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  1. #41
    RTFM!! 5,000+ Posts allan's Avatar
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    Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

    A good exercise would be to redo your print and scan area adjustments, dont know if it would do you any good but your borders and sizes would be good. Look in you manual under adjustments and settings then service mode and machine.

    I agree with BC that the is something going off between the registration and the fuser.

  2. #42
    Service Manager 1,000+ Posts
    "Rebuilding" a C203


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    Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

    First, this is the same is pretty much the same engine as the c252, right?

    Quote Originally Posted by Bubblesquah View Post
    Ok, it is all done. I forgot how nice this thing can actually print.

    Here is another question - something that I've noticed over the years, did not just start happening. Pages of print are "twisted" relative to the actual paper by about 1mm on 2 edges of an 11x17 page. I.e. if I'm holding a page where I've printed a solid block of color:

    - at the top, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is a consistent 8mm all the way across.
    - at the bottom, the distance between the edge of the paper and where the color starts is 6mm at one corner and about 6.8mm at the opposite corner.

    The sides are the same - one side is even all the way across, the other side is off by almost 1mm.

    I never notice this unless I am cutting. Is there some way to adjust this?
    8mm seems like a lot--should it not be closer to 4mm?
    Lead edge shouldn't be over 7mm, check your Lead Edge Erase Adjustment setting.
    I would ensure that the fuser is set correctly along with the conveyance section rollers.
    In agreement with everyone else; I believe the setting you want to pay special attention to is the "Paper Feed Direction Adj" in Machine in Service Mode.

    To be honest though, this is a consistent issue with Konica machines--.5-1mm deviance on 11x17/12x18's is to be expected. Furthermore, you would go mad fine tuning every setting per paper type and even every ream of paper--even on high quality papers, the cuts are rarely exactly the same case-to-case or even ream-to-ream.

    Quote Originally Posted by subaro View Post
    But unable to find anything about the laser slit glasses. I suspect this is on the PH assembly? Would you mind describing exactly what to do with this? [ from the owner of the post on one of his replys ]

    I think this question was not answered in detail. It is a good question as the results of doing it properly pays dividend.

    Habik did make some pics on an earlier thread here, but the actual process is not really explained. when i use to work on the c350, i found just cleaning with the rod and cleaning paper provided was not enough. maybe km techs can provide their procedures. correct me if i am wrong in saying that the led need extra cleaning other that the tool and pad provided with the machine.
    The floor is open. speak

    With the IUs out you can actually half-ass blow off/vacuum the glass prior to using the pad (saves pads) then I use an old pad first with a drop or two of alcohol (if I deem in necessary) and use a screw driver on top of the pad to add a little pressure (if you somehow break/scratch the glass don't blame me). Switch jigs and clean with a new/near new pad to clean off any residue.

    Edit: I typed all that and it doesn't look like that method works with these models--only on models that you can directly see the glass from taking the IU out.


    There are of course caveats to taking out the PH, but sometimes it is necessary. I once had one of those pads screw up completely and it got adhesive all over the Magenta glass (c650). I was forced to take the PH out and clean it by hand--probably a good thing seeing how there was debris build up along the sizes of the glass.

  3. #43
    Service Manager 1,000+ Posts
    "Rebuilding" a C203

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    Re: "Rebuilding" a C203

    Quote Originally Posted by Synaux View Post
    First, this is the same is pretty much the same engine as the c252, right?



    8mm seems like a lot--should it not be closer to 4mm?
    Lead edge shouldn't be over 7mm, check your Lead Edge Erase Adjustment setting.
    I would ensure that the fuser is set correctly along with the conveyance section rollers.
    In agreement with everyone else; I believe the setting you want to pay special attention to is the "Paper Feed Direction Adj" in Machine in Service Mode.

    To be honest though, this is a consistent issue with Konica machines--.5-1mm deviance on 11x17/12x18's is to be expected. Furthermore, you would go mad fine tuning every setting per paper type and even every ream of paper--even on high quality papers, the cuts are rarely exactly the same case-to-case or even ream-to-ream.




    With the IUs out you can actually half-ass blow off/vacuum the glass prior to using the pad (saves pads) then I use an old pad first with a drop or two of alcohol (if I deem in necessary) and use a screw driver on top of the pad to add a little pressure (if you somehow break/scratch the glass don't blame me). Switch jigs and clean with a new/near new pad to clean off any residue.

    Edit: I typed all that and it doesn't look like that method works with these models--only on models that you can directly see the glass from taking the IU out.


    There are of course caveats to taking out the PH, but sometimes it is necessary. I once had one of those pads screw up completely and it got adhesive all over the Magenta glass (c650). I was forced to take the PH out and clean it by hand--probably a good thing seeing how there was debris build up along the sizes of the glass.
    C650 PH Unit is a piece of piss to take out in comparison with C353 series. Plus you have to lift the opening on each of the print head and hold it steady then screwdriver on top ... If they really need quality I rather pull it out completely and give it proper clean. Then of course adjust the Color Registration to 0 0 0 after stabilisation reset -+1 but so far had it only once. Customer didn't want to spent money on Fiery but wanted to print like with one. Nuts.




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