My apologies for my previous attempt at formatting with the new editor. It's fighting me.
I'm having my best results by writing my posts in Microsoft Word, then cut/paste the results to the message window.
Back on topic: This came up on another thread, and I thought it deserved general attention. Many a tech I've worked with has created havoc on their own machines (and mine too). Did you ever have a tech that you wanted to take away his oiler? If he can see it, he oils it. Here are some guidelines for cleaning drive mechanisms. The short version is that each component must be treated in its own unique way.
1) Don’t hose down anything in WD-40.
2) Clean Bushings with orange-sol or alcohol. Clean the bore with a Q-tip & watch for ovalled out bushings.
a. Lubricate bronze bushings with light oil.
b. Leave plastic bushings in the fuser dry. The lubricant will collect particulate, and ultimately cause friction.
c. Other plastic bushings leave dry, but only lubricate if noisy with minimal light oil.
3) Gears: clean toner & gunk from the gear teeth and bore, with toothbrush, dental pick, & Q-tip. Lubricate bore with light oil. Run gear teeth dry, but if noisy use minimal white grease.
4) Clutches: There are a lot of different types of clutches and each must be cleaned in their own way. These are just a few common ones:
a. Electro-Magnetic clutches are intended to run dry. Clean these clutches with alcohol. Don't sand the plates. Remember this is a magnetic clutch, not a friction clutch. For the most magnetic attraction, you need the most surface contact. By sanding you lessen the surface contact. If clutch bushings are noisy place a drop of oil on your finger, wipe most of it off, then wipe what remains on the clutch bushings only (absolutely the least amount of oil). Excessive oil will migrate to clutch plates, and it will slip. Many of these clutches are not able to be disassembled. In a pinch I've soaked these clutches in a cap of alcohol, or folded over some paper and slipped it between the plates and added a few drops of alcohol to the paper. Then rotate the clutch to wipe off what gunk you can onto the paper
until the paper comes away clean.
b. Greaseable or Spring-Wrap clutches have a spring that tightly grips the inner hubs. The activation of the solenoid (or internal electrical coil) releases the ratchet holding one end of the spring to drive the desired roller. These clutches can be cleaned with orange-sol or alcohol. The spring is then greased with IBM23 grease (each manufacturer has it's own specific recommended lubricant, but IBM23 is a good general purpose clutch grease). The solenoid can be cleaned with alcohol, then operated dry. Never oil a solenoid. There were some early Canon pickup clutches that used a plastic spring wrap clutch. These worked best with Marvel Mystery Oil as a lubricant.
c. Torque Limiters in the early machines were usually of the greaseable /spring-wrap variety and treated just like those clutches. Most modern torque limiters are a plastic sleeve filled with developer, and a magnetic core. These run completely dry. Oil will turn the developer mixture into something like concrete. Usually the plastic case will crack and start to leak metal particles, and require replacement.
d. One-Way Clutches or Bearings are intended to be oiled. When turned in one direction the cylindrical bearings grip the shaft to drive, when turned in the other direction it slips on the shaft. Two things can go wrong with these. The oil can dry up or the chromed shaft may wear down. You can clean the one-way bearing with alcohol, then lubricate with light oil. If you notice the shaft is worn try running the cleaned bearing to see if it slips. Sometimes you can shim the one-way bearing up or down the shaft slightly to grip an unworn portion of shaft. If it still slips a temporary fix is to slightly knurl the shaft with sandpaper. But it's only temporary. You'll have to replace the shaft and one-way bearing.
e. Leather disk or strap torque limiters are used to take up gear lash, and to stabilize image registration on some of the older Mita’s & Sharp’s (maybe others). Once disassembled you can clean the metal hubs or metal disks with alcohol. The leather cannot be cleaned or oiled.
There are many other components I haven't addressed. Please add to my list.
I guess my point here is there is no general rule for mechanical components. If you don't know what it is, don't bath it in oil.
*stepping down off of his soapbox* =^..^=
I'm having my best results by writing my posts in Microsoft Word, then cut/paste the results to the message window.
Back on topic: This came up on another thread, and I thought it deserved general attention. Many a tech I've worked with has created havoc on their own machines (and mine too). Did you ever have a tech that you wanted to take away his oiler? If he can see it, he oils it. Here are some guidelines for cleaning drive mechanisms. The short version is that each component must be treated in its own unique way.
1) Don’t hose down anything in WD-40.
2) Clean Bushings with orange-sol or alcohol. Clean the bore with a Q-tip & watch for ovalled out bushings.
a. Lubricate bronze bushings with light oil.
b. Leave plastic bushings in the fuser dry. The lubricant will collect particulate, and ultimately cause friction.
c. Other plastic bushings leave dry, but only lubricate if noisy with minimal light oil.
3) Gears: clean toner & gunk from the gear teeth and bore, with toothbrush, dental pick, & Q-tip. Lubricate bore with light oil. Run gear teeth dry, but if noisy use minimal white grease.
4) Clutches: There are a lot of different types of clutches and each must be cleaned in their own way. These are just a few common ones:
a. Electro-Magnetic clutches are intended to run dry. Clean these clutches with alcohol. Don't sand the plates. Remember this is a magnetic clutch, not a friction clutch. For the most magnetic attraction, you need the most surface contact. By sanding you lessen the surface contact. If clutch bushings are noisy place a drop of oil on your finger, wipe most of it off, then wipe what remains on the clutch bushings only (absolutely the least amount of oil). Excessive oil will migrate to clutch plates, and it will slip. Many of these clutches are not able to be disassembled. In a pinch I've soaked these clutches in a cap of alcohol, or folded over some paper and slipped it between the plates and added a few drops of alcohol to the paper. Then rotate the clutch to wipe off what gunk you can onto the paper
until the paper comes away clean.
b. Greaseable or Spring-Wrap clutches have a spring that tightly grips the inner hubs. The activation of the solenoid (or internal electrical coil) releases the ratchet holding one end of the spring to drive the desired roller. These clutches can be cleaned with orange-sol or alcohol. The spring is then greased with IBM23 grease (each manufacturer has it's own specific recommended lubricant, but IBM23 is a good general purpose clutch grease). The solenoid can be cleaned with alcohol, then operated dry. Never oil a solenoid. There were some early Canon pickup clutches that used a plastic spring wrap clutch. These worked best with Marvel Mystery Oil as a lubricant.
c. Torque Limiters in the early machines were usually of the greaseable /spring-wrap variety and treated just like those clutches. Most modern torque limiters are a plastic sleeve filled with developer, and a magnetic core. These run completely dry. Oil will turn the developer mixture into something like concrete. Usually the plastic case will crack and start to leak metal particles, and require replacement.
d. One-Way Clutches or Bearings are intended to be oiled. When turned in one direction the cylindrical bearings grip the shaft to drive, when turned in the other direction it slips on the shaft. Two things can go wrong with these. The oil can dry up or the chromed shaft may wear down. You can clean the one-way bearing with alcohol, then lubricate with light oil. If you notice the shaft is worn try running the cleaned bearing to see if it slips. Sometimes you can shim the one-way bearing up or down the shaft slightly to grip an unworn portion of shaft. If it still slips a temporary fix is to slightly knurl the shaft with sandpaper. But it's only temporary. You'll have to replace the shaft and one-way bearing.
e. Leather disk or strap torque limiters are used to take up gear lash, and to stabilize image registration on some of the older Mita’s & Sharp’s (maybe others). Once disassembled you can clean the metal hubs or metal disks with alcohol. The leather cannot be cleaned or oiled.
There are many other components I haven't addressed. Please add to my list.
I guess my point here is there is no general rule for mechanical components. If you don't know what it is, don't bath it in oil.
*stepping down off of his soapbox* =^..^=
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