MP 501 Clicking Noises

**david0161** · 05-18-2017

Have a customer that states their 501 has intermittent clicking noises from around the paper exit (where they point anyway) that can't be replicated. Anyone having issues with 501 noises?

Thanks!

**Imprestik** · 05-18-2017

Has to be the fusing unit, bearings possibly?

I have had to replace fusers on these devices well before their dud date and what a absolute bitch of a job it is as well

**Phil B.** · 05-18-2017

do they see dead people also?

kidding .. you sounds like a fuser.. unless there is something wrapped on the exit roller shafts.. slapping

**Oze** · 05-18-2017

Originally Posted by Imprestik

Has to be the fusing unit, bearings possibly?

I have had to replace fusers on these devices well before their dud date and what a absolute bitch of a job it is as well

Wait til you have to change the laser array

**david0161** · 06-08-2017

Originally Posted by Imprestik

Has to be the fusing unit, bearings possibly?

I have had to replace fusers on these devices well before their dud date and what a absolute bitch of a job it is as well

You weren't kidding......WTF is the trick to getting the fuser back in place? Removal was super easy and straightforward. I guarantee I was there for at least an hour after that looking like an idiot trying to get the new unit back in. The damn thing would always hit against something where the tabs wouldn't sit flush. Any tips for future replacement?

**Imprestik** · 06-20-2017

Originally Posted by david0161

You weren't kidding......WTF is the trick to getting the fuser back in place? Removal was super easy and straightforward. I guarantee I was there for at least an hour after that looking like an idiot trying to get the new unit back in. The damn thing would always hit against something where the tabs wouldn't sit flush. Any tips for future replacement?

LOL David the procedure is as follows

Once you remove the fuser, you then have to put all the covers back on and close it up.

Turn it on until it gives you a fuser error

Turn the device off, you will then notice the metal cams for the pressure roller rotate 180 degrees which then makes room for the fuser to sit in with no issue at all.

It caught me out big time on the first replacement, damn these machines are going to be a pain in the ass

Stupid rebadged Kyoceras

**david0161** · 06-20-2017

Originally Posted by Imprestik

LOL David the procedure is as follows

Once you remove the fuser, you then have to put all the covers back on and close it up.

Turn it on until it gives you a fuser error

Turn the device off, you will then notice the metal cams for the pressure roller rotate 180 degrees which then makes room for the fuser to sit in with no issue at all.

It caught me out big time on the first replacement, damn these machines are going to be a pain in the ass

Stupid rebadged Kyoceras

Thanks! Great info to know!

**Polarbear** · 06-21-2017

Originally Posted by Imprestik

LOL David the procedure is as follows

Once you remove the fuser, you then have to put all the covers back on and close it up.

Turn it on until it gives you a fuser error

Turn the device off, you will then notice the metal cams for the pressure roller rotate 180 degrees which then makes room for the fuser to sit in with no issue at all.

It caught me out big time on the first replacement, damn these machines are going to be a pain in the ass

Stupid rebadged Kyoceras

Imprestik I could not believe the procedure until I went and checked the manual - and then the TSB that explains what you advised!

Ricoh is really working backwards!

**Tecnicopia** · 07-22-2017

Originally Posted by Imprestik

LOL David the procedure is as follows

Once you remove the fuser, you then have to put all the covers back on and close it up.

Turn it on until it gives you a fuser error

Turn the device off, you will then notice the metal cams for the pressure roller rotate 180 degrees which then makes room for the fuser to sit in with no issue at all.

It caught me out big time on the first replacement, damn these machines are going to be a pain in the ass

Stupid rebadged Kyoceras

Kyocera line, on older kyocera you have to switch levers to envelope to install the fuser. Till the pressure is driven, that is the way to follow.

BTW i think this machine can have issues like all, but charge roller it's really easy to clean/change. When there are missfeed issues, just change pickup and feed, clean will not last too much.

If there are white lines on developer or have grey background because mixed original toner and compatible, i think you can vacuum the developer unit, reinstall it and do a developer initialitation, cause toner and developer must be in toner cartridge (bicomponent).

All this must sound strange to a NRG tech, and not to a multibrand that had worked Kyocera before.

Very different to a 161 or 5200, but not worse or better.

Sry about my english.

Enviado desde mi LG-K350 mediante Tapatalk

**slimslob** · 07-22-2017

Originally Posted by david0161

You weren't kidding......WTF is the trick to getting the fuser back in place? Removal was super easy and straightforward. I guarantee I was there for at least an hour after that looking like an idiot trying to get the new unit back in. The damn thing would always hit against something where the tabs wouldn't sit flush. Any tips for future replacement?

Cross your eyes, stick your tongue out and fart real loud. Actually just make sure both ends are all the way in before your start either of the screws. If I remember correctly, there is a raised plastic ring around the screw holes on the main frame. There are recesses on the fusing unit that have to fit those exactly otherwise they will hold one end or the other out about 1/16 inch.