Sometimes there is visible stuff on the glass and other times it's not. It will go away with cleaning and come back shortly. They are not using white out or anything else I can see. Anybody experience this and come up with a fix?
Thanks in advance.
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Sometimes there is visible stuff on the glass and other times it's not. It will go away with cleaning and come back shortly. They are not using white out or anything else I can see. Anybody experience this and come up with a fix?
Thanks in advance.
If you have access to silicon oil, wipe the glass down and then buff it out.Originally Posted by krm
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
I use brillianize and that usually does well, but not at this place. Where can I get that oil? By buff out, I'm assuming you mean put a drop or two on and just buff until it's super slick? Has this worked on this type of problem for you?
Try increasing the spacing between the white plate and the slit glass. Usually there are spacer features at the front and rear of the DP white plate. A simple approach is to add a few layers of self adhesive mylar to add 1/3 of a mm per layer. Same spacing front and back.
I've done this on a wide variety of machines when you get stretched images or frequently dirty slit glass.
Personally I don't endorse the fuser oil approach. I think it just collects particulate and gets goopy.
=^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Yes, a drop or two only, and buffed out.
Sharp has a p/n for a silicon oil that I don't think is fuser oil, it's a lot lighter, and doesn't collect dust or gum up like I think fuser oil would.
The height adjustment Blackcat mentioned is worth looking at.
"You can't trust your eyes, if your mind is out of focus" --
Thanks. I will take a look tomorrow. I'm desperate on this one. Customer is sick of the lines. How many per side?
It'll depend on your self adhesive mylar. Maximum 0.3 to 0.5mm total spacing between the white plate and the glass. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Thanks.
Deep cleaned the scanner and all areas today. Added two pieces mylar to the "resting areas". Two each side.The mylar I had was the one for the doc feeder on the BHDi250 series. Yeah, that ancient machine. Those guides got damaged a lot. That seemed about to your specs. I shall see what happens. I think these fast machines have trouble processing the high volume accounts. They had a BH 222 there and never had these scanner glass issues.
Time will tell.
Too little spacing causes jamming and frequently dirty slit glass.
Too much spacing causes a blur at the leading or trail edge, usually trailing edge. Or blurry images.
=^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Replace the glass. Cheap soft glass. Run shading correction
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