Language help: How are these called?

[mrwho]

Thank you all for the tips and clarifications. And yes, some of you guessed it - I need it for my old 20-yo car, I'm adding some aftermarket stuff.

[Debs1964]

Sorry Debs, but you ain't using those in my workshop! They were invented by Lucas the Prince of Darkness and are guaranteed to corrode and cause voltage fluctuations. Solder joint and heat shrink only please.

I didn't say I use them (I use duct tape ) Mrwho just wanted an alternative

[allan]

the first time i encountered them, someone call it a chocolate block.

[theengel]

Some people strip with wire strippers, solder, and cover with electrical tape.

I strip with my teeth (kids lost the wire cutters when they were using them on playdough), wrap together (they used the soldering gun for a wood burner), and cover with scotch tape (I just flat-out gave up on keeping electrical tape.)

[bigwul]

Sorry Debs, but you ain't using those in my workshop! They were invented by Lucas the Prince of Darkness and are guaranteed to corrode and cause voltage fluctuations. Solder joint and heat shrink only please.

A great deal of people may well disagree with me here but....a properly executed crimp joint will be mechanically and electrically more reliable than a soldered joint. The key to an acceptable crimp joint is that it must be "gas tight" -- the metal of the wire and the crimp lug are pressed so intimately together that if it were the lid of food can, it would be an hermetic seal. To get the best joint, the crimp lug should be matched closely to the wire gauge: The stripped wire should just slip into the lug with minimal side-to-side play. The crimping tool is important as well, as the most inexpensive tools found in automotive supply stores tend to crush the crimp lug and not properly compress it around the wire. Unfortunately, industrial crimping tools can be quite expensive, costing hundreds of dollars apiece, and one may need several different tools for different sizes and styles of lugs and terminals.

Avoid cheap knock-off crimp lugs from China and other moderately disreputable places, especially if they are to be used in automotive or aviation applications. The brand-name lugs and terminals from western European and North American suppliers will cost more, but are worth it in the long run by avoiding joint failures later. Also the wire must not be twisted - this can result in a 60% weaker joint.

In fact - a badly soldered joint is often worse than a crimp - even a good joint that has not been 100% cleaned of flux residue is a joint waiting to fail.

P.S I would call the other connectors Chocolate Blocks.......

[mikadonovan]

a[/SIZE] properly executed crimp joint will be mechanically and electrically more reliable than a soldered joint..

I have found this NOT to be true, and I received my electronics repair training from a reputable organization, the US Navy. I will give you that crimps work OK in a pinch, and they are a hell of a lot quicker, but not better.

[slimslob]

A great deal of people may well disagree with me here but....a properly executed crimp joint will be mechanically and electrically more reliable than a soldered joint. The key to an acceptable crimp joint is that it must be "gas tight" -- the metal of the wire and the crimp lug are pressed so intimately together that if it were the lid of food can, it would be an hermetic seal. To get the best joint, the crimp lug should be matched closely to the wire gauge: The stripped wire should just slip into the lug with minimal side-to-side play. The crimping tool is important as well, as the most inexpensive tools found in automotive supply stores tend to crush the crimp lug and not properly compress it around the wire. Unfortunately, industrial crimping tools can be quite expensive, costing hundreds of dollars apiece, and one may need several different tools for different sizes and styles of lugs and terminals.

Avoid cheap knock-off crimp lugs from China and other moderately disreputable places, especially if they are to be used in automotive or aviation applications. The brand-name lugs and terminals from western European and North American suppliers will cost more, but are worth it in the long run by avoiding joint failures later. Also the wire must not be twisted - this can result in a 60% weaker joint.

In fact - a badly soldered joint is often worse than a crimp - even a good joint that has not been 100% cleaned of flux residue is a joint waiting to fail.

P.S I would call the other connectors Chocolate Blocks.......

I agree with you on this. The crimp tool pictured in Debs post is of the ratchet type. Instead of just flattening the barrel of the connector, it makes an indent into the barrel. The stamped tools that you see from places like Radio Shack are mostly worthless for permanent connections. For those who want the combination of the electrical conductivity of a good solder joint and the mechanical strength of a good crimp joint, use the uninsulated barrel connectors. Slide your heat shrink tube onto the wire prior to crimping, solder the joint after crimping and seal with the heat shrink tube. This is especially helpful for stranded wire. One other thing to consider with heat shrink tuber is the insulation factor. For AC applications, one layer of heat shrink might not provide ample insulation. The quality of barrel connectors can be judged by two things, the insulation and the thickness of the metal of the barrel.

[Iowatech]

Screw terminal - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Those thingys from Debs are sometimes used in automotive electrics around the seventies.........

Hans

They also can still be found in some of the larger shredders and folders too, at least the ones I still see.

[habik]

Chocolate .. As it used to be made of bakelite and could be broken to sections, like chocolate.
Or as Debs and others mentioned, terminal block/strip .



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[slimslob]

Chocolate .. As it used to be made of bakelite and could be broken to sections, like chocolate.
Or as Debs and others mentioned, terminal block/strip .



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For the ones with screw connections, they were also called barrier strips for the raised Bakelite tabs between the terminals.