Scotchbrite and then regap doctor blade to a tight 0.35mm on both ends. Marks don't come back.
Scotchbrite and then regap doctor blade to a tight 0.35mm on both ends. Marks don't come back.
Why do they call it common sense?
If it were common, wouldn't everyone have it?
Chalk another one up for the green pot scourer, but you have to pay the extra money for a quality 3M Scotchbrite. If you use metho with the cheap ones you find the dye runs and you end up with green hands.
At least 50% of IT is a solution looking for a problem.
Normally I use a piece of extra fine aluminium oxide cloth backed sandpaper.
Takes minimal effort and leaves a polished like finish because the grain is so fine.
The cloth backing makes it flexible and very hard wearing, even when wet.
*Also works well to clean snake skin oil rollers and bare metal cleaning rollers.
- Knowledge not shared, is eventually knowledge that becomes lost... like tears in the rain.
Fully qualified technician for Ricoh - Canon - Sharp - HP - Brother
Color is not 4 times harder... it's 65,000 times harder. They call it "TECH MODE" for a reason. I have manual's and firmware for ya, course... you are going to have to earn it.
Reading with interest all these suggestions, but one important thing got my curiosity that nobody mentions. Are you all talking of cleaning the roller stripped out, in which case you can be as harsh as you want, or, about cleaning the mag roller in situ, in which case you have to be ULTRA careful not to damage the end seals and not to run any liquid inside the dev unit ???
Mr. Clean brand Magic Eraser sponges, a couple drops of alcohol per wipe although I've heard water works well, too.
My brand new favorite, paraffin lamp oil. In the early days it was Dispersant, until it got really hard to get. Chemically I suspect that there isn't much of a difference.
It's the best thing I've found for loosening adhesive from metal, drums, plastic, (but not rubber: degrades the rubber). If you're going to clean a drum keep it out of contact with the blade until you're rinsed it with alcohol.
It works pretty good on developing rollers too. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
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