MX-C311 - (etc) L4-16 Pressure Release issues still occurring after "updates"

[RascalMJ]

As most of you probably know, the issues with the fusers on these models. I've been following all the Bulletins and all the different changes to the Pressure Release Detect Actuator, Pressure Release Detect Plate, and the poly slider...etc, etc.

Recently though, after following the Bulletins with the updated parts I am still seeing these pieces fail soon after replacement. Is anyone else seeing this?

In doing some research, I found this: http://www.sharp-idncservice.com/Idn...MFP-TB-715.pdf which seems to be "new" info. I checked one of my recent "fixes" and it is not marked with "A4", but it does have the latest markings from the latest service bulletin.

Anyway, just curious what everyone else is running into. I know from looking through posts in the past, some are keen on just replacing the old fuser. Seemed like a waste to me at thge time, but in the long run if I have to keep doing this same "fix" over and over.... that idea is looking better and better.

Thanks,

[Akitu]

Make sure you're using the updated fusers first and foremost, MXC32FU1, no longer MXC31FU1. Follow that up with the latest firmware and these things actually run pretty smoothly now.

I have had several 32FU1s code the L4-16 despite updates, when it happens I just send it back on warranty and throw in a new one. Has been quite some time since my last fuser failure though, I would look into what else may be causing it, and in your case if it's happening frequently, remove covers and investigate if the pressure release sensor flag has broken off. If not, then there's something else at work causing your machines to code out when they shouldn't be.

[RascalMJ]

Make sure you're using the updated fusers first and foremost, MXC32FU1, no longer MXC31FU1. Follow that up with the latest firmware and these things actually run pretty smoothly now.

I have had several 32FU1s code the L4-16 despite updates, when it happens I just send it back on warranty and throw in a new one. Has been quite some time since my last fuser failure though, I would look into what else may be causing it, and in your case if it's happening frequently, remove covers and investigate if the pressure release sensor flag has broken off. If not, then there's something else at work causing your machines to code out when they shouldn't be.

Oh, I forgot to mention that it is not a "false error" or anything like that. It is in fact the pressure release detect actuator fracturing. I know the new style fusers are supposed to be a lot better, but I am just not sure which versions we are dealing with. We have some "new" machines that are sitting in our warehouse as "quota", so when they get sold I think of them as new, but they could have the old style fuser for sure. Is there an easy way to tell the difference?

...and how easy is it to do the above mentioned return on warranty for this issue?

Thanks for the help

[Akitu]

Best I can give you is this bulletin.

REP1780_REP1780.pdf

States that machines produced after March 2010 will have the upgraded pressure release actuators. The bulletin you linked was the 2013 improvement where it adds .05mm to the diameter of the actuator so it doesn't get destroyed by the heat. Two different problems with the same part really, in one case you'll have it bent in half and snap off (2010 change) from hitting the sensor, in the other it'll crack around the shaft and fall straight off (I assume, haven't had that one happen to me).

So if your "new" machines are anything like ours used to be, they would sit in a warehouse at Sharp while being ordered and you'd get a "brand new" 2009 model in late 2011 that would require all the retrofits. There's no real way to tell aside from taking off the cover and looking at the actuator for the changes, best hope is to throw it in and see how it performs. I had some 31FU1s that had no problems at all, it really just comes down to luck.

Sharp has a good warranty policy, I'm not sure if it would be on their support sites (which are local depending on where you are). Not sure if it's presently on the new ssap.com or the previous sharpnet (as it was for Canada). I'd recommend just checking your Sharp IDNC and seeing if you can find their warranty claims section.

[mojorolla]

The easiest way to tell if its a newer fuser is remove the top cover and look at the pressure detect plate. The newest production of these plates are white and stick out like a sore thumb with all that black plastic. I have also been taking a rat tail file and running it through the detect flag. As the fuser heats, the flags get bounds up on the shaft and end to snap the top off. A few passes with the file has made a huge difference. You can also check the one way clutch arm as they tend to form grooves or the bearing goes and L4-16 is usually the code.

Its a shame you cant use the mono fusers (B42FU1) as these things NEVER give that code. Not to mention the press rolls can look like deep fried sausage and the CQ is still good.

[RascalMJ]

The easiest way to tell if its a newer fuser is remove the top cover and look at the pressure detect plate. The newest production of these plates are white and stick out like a sore thumb with all that black plastic. I have also been taking a rat tail file and running it through the detect flag. As the fuser heats, the flags get bounds up on the shaft and end to snap the top off. A few passes with the file has made a huge difference. You can also check the one way clutch arm as they tend to form grooves or the bearing goes and L4-16 is usually the code.

Its a shame you cant use the mono fusers (B42FU1) as these things NEVER give that code. Not to mention the press rolls can look like deep fried sausage and the CQ is still good.

I have started to see the new white nylon detect plate come in as a part, that I have been replacing. We have ordered a few new fusers and I don't recall seeing the white nylon detect plate. I wonder if the "new" fusers we were ordering, were actually the old style. Just recently I was able to verify that we ordered an MX-C32FU1, but I think that might have been it. The others were the old style MX-c31FU1. That would explain a lot.

Seems like now Sharp is back-ordered on the MX-C32FU1. Figures

[Akitu]

I have started to see the new white nylon detect plate come in as a part, that I have been replacing. We have ordered a few new fusers and I don't recall seeing the white nylon detect plate. I wonder if the "new" fusers we were ordering, were actually the old style. Just recently I was able to verify that we ordered an MX-C32FU1, but I think that might have been it. The others were the old style MX-c31FU1. That would explain a lot.

Seems like now Sharp is back-ordered on the MX-C32FU1. Figures

I'm actually surprised by this. Sharp's usually good on larger things. I've been waiting for cleaning blade pressure release springs since April however for the C31 transfer belt... Had one too many fly off into the nether-carpet.

If you want horrible backorders, try getting anything from Ricoh.

[RascalMJ]

I'm actually surprised by this. Sharp's usually good on larger things. I've been waiting for cleaning blade pressure release springs since April however for the C31 transfer belt... Had one too many fly off into the nether-carpet.

If you want horrible backorders, try getting anything from Ricoh.

Yeah, I work on some other equipment where if it breaks GOOD LUCK, cuz you aren't getting a new part or assembly. You are waiting for MONTHS! UGH

Our office manager said it may be a "sharp wide" thing. Maybe they are doing some inventory work. She said several parts have been back-ordered for a short amount of time.

My problem with the return policy and warranty of the old style fuser is how do I PROVE it is the old style. I think there is a difference in the diameter of a bearing or something, but I haven't been able to pinpoint exactly what I am looking for. ha

I know you mentioned the white nylon detect plate, but that would just be the new, NEW, I think. I am pretty sure there was an "inbetween" new. haha. Now I am confusing myself. Time for lunch

[Akitu]

Yeah, I work on some other equipment where if it breaks GOOD LUCK, cuz you aren't getting a new part or assembly. You are waiting for MONTHS! UGH

Our office manager said it may be a "sharp wide" thing. Maybe they are doing some inventory work. She said several parts have been back-ordered for a short amount of time.

My problem with the return policy and warranty of the old style fuser is how do I PROVE it is the old style. I think there is a difference in the diameter of a bearing or something, but I haven't been able to pinpoint exactly what I am looking for. ha

I know you mentioned the white nylon detect plate, but that would just be the new, NEW, I think. I am pretty sure there was an "inbetween" new. haha. Now I am confusing myself. Time for lunch

Check the bulletin I linked from 2010. It will give undoubted proof as to what style it is, as the actuator had a rib added to it. Actuator has rib? Post March 2010 - indicates upgraded C31FU1 or C32FU1. No rib? Warranty claim in the bag provided you can prove it was installed within 180 days.

[RascalMJ]

Check the bulletin I linked from 2010. It will give undoubted proof as to what style it is, as the actuator had a rib added to it. Actuator has rib? Post March 2010 - indicates upgraded C31FU1 or C32FU1. No rib? Warranty claim in the bag provided you can prove it was installed within 180 days.

Oh, yeah....I am familiar with the rib. Problem is....I have replaced a number of them already, so I need a different "control" to verify old fuser.

Long story short. I am on the losing end of this battle it appears, and wasn't "on top" of it soon enough. Now we have fusers swapped at location to location and the "kits" on some fusers and not others....etc, etc.

I just need to figure out a way to get some kind of ORDER!!! ha. I guess just order all new fusers for EVERYONE!!!! ;P