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  1. #1
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    Estudio 4511 CF20 error - toner density - Color auto-toner sensor

    In a previous post

    http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/toshiba/25630-toshiba-e-studio-3511-check-color-toner-cartridge.html

    it was mentioned about cleaning the color toner sensor due to an error after the toner was cleaned out.

    I'm having the exact same problems after doing a thorough toner cleanout in a Toshiba estudio 4511.

    Initially this machine was throwing an error saying "Check Color Toner Cartridge"

    We vacuumed out the machine, removed the toner cartridges wiped them off, removed the developers, wiped them off, vacuumed out the bottom of the machine, removed the excess toner catch tray, cleaned it off, overall just a thorough cleaning of the machine.

    put it back together, tried a test sheet and it is now throwing CF20 error

    Dug out the service manual, it said to

    It is saying the CF20 error is due to an abnormal toner density detection voltage, and that by

    holding 0&8 + power on, enter code 824, it shows

    Y is rated 1
    M is rated 0
    C is rated 0

    So I went back to the service manual and it says

    Displays 1 when the abnormal
    toner density detection voltage is
    detected. ([CF20] error)
    0: Normal
    1: Abnormality detected


    So I guess that the yellow is out of voltage range.
    From what I can tell, this refers back to a dirty color toner sensor.

    In the service manual it says:

    Color auto-toner sensor
    The head of color auto-toner sensor is to be cleaned with a cotton swab or soft cloth with
    sufficient alcohol filled in. The reference plate is to be cleaned by blowing off the adhered toner
    with an air-spray type cleaner such as a blower brush or an air duster"

    The sensor seems to be located in a difficult to access locaton. Should the toner sensor be removed for the cleaning procedure?

    The sensor appears to be held in by some screws that are only accessable if the output tray is removed. I tried removing the output tray, but it seems like I have to tear down 1/2 of the machine just to remove the output tray.

    Anyone have personal experience with these ES4511's





  2. #2
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    Nah you don't have to tear the machine apart. You do have to remove the ouput tray. And if the machine has a finisher installed you will have to take the finisher off, and the bridge (relay) unit off. Then you can get the sensor assy. out. Flick the sensor out so you can see the LED and Receiver and blow them off or wipe them off. Do not touch the gray reference plate. I have heard of techs fixing this problem if it wouldn't go away by putting some scotch tape (not the really clear kind) over the gray plate and supposedly the error will not come back. I haven't tried this myself. You can also look in the codes and open up the thresholds so it will not code out. Oh, also when you get that sensor assy out the toner cartridge sensor is located just beside it towards the rear... you can clean it out at the same time.


  3. #3
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    More problems.

    I removed the output tray and the bridge.

    Cleaned under them with vacuum & pressurized air.

    Cleaned the toner sensor, reinstalled everything, all panels, etc..

    Turned machine on, it powered up.

    Unit powered up seemingly alright, except that the problem now is that was that one of the drive systems has a squeek in it.

    I assume that in the process of cleaning out this copier today, some airborn toner landed on one of the drive system bushings, causing the bushing to run dry and making the squeeking sound when the drive system rotates.

    So I put it in test mode 03

    Turned on/off motor after motor, until I came to 112. 112 is developer drive motor.

    Let 112 run for a few seconds and determined squeel was coming from one of the gear sets behind the circuit boards.

    So I followed service manual instructions for developer motor replacement (although it wasn't a bad motor, just what seems to be a "dry" bushing)

    So I removed the 3 circuit boards, oiled the bronze bushings for the developer drive gear sets.

    Reinstalled the ciruit boards, put the machine back together, hit the on button and I'm getting essentially nothing.

    When I flip the main power switch, the power supply clicks on for only 1/2 second, the display backlight iluminates, then I can hear the relay click off back by the power supply and the display backlight shuts off. The relay is turning on and shutting back off before any of the motors start to spool up in initial power on self test.

    I checked fuses, all appear ok. I checked circuit board plugs, all appear to be seated and connected properly. I really feel confident that I put the machine back together properly. I never had a feeling that I was stressing any of the cables, or plugs, etc.. Everything came apart smooth and went back together smooth.

    But something isn't right. I figure that even if one of the data cables isn't 100% seated, shouldn't the machine fire up for more than 1/2 second? I can't even get it to fire up long enough for it to throw a code.

    I'm stumped. Any ideas. Thank you so much in advance.

    Last edited by KPC; 10-25-2009 at 10:16 AM.

  4. #4
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    bump


  5. #5
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    I would probably just unplug one at a time connectors on the boards you removed. After removing one, try to power on, and see what you get. Then plug that connector back in and go to the next. Sounds like either something was left unplugged or a wire is pinched. Of course it's possible you killed a board, but it sounds like you were pretty careful so I would kind of doubt that at first. Seriously though, if you shorted a board on a 3511 and are faced with buying a board... that particular model isn't even worth fooling with.


  6. #6
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    Thumbs down Bad system...

    These machines are absolute PIGS and you will never rid them entirely of the bugs... I've had these things down to the frames, several times in my shop, and a poorer designed system would be hard to find.

    The original problem you had may have been the cartridge detect sensor on rear frame, gets badly dusted (like everything else in this machine), but if that's not it, then make sure you have up to date supplies. The Color Developers are particularly bad about needing replacement often, sometimes more often than their 30K yield. After you replace the developers, be sure to thoroughly calibrate (I do this twice, to be sure) and then you reset all the numbers in the PM Support Mode.

    If you have not spent a significant amount of time with this machine and don't know it that well, back away as quickly and quietly as you can!
    OC


  7. #7
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    Thanks for the replies.

    Quick question, I have the machine torn partially apart again.

    If the toners, developers & bridge are removed, could this cause the copier to not start up.

    It would seem an obvious answer, yes that if the parts aren't fully installed it isn't going to fire up, but there doesn't appear to be any sensors on the actual toners or developers, that would tell sense if they are installed, until AFTER the copier fires up, and rotates the carrier for the toners & developers to pass them by a non-contact (sensor)

    But the copier doesn't even fire up to rotate the carrier to detect for toner & developers, so I can't see how just because the toners & developers are out of the machine, that it would not fire up.

    Also, as for the bridge being unplugged & removed, this i'm not sure about.

    It doesn't appear to have any switch that detects if the bridge is installed, the only way this would be detected is that it isn't plugged in.

    Would the bridge being unplugged cause the copier to not want to fire up?

    These are the only things left that I can figure out that might be causing it to not want to start up. After this, I'm only left with pulling plugs and checking for loose wires.


  8. #8
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    It should come on and at least code out without some of the parts in it. With the bridge removed you are ok, unless you have the finisher plugged in. Even then it would just show a jam because the bridge sensors are unplugged. With the DV's out of the machine --I think-- it would just code out. My bet is something is unplugged or shorted to ground.


  9. #9
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    Ok, so I went connector by connector unplugging one at a time > each time individually fliping on the power switch, trying to determine if any of the wires were the culprit for it not firing up.

    I got to the CN105 connector, that when when I disconnected it, the unit would turn on. If I shut the unit down, plugged in the connector, it wouldn't turn on at all, dead nothing.

    The board is printed "CN105 fan" beside the connector, the only wire that fits the CN105 board connector, is a very small black & yellow wire, tied into the black & yellow wires for the hard drive power cord. No other wire fits the board connector, so it doesn't appear that the wrong wire is connected.

    Any ideas why the CN105 connector needs to be unplugged? This is the only plug on all the boards that is not plugged in.

    From previous experience, I had taken pictures of the boards & connectors prior to disassemble of the machine, however just my luck, the pictures did not clearly show the CN105 connector so I'm unable to tell by the pictures if this was connected or disconnected prior to disassembly. All I know is that right now, it takes having this connector unplugged in order for the machine to at least turn on.


    Next, after the machine fired up, all seemed well, so I tried making a color copy and it now codes out with a CE40 error.

    The bridge hasn't yet been connected but I don't think that is related to the CE40 error.

    Any ideas about the CN105 connector and the coding out issue CE40?

    This thing is a beast of frustration.

    Last edited by KPC; 12-04-2009 at 05:53 AM.

  10. #10
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    CE40 is unrelated to the Bridge and should be unrelated to CN105. CN105 is for the System Board Cooling fan. It's a two wire fan but still needs to be plugged in after the machine is put back together. I don't have a machine to look at right now but the fact that with it plugged in the machine is just dead to me says that either the wiring to the fan is shorted to ground somewhere or that the wrong connector is plugged into CN105. Usually it's pretty hard to put the wrong plug in since they are pretty obvious. I think the fan is mounted on the metal plate (again don't have a machine in front of me. The machine should fire up without the fan fine since it's a two wire.
    The CE40 is basically saying the machine is running it's quality loop and doesn't like what it sees for some reason. (The trouble shooting section will help you narrow it down.) The sensor related is in the middle right underneath the belt at the side of 2nd Transfer (right hand door.) Take the belt out and you'll see the sensor covered by a shutter controlled by a solenoid (this can also be an issue.) You might just have to blow the sensor out with some air.

    If CE40 is becasue of copy quality you can ... Set 08 556/557 to 0 and run some mono color copies and black copies to see what kind of image problems you have. Correct those problems and set 556/7 back to 1 to enable the loop and see if it will complete the loop with 05-395.


    I really can't remember easily being able to plug the wrong connector in especially on a fan so I think you have a short to ground on that sucker or the fan is shorted out and needs to be replaced or something.


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