problems with mx2700n

[blackcat4866]

Priming the blade on these transfer units is crucial. Sharp has changed their minds a couple of times as to the best type of prime.

Personally, I haven't seen much different regarding the type of prime dust, as long as you very thoroughly dust the top surface of the belt, rotate through to the next section, dust again, and so on until you have heavily dusted the entire surface of the transfer belt. It's not very easy to turn the transfer belt by hand, so I have made a hand-driver (go ahead and laugh, wazza) to make it easier to rotate without wearing your fingertips raw.

I got my Christmas present early this year. It's a digital camera. I'll take a few pix once I figure out how it works. =^..^=

[bilyahn]

As for the primer dust I always use toner from the waste toner container that way you don't need to be frugal with the powder. Haven't seen any issues with this but then our customers are not that picky.

Good luck.

Bil

[OMD-227]

If the primary transfer belt is refurbished/rebuilt on a MX2300/2700/3500/4500 machine, you really should use Titanium Hydroxide (UKOG-0322FCZZ). All other MX color machines transfer belts use regular Kynar Powder (UKOG-0123FCZZ).

When I do a belt refurb, I have found the best way is to rub the surface of the belt with the dusting bag quite firmly, almost polishing the surface. Once the whole belt is covered & polished, install the cleaning unit and rotate the belt one full turn (easily driving the main drive gear with a regular screwdriver Dave), then remove the cleaning unit, wipe off excess powder and/or any loose material on the blade with one pass wipe, the reinstall the cleaning unit. Reinstall the belt unit into the machine, then run 50 sets of sim 64-05. This will print 100 pages. This is the perfect running-in of the belt & blade. If you get through that print run without any problems, you're good to go, if smudges start to appear, just remove the cleaning unit, wipe off the blade & reinstall. Run that same test again and it wont come back.

2 things you need to know.....

The first MX color series is only 600dpi with varying color density, so I hope this machine hasnt been sold into a very color critical client, because you are going to have alot of trouble.
120gsm paper is only to be used from the bypass tray on the heavy paper setting. The first series M color machines dont support heavy paper (106-209gsm) from the standard trays. Running heavy paper for even a short time from the standard trays will give both poor fusing & jamming as well as premature wear on the belts as the paper is passing too fast.

Basically mate, the samples you have given show minor issues with the primary belt (as well as the dent mark you have caused accidentally). The belt unit/frame/rollers should be thoroughly cleaned & belt replaced & primed using the correct methods if you want this to work properly. Although, in an emergency Bill has a good idea using the waste toner.

[blackcat4866]

Hand Driver Transfer.JPG

For me, the AF350 fuser knobs are plentiful, and the gear can be scavenged from a discarded main drive assembly, or ordered for the purpose. Epoxy was not enough to keep the gear attached to the steel shaft, so this one is pinned and epoxy (overkill, as usual). =^..^=

[OMD-227]

You are seriously too much Dave.

A regular philips screwdriver is all you need, but as usual, you've gone above & beyond.