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How the hell do you guys change them ?? If they made the cover just clip in, it wouldn't be too bad. It's a PITA to get a right angle driver. We usually pull off the ADF, pull out the supplies, remove any extra cassettes & do it through the bottom. Is there a better way ? We have a TON of these out.
Thanks,
Feed Tires
Hey,
Just remove the DV unit and the Process unit (some prefer to remove the fuser too),use a ratcheting right angle (or stubby Phillips) and remove the gray cover (has 3 pressure rollers on it)just below the fuser. Then just swing up the PF assy and remove them and replace them.
I like the JUST start here! HAHAHAHAHAHaOriginally Posted by glewisme
Yepp, pull the supplies, you can leave the fuser in, or pull it, but to change the sep pad for the top tray you have to pull the MFT out, to get to the plate that hides the sep pad unit there, the other way is to pull the LSU, and go in that way.
I have a stubby that just fits, till I back the screw out
I have found a knurrled bit spinner, least thats the name I am giving it, got it from Sears, one side fits a 1/4 inch ratchet, its square, the other side fits std. driver bits, and has a magnet insert in there also.
Get a 1.5" long #2 phillips bit, and it will just reach into the hole where the screws are, and good luck.
I've got the same one, Vince.
glewisme and Vincent are correct. That way is easy as cake (or is it pie?). Just be careful not to deform the mylar on the edge of that cover. If you get streaks in the feed direction, the pre-transfer mylar may have peeled up and is making contact with the drum. I've done this to myself before. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Remove the dv and drum and there are three screws and a cover. Blackcat is right about the mylar! Also when you put the three screws back in make sure they bottom out or the mylar will drag on the drum causing streaks and smears!
Do you guys not change the sep pad ? I don't think you can get to it from the process section.
Like Vince says, you have to pull the bypass assembly to get to the screw to access the sep pad. While you're there examine the mylar guide that surrounds the sep pad. I've seen a few of these fubar. And it's not much fun to change. =^..^=
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=
Thanks D, I missed that in his reply. I guess I'll just pull the supplies & extra trays & flip it over. I can get it done in about 10 minutes. Sending you a PM.
What are you flipping it over for, the mylar or the sep pad, for the pad you dont have to flip it on its side, like the old AR 200 models, and the AR 237-277, thats a big machine to flip solo.
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