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Should I assume the Taskalfa 3010i and the Copystar 3010i firmware is the same?
I have a Taskalfa 3010i that jams right at the registration roller and the reg. clutch never comes on. It does come on when you cycle the machine after closing right door.
Sensor, drive pack, board or just something simpler?
It is a reasonable expectation that the firmware remains the same across the badge void. But don't expect it to fix this sort of problem.
Personally, I'm leaning towards the registration sensor, that would trigger the registration clutch to come on. The fact that the clutch comes on during initialization indicates that it's capable of coming on, and the driver circuitry is functioning. I think I would spend my time testing the registration sensor in service mode, or by reading voltages from the sensor itself at the engine board. The firmware probably won't do any harm. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
It turned out to be the RS sensor. I had sprayed a electrical contact cleaner in the opening where the flag is thinking the sensor was behind it, but it was setup so the flag ran down to the right side where the actual sensor was. It was covered in toner.
Congratulations.
Keep in mind though that electrical contact cleaner mixed with toner makes a sticky black mud, that could have glued itself to your photosensor. Better choices might be air, or a cylindrical brush (like an eyelash wand) for mascara (but without the actual mascara).
=^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
I agree never spray a sensor. The chemicals can make nice clear plastic like the diode moulding and lenses turn white.
I entirely agree, especially regarding WD-40. If you're going to use it at all, spray it on the towel, or use non-aerosol. It attacks most plastics leaving a sticky melted mess.Originally Posted by allan
A co-worker thought it would be funny to spray my flashlight lens with WD-40. It went entirely opaque/white, and the only thing left to do was throw it away. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Alcohol and air, or just air.
I cleaned it off with a brush first. The cleaner we use is called blow off and dries as fast as alcohol and leaves no residue and has never clouded a sensor on me.
I have two fitch/paint brushes in my tool case, one for toner and one for dust.
I always clean the dust paint brush with a chucks cloth before cleaning out flag sensors.
I've never used any thing esle to clean sensors except a clean damp cloth; provided I can get access to them.
Inauguration to the "AI cancel-culture" fraternity 1997...
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