Loud squealing sound when feeding from paper trays

[redserv]

hello guys went to a client today, that was getting an annoying squealing sound when feeding from 81/2x11 and sometimes on 81/2x14 paper trays, the copier is a MXM453N, i took the paper feed drive down and tried lubricating it with WD-40, still no luck, if i make a copy from the bypass tray, i dont get the squeaking/squealing sound , it only happens when the paper is in the process off feeding, i also lubricated the torque clutch behind the feed rollers as well with no luck, can someone help me with this please? i am pulling out my hair atm trying to figure out whats going on, thanks in advance.

[blackcat4866]

I'll be interested in everybody's opinion on this:

You use WD40? This might be fine on all metal parts, but WD40 attacks plastics, which includes your gears, plastic bushings, cassette guides, etc.
I personally only use WD40 for cleaning metal frames, metal fuser guides, and some rubber rollers. And you cannot lubricate torque limiters. They use magnetism and metal particles, and are intended to function dry. Is anyone else horrified to hear this? =^..^=

[mojorolla]

There is a bulletin regarding this. There is a poly slider added to the front of the deceleration gear. TB-482. I have seen this a few times, but mostly on 2600/3100's

As for WD-40, it's good in a pinch, but it does eat plastic, which is what that entire casing is made of. I have also seen it eat the coatings of some wires.

[divad2k1]

Make sure your feed rolls doesnt have a flat spot, if ok, i know 3 things that can cause noise while feeding.


- You can try to open and lub the paper feed drive unit (fig 32 of PG )
- lub the shaft of the transport rollers in the right lower door.
- Defective clutch in the paper feed drive unit


And btw, stay away from WD-40

[redserv]

oops, well first up thanks for the quick response, i have used WD40 for sometime, but you learn something new everyday, i did not think that it had any effect on plastics, i think i'll stay away from it though, thanks for all the advice, i'll check the bulletin and also open up the paperfeed drive, thanks again guys

[blackcat4866]

This thread brings me to mind of the proper way to clean a drive mechanism. Many a tech I've worked with has created havoc on their own machines (and mine too). Here are some guidelines.

1) Don't hose down anything in WD40.
2) Clean bushings with orange-sol or alcohol.
a) Lubricate bronze bushings with light oil.
b) Leave plastic bushings in the fuser dry. The lubricant will collect particulate, and
ultimately cause friction.
c) Other plastic bushings leave dry, but only lubricate if noisey, with light oil.
3) Gears: clean excessive toner & gunk from the gear teeth and bore. Lubricate bore with light
oil. Run gear teeth dry, but if noisy use white grease.
4) Clutches: There are a lot of different types of clutches and each must be cleaned in their
own way. These are just a few common ones:
a) Electro-Magnetic clutches are intended to run dry. Clean these clutches with alcohol.
Don't sand the plates. Remember this is a magnetic clutch, not a friction clutch. For the
most magnetic attraction, you need the most surface contact. By sanding you lessen the
surface contact. If clutch bushings are noisy place a drop of oil on your finger, wipe most
of it off, then wipe what remains on the clutch bushings only (absolutely the least amount
of oil). Excessive oil will migrate to clutch plates, and it will slip. Many of these clutches
are not able to be disassembled. In a pinch I've soaked these clutches in a cap of alcohol,
or folded over some paper and slipped it between the plates and added a few drops of
alcohol to the paper. Then rotate the clutch to wipe off what gunk you can onto the paper
until the paper comes away clean.
b) Greaseable or Spring-Wrap clutches have a spring that tightly grips the inner hubs. The
activation of the solenoid (or internal electrical coil) releases the ratchet holding one end of
the spring to drive the desired roller. These clutches can be cleaned with orange-sol or
alcohol. The spring is then greased with IBM23 grease (each manufacturer has it's own
specific recommended lubricant). The solenoid can be cleaned with alcohol, then operated
dry. Never oil a solenoid. There were some early Canon pickup clutches that used a plastic
spring wrap clutch. These worked best with Marvel Mystery Oil as a lubricant.
c) Torque Limiters in the early machines were usually of the greaseable /spring-wrap variety
and treated just like those clutches. Most modern torque limiters are a plastic sleeve filled
with developer, and a magnetic core. These run completely dry. Oil will turn the developer
mixture into something like concrete. Usually the plastic case will crack and start to leak
metal particles, and require replacement.
d) One-Way Clutches or Bearings are intended to be oiled. When turned in one direction the
cylindrical bearings grip the shaft to drive, when turned in the other direction it slips on the
shaft. Two things can go wrong with these. The oil can dry up or the chromed shaft may wear
down. You can clean the one-way bearing with alcohol, then lubricate with light oil. If you notice
the shaft is worn, try running the cleaned bearing to see if it slips. Sometimes you can shim the
one-way bearing up or down the shaft slightly to grip an unworn portion of shaft. If it still slips
a temporary fix is to slightly knurl the shaft with sandpaper. But it's only temporary. You'll have
to replace the shaft.

*stepping down off of his soapbox* =^..^=

[redserv]

thanks alot for this blackcat, this will definately be useful.

[rednecktek]

Seen this on two copiers already. Replaced the main drive unit and fixed problems both times.