Estudio 4511 CF20 error - toner density - Color auto-toner sensor

**KPC** · 12-05-2009

I set 08 556/557 to 0 and ran a black copy, below is a picture of the copy.

Two more problems,

1. the upper draw and lower large capacity drawer are both misfeeding and throwing a E130 / E190 code. The middle drawer is the only drawer that is feeding properly.

2. when the unit initially fires up, it sounds as though the belt that is connected to the weighted flywheel is slipping, until the flywheel gets up to speed to match the speed of the belt / drive system.

I pulled the boards again to get a better look into the drive system, it looks like there is a tensioner for the belt that connects to the flywheel.

I loosened the pinch screw and slide the tensioner to its max position, and I can see it slightly tightening the belt, however grasping the belt and moving it back and forth, it still feels substantially loose.

Plus, if I rotate the flywheel manually, I can feel it skipping teeth on the belt.

Visually inspecting the belt, none of the teeth appear to be worn. It seems as though it is a bent tension / tensioner issue.

The unit has around 110k prints. Could this drive belt be stretched that far?

**Mr Spock** · 12-05-2009

Originally Posted by KPC

The unit has around 110k prints. Could this drive belt be stretched that far?

Yes the belt stretches or breaks. They released an update to fix this but you have to replace two belts and 2 or 3 gears and is not hard just have to remove the boards and the drum drive unit to do it.

**KPC** · 12-06-2009

Below are pictures of the CN105 connector. Notice how the Black & Yellow wire that is tied into the hard drive power cable, is a perfect fit for the CN105 fan board connector.

The wires are even factory zip tied in the location as the CN105 connector.

Where do the tiny black & yellow wires go? Should they just be left unplugged??

**KPC** · 12-06-2009

Update,

the reason for the misalignment on the print above, as well as the loose belt, is due to the belt jumping off the tensioner when I released tension on it (trying to adjust it). At first I didn't realize it but now that I tore into the tensioner, aligned the belt, tensioned it down, the black copy is aligned, but it is still copying light mostly toward the top of the paper (see picture below). Any ideas why the top of the paper, and a slight bit of the bottom, is fading?

As for when I try a full color copy, it is throwing a CF20 code again. But I already cleaned the Color auto-toner sensor. Any idea why it is still coding out on CF20?

Also, after I readjusted the belt and set the tension properly, the middle & upper drawers are feeding fine now, but the lower large capacity feeder is still misfeeding. Any ideas what might be causing this?

I feel like I'm in the home stretch of getting this beast back together. Hopefully if I can get just these last few problems worked out, she'll be back up and running.

So far thanks for everyones help. I know I didn't mention it enough in these posts, but really thanks for your help!!

**ToshibaTech** · 12-08-2009

Hmm this could be related to CF20, your copy there --looks-- very typical of the laser slit glass being dirty. You can get to it by pulling the drum portion, removing two screws and sliding the erase lamps out of the way and clean it really good with a rag. It's hard to get (for me) without moving the erase lamps, and they are kind of a pain to get back in you just have to fiddle with it.
Those LCFs run pretty good and most of the time they just need tires. I usually also clean the transport tires right above the LCF feed. Sometimes I have replaced the torque limiter on the sep tire especially if you are getting three little spin out marks from the transport tires. I have also seen the little white gears driving the sep tire break, annnnd also on the back there is a gear ran by a belt which turns a shaft. Sometimes the flat spot inside the gear that fits on the shaft will wallow out and the gear will turn on the shaft every so often (thus you don't have any drive to your LCF.)

**KPC** · 12-28-2009

Hello and thanks for your help.

I cleaned the laser slit glass, black copies are now spot on perfect.

When I try a color copy, it codes out CF20.

I have cleaned the color toner sensor, the reference plate is clean and scratch free, the sensor lens is also clean and scratch free. the shutter is working properly.

The CF20 code is for the magenta developer. I took pictures of the developer. Note that the magenta is not as wide as the cyan or yellow. I do not have record when the last time the developers were replaced. This is the first that I've worked on this machine.

If it is the magenta developer that is causing the CF20, is there any way to force over-ride the code-out for CF20. Meaning, the machine will force a color copy eventhough eventhough the color auto-toner sensor is detecting a problem with the state of the magenta developer.

If consumibles are needed for the developers, where should I turn for the best price. Can the developer be refilled or do I have to go with the full developer replacement kit.

**ToshibaTech** · 12-30-2009

Yeah you need to replace the M developer there isn't any on that mag roller which means it's probably empty. You'd ahve to take the dev. unit out to make sure. It's best to replace it with the right thing. To get it out, remove the M toner, then rotate the revolver by hand to where the developer "ledge" lines up with the ledge on the machine. Hard to explain, but there are two white clips (front/back) with two screws that have to be removed. And over those two clips is a "ledge" which lines up and lets the developer unit slide out (with the toner removed.)

**KPC** · 01-03-2010

Thanks again for your help.

I've actually pulled the developers out to clean behind them, so I know what you mean about getting them to line up to slide them out.

I contacted my local toshiba dealer, and they said that the developers have a 100k+ yield, where another person in this thread stated a 30k yield.

The dealer also said not to replace the whole M developer unit, but to buy just the developer refill (toshiba part number 6LA27229000 - approx $200)

Then to open the M devloper unit, dump out the M developer material, and refill the developer unit using the bottle of developer material toshiba part number 6LA27229000

I also asked the dealer if they knew of anyway to bypass (over-ride) the CF20 error, and force the machine to print a color copy. The sales person put me on hold and got a field-tech and neither knew of any way to bypass the CF20 to force it to print. They said that they simply replace the most logical part one at a time until they figure out what the problem is. (hmm.. must be nice to deal with companies with unlimited budgets)

They were persistant to sell me a M developer refill bottle, as a "good place to start" to replacing until the code goes away.

They are clearly more interested in just downright making a sale than helping to make sure that the part they do sell, is what is needed to repair the machine. I'm working with fixing this machine on a budget, and I'm reluctant to just randomly dump money into this machine without being dead sure that the money spent will go towards fixing the problem.

I know that from the pictures, and the yellow (0), cyan (0), magenta (1) code, that something isn't detecting correctly with the magenta developer, but I'm still not sure if I should just purchase the magenta refill, or a full magenta developer unit, or if the CF20 is still unrelated to the developer at all. The CF20 is a color toner sensor voltage abnormality.

I wish that I had a spare M developer that I could swap out, as a form of a test to see if the machine will stop coding out errors. Then if it stops coding out, I'd feel confident in spending necessary money to fix the m developer. Either a replacement m developer unit (cartridge) or a refill bottle.

**ToshibaTech** · 01-04-2010

This model uses a light sensor to detect the ratio of toner/developer in each dev. unit by looking at the mag roller. CF20 means it isn't seeing what it wants, because in your case there is no dev. material on the mag roller for it to see. Basically no way to get around it that I know. If you want to go a cheap route that will probably work but I can't gaurantee you can do the following. And this might not work because of the CF20 but you can always take the black dev out...

Fill the M dv unit with black developer like DV-3500 (what's in the black dev. unit on this model.)

Disable 08-556/557.

Run about 100 mono color sky shots (with a good lead edge void) of Magenta color. They should start out black and as M toner gets added it will turn more Magenta. (E.G. put a piece of paper covering about an inch of the glass to the left and goto image and then "twin color" i think or "mono color" and select magenta.) You want the copier to just print out a bunch of magenta, you could also print to it just solid magenta pages from paint or word or something... just leave a big leading edge margin to avoid jams in the fuser.

After it looks "ok." Reenable the 08 codes, then run 05-202 (I think, or maybe 203 someone correct me... you can run both without any major consequence) Which will calibrate the auto toner sensor for magenta.

Run 05-396, if it completes power the copier up and run calibrations under user functions > admin

.........

I'd still recommend just using the M developer material from the dealer as it looks like to me that will fix it. But I have no way of knowing if something else is wrong other than what you can see in the pictures.
Also if the above works, then good you know it's just out of developer and you can empty out the black developer material and then buy the right thing.