Does anyone here know about gas dryers?

[blackcat4866]

I've got a Whirlpool LGR4634EQ3 that usually lights for the first few minutes in low heat mode, then stays cold with the drum turning. If I select high temperature mode it seems to stay lit for up to 1/2 hour then goes cold. In timed dry it will also stay lit for about 1/2 hour then go cold

I've ruled out the following items:
igniter coil: lights up whenever power is applied
gas coils: supplies gas during the initial part of the drying cycle
high temperature thermostat: non-resettable
thermal fuse: non-resettable
plugged exhaust: ductwork is clear. Good airflow at the exhaust.

None of these parts would be intermittent by my estimation. If they work from a cold start, they would conceivably continue to work.

Most likely causes:
cycling thermostat: shuts down the burner when the thermostat exceeds 160F, then resets at 90F (it's in the back, so it's somewhat inconvenient to check while live.) It's reasonably inexpensive, and high on my list of choices, so I've got it ordered.
flame sensor: shuts down the gas if the flame doesn't light.
timer: Somehow I don't think the timer would be intermittent though.

Do we have anyone with dryer experience? =^..^=

[Tonerbomb]

Yes BC I have some dryer experience as I was taught by Dad how to work on anything, but I did a quick Google for you :
Whirlpool Dryer Doesn't Heat - Model LGR4634EQ3 - Repair Parts - RepairClinic.com

http://www.partselect.com/Models/LGR4634EQ3/

[blackcat4866]

I did find the Repair Clinic website. That's how I got it apart without too much damage. =^..^=

[Lagonda]

We use a hydrogen powered gas drier and so far it hasn't given us any trouble in the last 4 billion years.



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[allan]

We use a hydrogen powered gas drier and so far it hasn't given us any trouble in the last 4 billion years.



329acad3-d75a-4246-a009-4854944eb808.jpg

Dont joke. I just constructed a HHO generator that work much better than expected. Some safty issuse conserns, because you can loose your facial hair and your hearing if something goes wrong. Also not easy to burn that stuff off without a bang!

But can power a gas generator! Next move its going on my car.


The energy crisis and power cost in ZA makes a electric dryer just to expensive to run.

[slimslob]

Normal operation for the dryer is to have the burner come on at the start. It should then stay on until the cycling thermostat reaches its set temperature. Without looking at a schematic I am only guessing that when the temperature drops below the low end of the cycling range, the cycling may key the gas solenoid directly or may key the timer to open the solenoid. One thing to check, when the burner shuts off, wait about 5 minutes and then open and close the dryer door and press the start button. If the burner comes back on, my guess would be the timer.

[blackcat4866]

We are currently using that hydrogen based dryer right now. It seems to be pretty reliable so far, just a little slower than the other variety.

Thanks slim. I did resist the timer only because of the warning message at Repair Clinic. Essentially it said "Most of the time it's not the timer, and we'll charge you a restocking fee if you'd like us to take it back."

I'll post back when I know something useful. :P
=^..^=

[harleyrider]

My boy has a electric one that was doing very similar thing.I replaced the thermistor for him and it works fine. His is electric but sounds like the same problem. It was a cheap part if I remember right.

[Tonerbomb]

Igniter works, Check
Gas valve works, check
Dryer comes to temp at first,check
fire doesn't come back on after cycling and drum cools down, check

I think I would look at the cycling thermostat.............

[blackcat4866]

OK, I know a little more now.

I installed the cycling thermostat today. The switching terminals closed to 0.1 ohms. The low temperature coil read 6990 ohms. The new part reads 0.1 ohms across the switched terminals, and 7500 ohms across the low temperature coil. Personally I think any differences in readings are insignificant/incidental. It's the temperature that it switches, then switches back that counts.

While I was in the back I also checked the thermal fuse (0.1 ohms), and the high temperature thermostat (38 ohms?! What?). I took my readings off the spade connectors. The terminals on the high temperature thermostat read 0.1 ohms. After a little wiggling, the spade connectors also read 0.1 ohms. There must have been some corrosion in the terminals. The change in temperature could conceivable also change the resistance in the connection. The thing I don't know, is the threshold at which the resistance across the high temperature thermostat is interpreted as open/closed.

Regardless, it still seems to be doing the same thing. After about 30 minutes the flame goes out. The igniter lights up about once a minute but it doesn't flame. According to Repair Clinic that points to the gas valve solenoids. Perhaps it magnetizes after so many minutes energized? So it's time for another order.

I guess we'll be using that hydrogen powered dryer for another week. =^..^=