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First of all thank you so much for the answers!
Like you guessed i can see the developer can be worn out, got those machines with already some copies on them and I haven't replaced developer yet
What is the meter read on the copier? Definitely sounds like the Developer material is worn out and needs to be replaced.
250k and 360k, I bet they passed PM by a lot, but like I said before, I supposed previous tecnichan got them in good shape before handling to me
You say you re-built the fuser, and I'm going to assume that you're not getting fuser codes because you would say so. Even if the fuser is at the proper temperature, you still need several other things for the toner to fuse: 1) Even Pressure all the way across the heat roller: you must have pressure from the pressure roller, or it won't fuse. 2) Media Settings: If you're using 300gsm media or glossy media, and the machine is still set to Plain media type the image won't fuse. The fuser will not get hot enough for heavy media, and it won't slow down the process enough for the image to fuse.
1) Pressure is ok, like your last post i saw a lot of those and sometimes repaired with a paper clip and 2 holes, it worked for me, but this was not the case
2) Printing on normal paper, customer don't use any other type of paper, just 75g or 80g when feeling fancy
First and most important do you use original toner?
Legit question, but i've already seen hell with ricoh and kyocera using compatible toner, I will never use that.
I will try replacing developer in the next day and leave un update when done.
Is the Fuser Unit housing intact on both machines? They tend to crack where the screws (two screws in total) keeps together the pressure and the 'hot' roller units that forms the entire fuser unit. I used to improvise until new housing is replaced. The pressure roller metal arm should have 3 holes in it where you can adjust the pressure by inserting the pressure spring in a different hole - on both sides same time.
It's not my most elegant MacGuyver, but 100% effective, and lasted as long as I needed it to. As these Loires near extinction it will get harder to get frames:
NOTE: There is not enough gap behind the fuser at the rear to wrap the coathanger around the frame, so it J-hooks into a drilled hole. Just be careful where you drill. There are lamps, wires, bearings ... all things that that work better if there were no extra holes in them. =^..^=
Is the Fuser Unit housing intact on both machines? They tend to crack where the screws (two screws in total) keeps together the pressure and the 'hot' roller units that forms the entire fuser unit. I used to improvise until new housing is replaced. The pressure roller metal arm should have 3 holes in it where you can adjust the pressure by inserting the pressure spring in a different hole - on both sides same time.
First and most important do you use original toner?
If no good luck with that.
If answer is yes and developer is within life I would try to rise fuser temp by 10 degrees.
However if that settles your toner fixing problem your fuser life may be negatively affected...
Like SalesServiceGuy suggests, if the image is gray or very light, the image on the paper may be formed by developer, not toner. Developer is a light gray color, a little finer than sand and won't fuse at 180C.
You say you re-built the fuser, and I'm going to assume that you're not getting fuser codes because you would say so. Even if the fuser is at the proper temperature, you still need several other things for the toner to fuse:
1) Even Pressure all the way across the heat roller: you must have pressure from the pressure roller, or it won't fuse.
2) Media Settings: If you're using 300gsm media or glossy media, and the machine is still set to Plain media type the image won't fuse. The fuser will not get hot enough for heavy media, and it won't slow down the process enough for the image to fuse.
Hello, first time posting a question here, this forum helped me a lot but this time I cannot find any answer.
I have 2 toshiba e-studio 457 with the same problem, can't fuse toner properly, I mean, when i touch the printed page toner goes off and can feel the text under my finger.
Tried to search the manual for a troubleshooting and common problem on this but didn't find anything.
Tried replacing parts, pressure roller, hot roller, thermistors without success.
I don't know what to do or if it is a common problem and I'm missing something.
Forgive my bad english and if any other info is needed i'll try to reply as fast as i can.
Thank you so much!
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