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    Thumbs up AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    I was at customer last week with AR-168D. Rear fuser hole stripped so i temporarily used a screw that was 1/4 inch longer. Got call today saying noise back, meaning screw is loose. What have you found to be best quick solution? Fast hardening substance that a screw can be put into within brief period? These are same fuser unit setups as Sharp Al series machines. Please advise. Frank/ActionPhotocopy


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    Cool Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    Quote Originally Posted by axyun View Post
    I was at customer last week with AR-168D. Rear fuser hole stripped so i temporarily used a screw that was 1/4 inch longer. Got call today saying noise back, meaning screw is loose. What have you found to be best quick solution? Fast hardening substance that a screw can be put into within brief period? These are same fuser unit setups as Sharp Al series machines. Please advise. Frank/ActionPhotocopy
    ther are a couple of ways to fix this. you can buy some LOC-TITE and use a screw with more Girth and let it dry overnight before usage, or you can buy LiquidNails and this dries in about an hour . You can also puddy up the hole with liquid nails and drill a new hole 24hours later. hope this helps.


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    Thumbs up Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    Thanks Arnie. I will be going there tomorrow and will look over the overall advice and make decision by tomorrow Am. i will post results. Frank


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    Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    For this model I recommend digging a small hole in your back yard, then covering it with dirt. The first step is the hole stripping out. The next step is the frame plastic crumbling. I suppose that you could build an AR-168 around a new frame if you had a week and nothing to do. But this model is hardly worth it. And how would you charge $4000 labor to fix $400 MFP? =^..^=

    If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
    1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
    2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.


    blackcat: Master Of The Obvious =^..^=

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    Thumbs up Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    There is always bubble gum, appropriate tape, rubber bands and string ( parts I always have in stock). Oh, I forgot melting the plastic rear frame to middle machine frame with soldering iron. Of course, next call would be a doozy(as Ned Ryerson would say). Frank


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    Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    We replace the middle frame and do it in less than three hours if replacing shifter assy also. If not needing anything other than frame can be done in less than two hours. Wouldn't recomend doing in customers location unless there is a spare table or desk to work on.


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    Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    You might try drilling a new hole in the plastic fuser frame below the locator pin. It looks like there might be enough plastic surface on the frame to also drill it. If nothing else. the bottom screw could hold things while an epoxy repair of the top hole sets up. I put a drop of super glue on the side of the head of the screw to try to keep it from backing out when the mounting holes start expanding.

    I assume that the fusing unit has been tightening up and causing a stripped drive unit gear. It might be worth considering that even with the fuser unit secured, there might still be fusing unit problems. Have you cleaned the upper & lower fuser bearings lately? Those units really get tight, especially during the first warm-up of the day.


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    Thumbs up Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    I have not recently cleaned fuser bearings etc as there have been no indications of this problem til last week. I examined the fuser briefly and nothing looked out of the ordinary except for the loose screw. I will examine more carefully and try an epoxy and cleaning and gear check again when I return tomorrow. The middle frame replacement is not something I would consider at this time.Thanks for your input. I will reports after call is complete. Frank


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    Cool Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    Quote Originally Posted by blackcat4866 View Post
    For this model I recommend digging a small hole in your back yard, then covering it with dirt. The first step is the hole stripping out. The next step is the frame plastic crumbling. I suppose that you could build an AR-168 around a new frame if you had a week and nothing to do. But this model is hardly worth it. And how would you charge $4000 labor to fix $400 MFP? =^..^=
    the only problem is that my backyard is full of old canons and xerox's , otherwise i'd bury it for him, after a couple of kicks for old time sake. the toshiba's do the same one little crumble and its a coffee cake..LOL


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    Re: AR168D--on of Fuser holder hole stripped out--best solution?

    Break out the old stripped out screw hole. It's usually cracked any ways. Take sand paper or a file and scuff up the entire surface around the screw hole. Wipe clean with alcohol. Fill the entire dam thing in with JB Quick. Let it setup for the night. File it smooth after so the fuser will fit in. The little cavity around the hole you just filled usually sags a bit. Drill a new hole and run in the screw. Ive done this on a few machines and it worked. I then tell the customer this is just a patch and they need to look at a new machine. Or better yet, bury it in BlackCats back yard.

    Evil will always triumph because good is dumb.
    Its all shits and giggles until some body giggles and shits...

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