Sharp / OCE CM4010 shift motor problem code L4-11

[robr]

Hello all, I'd appreciate any help you might be able to provide. My disclaimer, I don't know squat about copier repair other than clearing jams and replacing toner, I'm more of a computer/network guy.

A local non profit asked for my help in setting up a copier that was donated to them. It's branded as an OCE CM4010, but some googling helped me to determine it's actually a Sharp. I plugged it in, powered it on and after 30-45 seconds, a grinding noise occurs on the upper right side toward the back, and it comes up with an error that says "call for service - code L4-11". Googling that gives me the results that the problem is "shift motor trouble in the finisher".

I called a number of service places, and all the info I'm getting is that "we will have to send a tech to look at it in order to give you an idea of cost. $150+/hr and travel time is billable". The closest place is 45 minutes away, so we're looking at hundreds just to have someone take a look. This NPO doesn't have that kind of dough.

So I'm wondering, given that it's my understanding that "the finisher" is just a fancy stapler, can it be easily disabled via the control panel or if not, physically removed (by me) so I can at least get this thing functional?

Thanks much for any advice.

[Nachoman4life]

That is, a by picture,(googled) a sharp Mx-35/4501 mfp. The L4-11, is a shift motor error, however where this code points is not part of a finisher, it is part of the main machine. Did the machine come with a finisher, either one that sits under the scanner, or the one that sits off to the left hand side of the main machine? If the machine has a blueish output tray under the scanner, then it is possible the "dummy punch plate" as I like to call it, may have not been removed, if the machine is secondhand. Fill us in on the specifics, or better yet a pic and we will try to help. (Most of my friendliest/most understanding customers are nonprof.)

[robr]

I'll try to get back there tomorrow and take some pictures. Thank you very much for the help. It does has a separate "cabinet" where the output goes on wheels on the left side, but I have it completely disconnected at the moment. Hmmm, I actually have one pic I took that may be of some very limited help, but I will get more.

[wazza]

Dont take any more pictures..... what you've got already, screams a hundred words!

You have the external finisher that Nachoman has already mentioned. You need to actually have it connected to the machine, as the shifter unit is locked in place with the RBX1 drawer & plate installed. The loud grinding noise you hear is the shifter unit trying to operate, as the machine thinks there is no finisher connected (even though the finisher transport unit/RBX1 drawer is installed).

You have mentioned that you have a separate 'cabinet' which is not connected at the moment. That is the finisher, and it MUST be connected. I can see it in the background in the first picture!

As the standard output tray that originally came with the machine has been removed, and the centre RBX1 drawer fitted to support the external finisher is currently in place, you have no other choice than to use the external finisher.
It can be used without the RBX1 drawer & locking plate, but it will look quite ugly as the centre output tray is not there.

Your best option right now is to connect the finisher (2 cables onto the side of the main machine).

You will have to 'reset' the machines error code by entering into service simulation by pressing #, *, C, * when in copy mode. Type in number 14, trouble clear, press execute YES, then press CA, once the display greys back out. The machine will restart to a fully functional device.

Any questions, let us know. There's plenty of quality techs on here that can help with this issue.

[robr]

wow!!! THANK YOU x 100 !!!! I'm speechless. I will let you guys know how it goes. I will be heading back over there on Saturday.

[wazza]

Workin' on a saturday........ nice! You're keen! Haven't done that for years!

Just plug the finisher in, it doesn't really matter if you dont have the lower connecting shaft between the finisher and the engine, as it connects on the upper locking clips. Fit it if you do have it onsite.
Run the Auto configuration mode in the Configuration tab of the PC driver to update the machine config. This will allow you to staple print jobs, perform easier collating & shift sorting and print booklets in saddle-stitch. Its a really good finisher that one. Have not had any major problems with it for years, but it is a proven design anyway.

[robr]

Great, thanks again. This isn't my job, it's volunteer work so the only time I have to squeeze it in is on weekends.

Workin' on a saturday........ nice! You're keen! Haven't done that for years!

Just plug the finisher in, it doesn't really matter if you dont have the lower connecting shaft between the finisher and the engine, as it connects on the upper locking clips. Fit it if you do have it onsite.
Run the Auto configuration mode in the Configuration tab of the PC driver to update the machine config. This will allow you to staple print jobs, perform easier collating & shift sorting and print booklets in saddle-stitch. Its a really good finisher that one. Have not had any major problems with it for years, but it is a proven design anyway.

[robr]

Well my car would not start this morning, so while waiting for my wife to get home with hers, I took a walk down to this place and I successfully got their copier working, thank you for all the help. I do have one remaining question though.

When it copies, it makes a thumping sound which comes from the right side of the machine after the copy completes for about 30 seconds or so. Any idea what this is, and if it indicates something else that could turn into a more serious issue? I recorded a video with audio and stuck it here so you can see what I'm talking about

[Nachoman4life]

That is probably the upper heat roller bearings popping, not harmful just annoying. It can be fixed with a few spacers, how ever it would be best for a trained tech to do it. The rollers can be pretty fragile not to mention the heat lamps inside the roller are very fragile.

OOPS I posted with out checking your video, that sounds more like one of the rollers has formed a flat spot ( usually happens when the machine sits for a long period of time with the pressure still on), some times they can be run long enough to mostly fix them however replacement of the rollers is a guaranteed fix, still it would be best to have a tech do it (same fragile parts involved)

If the customer may be interested in a maint contract, check with some of the sharp dealers too, that would open up a few more options.

[Lawrence]

When those machines warm up the bearings can make a clicking noise since they didn't put a bushing in. Also in the right side there will be fuser preasure leavers on the unit with orange rollers inside. They MUST be in the down position. The leavers can be either black or blue depending on age of the machine. My bet is this machine was left with the fuser preasure on while sitting for a while and the roller developed a flat spot. You can identify this by turning the little green wheel that is at the rear frame side. The wheel will be getting hard to turn and then turn very easy when it hits the flat spot. If this is the case i would not be to worried about it. The fuser for that machine retails for about $400.