Print problem on Xerox DC 2060

[Ignis]

Hello, I have Xerox DC 2060, until recently, the print was excellent, but now printing is a full lines of various thickness of 3-5 mm .. in all colors .. as the colors of the rainbow ..
These lines are at the longer side of the print ..
With time, more and more see these lines
100% CMYK printing is good, but Halftone is cloudy
I tried to replace two of four print catrigdes but there is no improvement.
Consumable parts are all ok status
What i need to do?
Thanks

Here are some samples in attachments:
umax104 copy.jpghalfton.jpgpunton.jpgumax105.jpg

[kalindd]

Clean or change corotron wires. All 4 of them. Problem should go away.

[Ignis]

Do I have something special to look when cleaning the coronas?
What is the best way to clean it?

[kalindd]

Nothing special.
It is the wire that you need to clean or better replace. It's up to you the find the better way to clean the wire without breaking it.

[kandod]

I clean the wire with a pinch of cotton soaked with ethyl alcohol and the grid with a piece of rubber.

[davidj7]

i suspect the corona wire and grid . I replace wires once a month and grid in 3 months . I run around 1000 prints a3 per day .

[jayc67]

Did you resolve your problem? I think that you have some photoreceptors to change too.

[AKSturb01]

Clean the corotron wires on all 4 imaging units. There are two wires on each unit except for black, which has three.

It's an easy task but a little time consuming:

Make sure machine is powered off. I also disconnect the mains.
Open the front covers
Move the levers to drop the IBT belt out of contact with the drums
Remove the three screws holding each imaging unit in the machine: one in the dead center of the imaging drum, two near the top of the plate with the handle. You may not have to completely remove the screws: just loosening them is usually enough.
Pull the handle and slide the whole imaging unit out of the machine on the rails.
Move the plastic lever on the left front of the unit all the way to the left to release the pressure on the imaging unit. It will pop out a little toward you.
Then you push on the toner auger at the end of the imaging unit moving it toward the front (VERY VERY GENTLY).
Then you can slide imaging unit toward the left of the sub-chassis to remove it and slide it out.

**NOTE THE POSITION OF THE KEYWAY PIN ON INBOARD END OF THE TONER AUGER. IT MUST BE IN THE SAME ORIENTATION WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE OR IT'S NO-GO. IE: THE PIN IS AT 9-3 O CLOCK** If you have problems at the end getting the unit all the way back in, that pin on the end of the auger is not mating up with the keyway deep inboard the machine. If you don't rotate the auger shaft, you shouldn't have a problem, but note it anyway.

Carefully take the imaging unit out of the chassis rails. Set it on a bench.

In all of this, TURN THE LIGHTS DOWN so you don't light-shock the drum, or use a dark plastic bag to cover the imaging unit. I turn the lights down as low as I can to work and use a small flashlight and I have never so far light-shocked my drums.

With a little inspection with a flashlight you will see how the various corotrons are held on the assembly. The charge corotron comes off pretty easily. The lower corotron, on the diametrical opposite side, is a little trickier and has to be pulled carefully out of the unit. The screen just snaps into place over the plastic tits. Just take your time and make sure you note the orientation of everything. Make sure you don't SCRATCH the drum removing the lower corotron wire assembly. If your 2060 is like my 2045, the Black imaging unit will have three wires on the assembly. The others will just have an empty bracket there.

You may be able to get away with just cleaning the charge (upper) corotron and the screen. I do all of them. Why mess around?

You can rotate the drum by hand in the direction of its normal rotation to tell if you have a doctor blade problem. Sometimes I replace the doctor blade at the same time if I am having fine streaking problems in the process direction on any of the units. Doctor blades and corotron wires are relatively cheap. Usually a doctor blade problem will manifest itself as some fine line streaking at the trailing edge of the sheet in the process direction as very faint lines where the blade is not cleaning toner from the drum on the 2nd or 3rd rotation.

WASH YOUR HANDS and get all the oil off your skin, or wear surgical gloves. I don't like surgical gloves because I miss the feel. There's nothing dangerous here, but your hands must be clean. Then proceed to clean the screens, wires, units, etc. I use isopropyl alcohol, lint-free cloths, occasionally a q-tip, and a little compressed air to dry (not too high!) Hold the screen up to a bright light and try to get any dust/gunk/hair/schmutz, etc., off of it as best you can.

Reassambly is the reverse. No tricks, just go slowly the first time.

Button everything up, power up the machine and run some test prints.

You can buy a set of 5 wires from D&R Products (google them) if you should break one.

I clean my corotrons whenever it's needed, usually after about 25,000-50,000 A4 clicks, but it really depends on how clean your environment is.

Once you do it the first time, it gets much easier/faster. I can do all four imaging units, all 9 wires + 4 screens, in about 1.25 hours now. Once a month, approximately. I've done it 4 times and only had to replace 1 wire (the very first time I cleaned all 4 I snapped one by accident).

This is "must do" maintenance on the 2045/2060. As long as you're careful it's not too bad. The only tools you really need are the magnetic Xerox Hex tool or equivalent, a phillips screwdriver, a dark plastic bag, some good isopropyl alcohol, q tips, some lint free cloth, and some way to dry the assemblies without spitting on them (heh) .

I use a big pyrex cooking plate with a little isopropyl alcohol at the bottom and gently brush the screens clean then rinse them with a little isopropyl alcohol and dry. Be careful NOT to bend the screens or put any kind of crease in the metal. Blow them dry with a hairdryer or (preferably) filtered compressed air.

There you go, hope that helps. It's an almost zero-cost job you just have to know what you're doing and it *instantly* restores the print quality as long as the banding is 90 degrees to the process direction. I usually run a few test prints afterward and then do a calibration with the X-Rite. If it is *in* the process direction, that's a totally different can of worms and usually means $$$$.

The first time you do this it will take several hours. The next time it will take two. The third time you'll be able to do it in about an hour, which isn't bad once a month or so.

[Ignis]

I manage to solve this problem, I clean coroton wires and grids with alcohol just the way you describe it.
Grids wear all covered with dust..they wear black..not silver..
and i accidently broke one wire..but i have one drum in spare..so i replace it.
Print is fine, but now i have one other problem..its not in connection with coroton wires becaus it has start even before.

First 5-6 print are fine, but after that on one side of paper (one to the back of the printer) some strange black stains are appearing..they are not same..but random stains.
Stains apear only if on that side of sheet is print, if i print only blank pages there are no any stains, or if print is only on "good" side (one close to front side of machine)
Stains are always dark, gray..
I don't know, but i suspect that this can cause fault blade on black drum or something is wrong with web cleaner on fuser
What are you guys thinking?

I have attached three pictures that describe me problem, so if you can help me, I shall be very grateful.
fail1.jpgfail2.jpgfail3.jpg

And what are these errors in PWS means? 006-649, 006-650, 006-651
Are they have anything to do with it? or this is something else?
fail4.jpg

[kingpd@businessprints.net]

Looks like the black drum cleaning blade should be cleaned or replaced, although there should be stains on both sides. Double check the fuser rollers to make sure they're clean.