Toner Empty Switch S106. D The Sub Hopper Toner Empty Detecting Lever rides on the eccentric cam fitted to the rear of the Sub Hopper Toner Agitating Lever. It is moved up and down as the eccentric cam is turned by the drive transmitted from Main Drive Motor M1.

Actually.. I checked with the other guys that went out on the call before me.. and they said that when it gets into the starving for toner phase.. they would do a developer change and the machine would add toner like it is suppose to until the toner bottle is empty again. They would even run the machine after a developer change until the toner bottle would turn from time to time making sure all the motors and sensors were working properly. Now the hesitation only happens when a new drum is installed. No over toning is occuring in the machine. With the new drum in the machine.. the developer on the mag roller is touching the drum to much on the rear end of the drum only. The front side of the mag roller isnt buffing the drum. But let me say again its only buffing on the new drums not on the old drum. I put the old drum back in and the hesitation stops. Why does it only do it with new drums? Seems to me it should be doing it to any drum .. new or used.

[cobiray]

If the drum is getting buffed on one end one of two things is probably wrong. Either the doctor blade gap needs adjusted smaller, or the drum collar on the end of the mag roller needs replaced.

As far as the binding it could be a few things with the new drum. If it's not an OEM drum the tolerances could be a little off. The drive flang at the rear, the set pin at the front or even the over all drum diameter may be a little big. I've seen this with some Katun drums on the analog machines.

If it was my account, I would try to do them a solid and get them a loaner machine for a short term fix. It will save you both headaches and money, and you look like the good guy.

[Cantechman]

Yeah I forgot about asking if it was a OEM drum. Originals are all we use and it could be slightly different in size from OEM and aftermarket. It is a tough problem you have there. Sometimes you have to convince customers that another machine is the way to go.