mx2300

[copicatt]

I have a customer with one of these, and have never serviced one of them. They Company they purchased it from went out of business after a year (should have bought from me). Anyway, it has a TA maintenance message which refers to the transfer kit. I have the kit and am fixing to go install it, but reading further in the manual, it says something about some sort of acid that is to be applied to the belt. Of course, I have none. Are there any alternatives. Seems like a read somewhere that the yellow toner would work for that. Any input? Also, the counters are B&W-64k, Color- 47k. Says the black developer and drum needs to be changed at 100k, does that only refer to the B&W Counter, or a sum of the counters? Thanks alot!

[OMD-227]

Hey Copicatt.....

The MX series transfer belt kit usually does not need replacing at the first 100K. Alot of past experience shows that these belt units will do double-life no problems. The acid you are talking about is most likely Steric Acid. Sharp went through many stages of recommending different new belt lubrication techniques. Some have included Steric acid, Strontium Titanate & Titanium Hydroxide. When doing a transfer belt refurb with the B1 kit, I have found the Titanium Hydroxide to be a better powder. If you do the belt refurb, and dont powder the belt with any of the above items, you will have alot of problems with smudging, belt lockups, blade flip and very poor cleaning. As your machine has only done the first 100K, I'd leave it for now, get your powders from Sharp and do it when it is actually required. An even better option is to order the whole belt unit as one piece. Therefore, no refurb work is required... just a couple of screws.
As far as your counters go, the black drum/dev has done 100K, as black is obviously used in the color pages too. You will find in sim22-01 & 22-13 that the black drum & dev are at their 100K life. I highly recommend replacing the black drum unit or black drum/mk kit only. The black dev can be reset at the same stage (to keep the counters level), and the machine will automatically adjust itself after restart. The Sharp MX devs are the greatest devs of all time. They will easily do several 100K without any problems in the ideal environment. If you reset that dev at the time of drum replacement, the machine sorts itself out and adjusts accordingly. Dont replace the dev unless you actually need to.
At the first 100K on a Pastel 1 machine, I usually walk in with only the Black drum unit, a few feed rollers/adf rollers and the lastest firmware to upgrade. Thats all you need at this stage. Give all the vertical transport rollers in the lower side door a good clean, as well as the reversing rollers in the ADF. Make sure you do the firmware as well, as there was a new version not long ago.
As your color counters are on 47K, they will be due at 60K. From past experience, if these drums are using the old MC grid part number, they will probably be showing signs of wear by now (lines and smudging). If it were me, and I had the stock available, I'd change all 4 drums right now with the latest part numbers (the new MC grid type is so much better/lasts full life). Otherwise, I can see that you will be back at that machine not far from now for the color maintenance. Same case here... replace the color drums, reset the color devs, reset color maintenance.
Do a sim 64-01 & 64-05 before you start and after your finish to see the difference in print/copy quality.

Any issues, let me know. I do MX machines every day .

[copicatt]

Dang, nice response, very informative. I actually went out and installed the transfer belt today. I scrubbed it with yellow toner, and it took off ok. But after reading your post, I wish I had used the right stuff. Live and learn. They are getting black marks from the black drum. It is on the way. I guess I had bettered get some of that hydroxide stuff on the way. Would you happen to have a PN for that? Could I go back out there and apply that stuff on this belt when it comes in or have I already ruined it? Thanks alot.

[blackcat4866]

It's probably not ruined. Once you get the belt to rotate freely, there's really no need to go back for that.

Up until the last few years all I've ever used to prime drums & transfer belts is a plastic salt shaker filled with toner. Toner contains a lubricant to keep the blade from grabbing.

I do use the titanium hydroxide lubricant myself. It's part # UKOG0322FCZZ. It has extremely fine particles, so you can lubricate your hands very well also. =^..^=

[OMD-227]

Part Number for Titanium Hydroxide is UCOG-0322FCZZ.
This is used for the Belt ONLY. Dont ever put this stuff on the drums. Use Steric Acid for them UCOG-0312FCZZ.

This is for MX series 1 only (MX23,27,35,45 series). The C-Dragons & series 2 MX machines use regular Kynar powder on the belt instead.

The lines you are getting from the black drum are caused by the MC Grid. Cleaning it will not fix this issue. It must be replaced. Removing the grid from the MC unit and cleaning it with VERY fine sandpaper will clean it up nicely, but it will only last 10-20K before problem returns. Trust me... replace the black drum as a complete unit if you can. Remember to reset the K dev at the same time. Dont bother replacing it. It will work just fine.

It is highly recommended to powder a new belt, so the blade & belt can seat nicely together. Did you do a complete clean of the transfer rollers & main drive roller inside the belt unit? If not, remove the belt again and clean them really well. Remove the cleaning unit, scrub the entire surface of the belt quite hard with the powder. The manual says to only gently tap the surface with the powder, but I have found if you scrub it in (without damaging the belt surface obviously), the belt surface & the cleaning blade work really well together. You will want to run your finger along the blade edge just to remove any impurities before reinstalling the cleaning unit. Turn the belt unit a complete revolution by turning the main drive gear by hand. If after a full rotation, the belt is still being cleaned perfectly, you know its good to put into the machine. If not cleaning properly, remove, clean & reseat the cleaning unit. No need to re-powder.
Once installed, run 100 pages through the machine. If all pages are clean, you know the belt & blade have seated nicely together and will be OK. If the pages start clean, then start to have small streaks through them, do what I said above (remove, clean, reseat & re-test).
You have not ruined the belt by not doing the powder, but I can almost guarantee that you will have another call to that machine very soon for smudging.

[copicatt]

The belt seemed to be cleaning well. I did scrub it in pretty firmly and made sure that it was cleaning ok. It did rotate smoothly. The customer called later on and said the black streaks were gone and they were gonna wait on the drum. I'm sure that they will be calling soon on that one.....thanks for all the input. Very helpful.......

[OMD-227]

oooohhhhh yeah..... they'll be back alright!

It depends on page coverage. If the lines have 'magically' disappeared at the moment, it means they are only doing light coverage pages. When the pages become more covered or the machine does a Process Control, the lines will be back... usually eveywhere.

You will need that drum at 100K. MX Series 2 machines have drums which can go over-life by a long way. MX series 1 machines pretty much need the drum at the due time, if not, before.

[Tech2002]

wazza - Great Response! You're Good!

[OMD-227]

HaHa... sweet brother!! I try to be as thorough as I can be. It generally helps. When you do these machines everyday, you can do them blind-folded.
Hope you are havin' a good day!

[fireater]

damn sharp and there powders.... little tip... i have used the katun kynar dusting powder on drums and belts .... great sucess...... used it on the toshiba's 3511 belt and it worked there (damn crappy things) so i figured i would try it on the sharps.