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  1. #1
    Field Supervisor 500+ Posts
    Removing black drum KMC3225


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    Removing black drum KMC3225

    Can someone please tell me how to get to the black drum? Intravia tells me to remove all toners, then cover over plug, then the 5 screws holding the black cover on, but for some reason I can't get the cover to come loose, there is real tension against it and I'm afraid I will break it. I also took out the fuser unit, but don't know if that front cover has to be removed before I attempt to remove the transfer belt unit. Unfortunately we don't do much Kyocera work so I don't have a service manual on this. Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Re: Removing black drum KMC3225

    After you take out the 5 screws, there are 2 gray latches that have to be released at about the center of each side. But before that, you'll have to pop out the cover above the waste bottle and disconnect the connector. You will also have to at least partially remove the transfer belt to remove the drum.

  3. #3
    Master Of The Obvious 10,000+ Posts
    Removing black drum KMC3225

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    Re: Removing black drum KMC3225

    Yup.
    1) Open left door, remove front door strap cover and strap.
    2) Remove fuser, two screws
    3) Unplug, then remove transfer belt assembly. Lift to get it started, then pull left. It does clear the door and finisher if you're careful
    4) Remove 4 toner cartridges and waste toner bottle
    5) Remove toner hopper, 1 screw on access door, unplug connector, 5 screws, two gray release levers one at each end.
    6) Unplug black drum unit, remove shoulder screw to release, pull forward to remove.

    If you still can't get it out, occasionally there has been some arcing between the end of the drum shaft through to the drum motor shaft (drum ground). If it's truly stuck this is what you need to do:

    7) remove the remaining drum and developing units.
    8) remove the plastic C-clip on the front of the drum unit and ball bearing.
    9) slide the drum unit forward ~3mm to release the roll pin that is through the drum shaft from the slot in the back of the drum.
    10) with flashlight and hemostats remove roll pin from drum shaft.
    11) carefully slide the remaining drum unit parts out, leaving the drum shaft attached. Remember the drum is now loose, and can drop out.
    12) lubricate the coupler end of the drum shaft with light oil and gently work it back and forth until you get it out.

    The first time I did this I ordered a spare drum unit, in case it was unusable, But most of the time, if you do this carefully, the drum unit is intact and can be re-assembled and re-used. You can use a rat-tailed file to remove any arcing from inside the drum shaft, and a flat jewelers file on the drum shaft itself. Do not lubricate the drum drive coupler with conductive grease. It will provide a poor drum ground, and cause blank bands in your copies and prints. If lubrication is required use light oil only.

    This is a great time to do some vacuuming and cleaning. Use a stretch-and-dust to get down into the laser slit glasses. Seat all the developing units then all the drum units. You'll notice that each drum unit secures the developing unit of the same color. Plug in all eight connectors. Fitting the toner hopper is a bit tricky. It fits over all the waste nozzles, then latch the left, then the right. It doesn't seem to work the other way.

    Be careful inserting the transfer belt assembly onto it's rails. It you get too rough with it you can dislodge one of the transfer contact springs on the rear frame. You won't discover that you've done it until your all finished. Then you'll spend the next three hours stripping the back down to the transfer high voltage unit, re-installing the spring if you can still find it, then re-assembling. Ask me. I've done it.

    Don't overtighten the self-tapping fuser screws. They strip easily. It happens often enough that I carry those frame pieces in carstock. Preventatively you can use non-self-tapping screws, and save yourself a whole lot of trouble in the future.

    That's probably way more than you wanted to know, but there it is. =^..^=
    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
    3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
    4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
    5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.

    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

  4. #4
    Senior Tech 100+ Posts
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    Re: Removing black drum KMC3225

    Aside from what everyone else has said. Make sure you're taking out the right 5 screws. It can be easy to look without a manual and miss the two bottom screws.

    To get to the two bottom screws you have to lift up the yellow and magenta toner cart holders and look through the holes at the bottom. You'll see the screws there.

  5. #5
    Field Supervisor 500+ Posts
    Removing black drum KMC3225


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    Re: Removing black drum KMC3225

    Quote Originally Posted by ES-OGT View Post
    Aside from what everyone else has said. Make sure you're taking out the right 5 screws. It can be easy to look without a manual and miss the two bottom screws.

    To get to the two bottom screws you have to lift up the yellow and magenta toner cart holders and look through the holes at the bottom. You'll see the screws there.
    Thank you so much, that is exactly what I was doing wrong!

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