My first suggestion to you, Captain Howdy, is to end your title in some other word than "Print". The website understands the title " ... print" to mean that you want a Printable View, without any of those convenient links that allow us respond to your question. That is why noone has responded.
I'm going to zoom past your little rant about having to do maintenance. There's not a lot that I can do about that, one way or the other. Let's see, we'll pick it up here:
I have at the store I work at a Ricoh SP C811DN printer. http://www.ricoh-usa.com/products/do...s/spc811dn.pdf
This brings me to my new issue now, which is actually where I am stuck at.
If you look at the next couple of photos you can see the tag paper we use at my store and have used for the last 5 years without issue.
In the top of this photo you can see how the tags should look, we have always been able to get the printer to print to very edge of the page without any issues, but if you look the bottom tag you can clearly see how the left edge of the tag refuses to print all of the way over. This is happening to all of my paper but most items use a border and you don't notice it but with my tags it is creating an issue. I did find in the unit that there was an option for edge printing and it was set to off but turning it on made no difference to any of my prints.
Attachment 27462
Now here is a better photo of the actual full tag sheet that we use when we print tags. (you can kinda see the failed left edge printing)
Attachment 27463
And here is how we have always loaded the paper into the bypass tray of the unit. (the long blank edge leads into the printer)
Attachment 27464
I have tried looking in the regular manual and it shows where there is an option under color registration to run an adjustment to fix the edges of the unit, but I do not have an adjust option under Color registration within the printer. I do not know if it is something removed by the reset or a possible firmware issue.
I should point out, right about here that no laser based printer or copier ever printed completely to the edge of a piece of paper. Some of the reasons are:
1) The paper would tend to cling to the drum and wrap in the cleaning unit.
2) The paper would tend to cling to the heat roller and wrap around it, or make nice accordians out of your prints.
3) Paper tends to curl most at the ends, and to avoid seeing areas of poor transfer due to flip, those areas are blanked out. Flip is what happens when a somewhat curly piece of paper leaves the drum. since it is curled away from the drum surface, the last 3mm of paper pull away before it can be transferred. You can tell me that it was never like this, and I won't believe you.
If you really want a piece of paper imaged right to the edge, you'll need slightly oversized paper (called full bleed 12x18 if you'd like a resulting 11x17 print), then trim it down to remove the voids.
On some machines,
techs that don't mind shooting themselves in the foot, can reduce the size of these voids. Inevitably though, when doing images with heavy fill at the leading edge, you'll get:
1) drum wraps
2) fuser wraps and accordians
3) see areas of poor transfer at the trailing edges.
Let's see what else:
I am kinda upset with the service company and I would prefer not to deal with them anymore.
If anyone has any ideas or advice that I could look into for the printer that would be great. I can try just about anything at this point my boss tells me.
Now it's very possible that doing such a radical reset on the machine has deleted the proper adjustments for the image registration, voids, and image size. I'd have to say that it's likely that those things will have to be re-adjusted to bring it back within machine specs. Typically that's 3mm void at the leading and trail edges, 2mm at the side voids (front and rear). They never were 0mm, not ever. These adjustments are not difficult to do, but are time consuming. There are at least a dozen such adjustments that have to be done in a specific order.
Another contributing factor to color registration and image registration are the actual weight of the media. "Tag" means nothing to me. The most universal measure for paper weight is Grams/Square Meter, or GSM, or G/M2. If you want to talk about a specific media start there. Additionally, I'm going to suggest that if you are printing pre-perforated cardstock (a headache, for sure) you'll have the best success feeding it LTR-R, or the long way in layman's terms.
You know, it would be nice to get training on every machine a technician works on, but in real life that just doesn't happen. The best techs teach themselves the majority of what needs doing, usually directly from a service manual, and if they're really lucky some good advice from a co-worker. As technicians, we often get comments on how inept we must be if we have to read a manual. I usually respond with: This manual is 2354 pages long. I work on 100+ models of equipment, each with a manual just like this one. That would certainly be a lot of memorization wouldn't it? And if somehow I could memorize all that, there wouldn't be any processing room left.
I realize this has been a long post but I thank you for your time reading it.
Captain
Have I addressed some of your concerns? =^..^=
Howdy Howdy All!
Originally Posted by blackcat4866
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