"DEVE HOME SENSOR ERROR" in display ??
I have tried to adjust the spring on the solonoid, New sensor, new toner/pcu/fuser .
Still have the above error ?
Any good idear.
Someone have firmware for this model ?
Thanks
"DEVE HOME SENSOR ERROR" in display ??
I have tried to adjust the spring on the solonoid, New sensor, new toner/pcu/fuser .
Still have the above error ?
Any good idear.
Someone have firmware for this model ?
Thanks
I can't be absolutely sure, but the 2160 looks an awful lot like a 3160 without the document feeder. My experience is on the CLX-3160FN/XAA.
In the service manual it says that the developer shift mechanism cannot be serviced by technicians in the field, and the only recourse is to replace the main drive assembly. The developer shift mechanism is not all that complicated, and I have disassembled and re-greased the cam system for engaging the developing drive. One of those machines actually worked after my attempt. The other three did not.
Of the remaining three, two got main drive assemblies under warranty. The remaining unit was out of warranty, and the customer decided that it wasn't worth it. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
I had my run ins with that machine... got a couple that gave me that error... One was almost brand new (had like 200 prints).
Blackcat (assuming your machines had same prob as mines) the problem is in the clutch that controls the engaging of the devs.
On all the machines i saw the problem was the clutch/solenoid that releases the shaft. (and yes looking at the mechanism with the machine powered, it does look alright...)
When we power the machine we can see the shaft rotating, activating 1 dev at a time (but it fails hitting the home position, and thats something hard to notice) for the shaft to hit it the solenoid has to make a very fast triggering and return, its half step in between 1st and last dev...
Take the solenoid out, rip the sponge from it (the spongy material where the metal lever touches when the solenoid is activated) theres a film of glue under it... (i leave the glue or most of it), and put a little strip of thermal shrinking tube around the metal where the sponge was glued, glue helps to make sure it will stay in place, heat it with a lighter and voila its done.
(dont just remove the sponge and glue, altho will work for a wile, in time the lever will tend to magnetize and clutch may stop working).
Even if the sponge looks perfect... do it anyway, because the lever hitting a harder surface, it will "bounce" back... making it have a much faster recovery! (so it recovers fast enough to lock the shaft in the home position)
If you dont have thermal tube use something else... i prefer that, its super easy and fast to apply and it a material that wont deform in time (unlike the darn sponge)
Try it, i bet it'll work, keep us posted jettamand.
Sometimes we gotta resort to our "inventive" side to resolve/bypass a problem xD tech/inventor/engineer lol and all for $3 hour damn this world is unfair hahaha
I do this every now and then on various machines, and works every time... when there's no suitable place to put the thermal tube on the "frame" of the solenoid i put it around the outer part of the lever (like older HP's LJ1100, 2100 etc). As always worked for me!
Offtopic: Blackcat, you ever had probs with kyo's like 1118,1020,1030 jamming wile pulling paper, sheet is almost at the registry but doesnt really make it (even after kyo came up with the new cassete springs)?
Last edited by hekotez; 05-15-2011 at 07:55 PM.
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If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
hekotez' fix has worked for me, just yesterday. I have removed the foam from the outer surface, but never noticed the crescent shaped disk between the solenoid and the lever. My slight variation is the material I use for sound damping. Among the rest of the odd junk in my toolcase I've got a length of bicycle inner tube and a 6mm paper hole punch. I punched two 6mm disks of inner tube and superglued one to the top of the solenoid, and the other to the top of the lever, matching the original pad locations.
So far, so good! Thanks hekotez. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
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