Kyoceramita Km4035 Problems

[Elridge]

Kyoceramita KM4035 takes 120sec to come to ready. It should only take 25sec from a cold start. If the machine is turned ON, then immediately turned OFF then ON again, it comes to ready within 25sec, from a cold start. I used a power supply from a working KM3035 in the KM4035, now the KM3035 is having the exact fuser problem as the KM4035. Sometimes there will be a double image as though the heat roller does not heat up good enough to melt the toner. My heat roller is not worn.

I removed the fuser cover and turned the machine on. I saw that both lamps do turn on. One thing I noticed was both lamps were turning on and off for the entire 120sec until the machine came to ready. Is this normal for the lamps to do this. I would think that both lamps would be on for the full 25sec, then go out once the machine comes to ready. When testing the continuity on the thermistors, a good one should read infinity and I should get continuity across a bad one. From what I can remember that is the correct way to test thermistors. I'm getting continuity across both of my thermistors.

Is it normal for the machine to power off then on once the voltage is checked across the main board YC1 pin 1? Once the leads are connected it powers off, when the leads are disconnected the machine power back on.


I hope this isn’t too much to ask for, but If someone has a KM4035 can you measure the voltage on the Main Board across YC1 pin 8? I am getting a voltage that starts at 145mv and climbs to 196mv. It's the HEATER ON and it should read 0 to 5 VDC. Also the on the Power Supply YC2 pin 1. It's also the HEATER ON and should read 0 to 5 VDC, but I'm getting 195mv then it drops off then it goes back to 195mv and drops off again. It does this continuously.

Thanks for your assistance.

[robscopyr]

You are incorrect about how to test a thermistor; you should have some sort of reading @ the meter when testing a good thermistor, and if you place your thumb on it while testing the resistance should go down, a bad thermistor will not change as heat is applied to the surface. I would try repacing the thermistors, or swapping out the fuser to see if that fixes the problem.

[blackcat4866]

Are you sure that this is a fuser issue?

Something as simple as a toner-low condition could cause the machine to take longer to reach "Ready". =^..^=

[Elridge]

With all due respect, I have a manual and have made a number of checks and tests. I only use this type of a forum whenever I run into a strange problem.
It's true that a toner problem can cause a machine to take longer than normal to come to ready. However, this does not same to be the problem this time. If this was a toner problem you would usaully hear the machine trying to add toner. After the machine has come to ready and powered off for about 10mins. It always goes through the same process of taking 120sec to come to ready, everytime. I had a working KM3035 and swapped the power supply and now the exact same problem that the KM4035 is having I'm experiencing it with the KM3035. The reason why it's a concern is because ocassionally I will get double image and for my customer, this is not acceptable. Unfortunately I do not have another KM30,40,5035 to compare checks and tests.

[tclar]

I dont know about your exact problem but swap the fuser as stated earlier. I had a problem with a km5035 when the motors kept running long after the copying was finished and upgrading the firmware sorted it. So maybe you could also try that.

[Setright]

As I recall from working on these machines (2 years ago now) the fuser lamps would flicker during the entire warm up period, so something doesn't sound right.

If the machine is trying to add toner you should be able to hear the solenoid click.

BE AWARE, there a some OEM machines and similar model types that use a toner cartridge that LOOKS like the same one, but they do have different size/type gears at the rear, meaning toner filling will not function correctly. It's too long ago for me to recall the toner part number (TK75H ???) accurately, but I would suggest you check that the toner cartridge is the correct one for that specific model.

[copyaction]

Wasn't there a sim for fuser type on these after a newer style was released?

[Setright]

Apart from a fast wearing surface on the heat roller and collapsing bearings, I don't recall any other intial weaknesses. Those were both fixed.

[robscopyr]

See the attachment. And... did you test the thermistor? or swap the fuser yet? I notice that you have been changing out boards, but not the component that you think the problem is originating from.

[vikingmita]

time is money, so i'd do this (unless you absolutely want to spend time to really get to the bottom of it):
1. swap fuser
2. fw
3. swap engine board (5035 and 4035 is the same, 3035 different)

here i assume that you already changed the power board. not that i think that the power board is the culprit here. my guess is engine board, and secoundary new fw. (but fw comes first b/c is't a whole lot easier than ripping out the engine and split your nails doing it)