Canon IR6000 E0003, E0001

[Desert Rat]

About three weeks ago it gave an E0003-0000 code. I cleared it
and ran appox 200 pages. No troubles. The customer mentioned that the
front door was open for a while. I noticed that the A/C was blowing on
the area of the fuser when openned. I adjusted the vent to blow away
from the machine and ran more copies. No toruble.
Last thursday the machine displalyed an E0001-0000. I went over and
changed the two thermistors and the thermostat. After that the machine
would not warm up to ready. The temp got to about 170c. I heard a
click in the back and it began to cool. I saw both lamps come on bright.
I checked the connectors for paper, none found. I scrapped, very carefully, the contacts with my knife. I also cleaned the high voltage
spade connectors to the lamps. Ohmed the lamp (4.5ohms) and checked
the wiring. I did not see anything odd in the connectors on the back of the fuser. I happen to check the alarm log the only code I saw was
020002 0000. This machine has logged serveral of these over the last
2-3 months.
Has anyone else seen or heard of something like this happening?
I have not defined the alarm code yet.

Thanks

Any help appreciated

DR

[Guest]

About three weeks ago it gave an E0003-0000 code. I cleared it
and ran approx 200 pages. No troubles. The customer mentioned that the
front door was open for a while. I noticed that the A/C was blowing on
the area of the user when opened. I adjusted the vent to blow away
from the machine and ran more copies. No trouble.
Last Thursday the machine displayed an E0001-0000. I went over and
changed the two thermistors and the thermostat. After that the machine
would not warm up to ready. The temp got to about 170c. I heard a
click in the back and it began to cool. I saw both lamps come on bright.
I checked the connectors for paper, none found. I scrapped, very carefully, the contacts with my knife. I also cleaned the high voltage
spade connectors to the lamps. Ahmed the lamp (4.5ohms) and checked
the wiring. I did not see anything odd in the connectors on the back of the fuser. I happen to check the alarm log the only code I saw was
020002 0000. This machine has logged several of these over the last
2-3 months.
Has anyone else seen or heard of something like this happening?
I have not defined the alarm code yet.

Thanks

Any help appreciated

DR

Try adding some shims on the fixing ass'y connectors, the shims are those gold plated small washers. This will help those male and female connectors make contact a little better, also check wires for any pinches, cut wires ties on the wires that trace to the dc from those terminal connectors. Check the leads on those lamps as well. Worst case scenario you might have to replaced the power supply or Dc controller. Good luck.

[Desert Rat]

Thank you screwtape,
From what I have seen on the Canons almost all the tie wraps look
to tight. Someone else mentioned shims too. After re-reading my post
I see I forgot to mention one last symptom. And I believe it points
at the connector. The red error lite on the panel would lite. I open the
front door and the message to reset unit 1 was displayed. Sometimes
it would go off by resetting unit1 other times I would cycle the pwr sw.

Thanks

DR

[mujibur]

E002

E003

E004

Main Cause The SSR has a short circuit. The DC controller PCB is faulty.
Mode of
Detection
0000 The SSR used to drive the fixing heater is found to have a short circuit
(hard circuit detection).

Caution The error must be reset in se

[20YRSEXP]

I have seen where the rails the drawer rides on can cause issues like this. If the rails are either loose or fatigued they will sag and cause poor contact.

[Guest]

I can see how the two problems can relate to a E003. Have you check the micro switch(MSW3)-J271 on the DC. The switch is by the fixing feeder frame ass'y handle, the green one. If you look in parts catalog, its figure 320, item 36.

[Desert Rat]

,
Screwtape, 20yrsexp and mujibur,
Thank you for your replys. Yesterday I happen to check that MSW3
switch. When closed, after the click, if I moved the actuator within
the space after the click, I could get several different readings.
From 8 ohms to 112. My meter isn't very fast on the display. But enough
that I could see a problem. It should be open or closed.
Droopy rails. Sometimes I forget to check the screws and make sure they
are tight. The drawer slides in and out easily and I did shim the fuser
connector toward the female connector in the back.
How much can one shim that connector? I used washers about 1mm thick, maybe slightly more.

Thanks for your time

DR

[Desert Rat]

I forgot to ask about the frequency of replacement for that switch?
And what about that fuser connector relay board? I noticed that
it is buried in under the exit path. How much trouble has that caused
in the past?

DR

[Desert Rat]

I did not get the switch. But I made a shorting plug so the machine
would think the switch is in the closed position, and think the unit 1 is
closed.
Didn't work. Same symptoms. Each time I can see the I/O display for
that switch MSW3 change states. It never starts to run to complete
the warm up cycle.
A friend mentioned the duplex tray can cause odd problems. In this model
the duplex tray is part of unit 1. I will have to check that tomorrow.

Something to think about

DR

[Canuck]

Is upper fuser roll in good shape? I've seen them wear in the area where end thermistor "rides" on. Thermistor touches bare aluminum. When you changed the thermistor(main) did you change the assembly that holds it...I've seen it when the thermistor translates back and forth on the upper fuser roll, it will lift off the roller. Usually just gotta clean fuser oil(web) from spring and assembly. It sounds more like you have a drawer problem. Use a spring hook and re-bend the pins/tabs in the connector. Hope you put in correct thermistors..Main...FH7-7529...Sub...FG5-8812. There is also a fixing/feeder connector pcb...FG6-4979....under the fuser.

[20YRSEXP]

Speaking of micro switches. The micro switch that the multifeed door actuates has been known to cause strange problems. For that matter anything running on 24v that has a problem can interfere with signals. If you are hearing a click in the back just before it shuts down I would check... I think it is called relay3, it can have problems and that is where the charge to the lamps runs through.

[20YRSEXP]

After doing some reading I think it is the main relay you want, but don't forget the AC Driver. The fuser voltages run from there.

[Desert Rat]

20YERSEXP & Canuck,
Thanks for the replies.
Canuck, the upper roller is not new, but is not worn to the point that you describe, the machine nevers starts rotation from a cold start. That main
thermistor assy is free of dirt and oil and both thermistors are on the roller.
I checked the p/n's and they are the ones that you listed.
I will go their today and check to see if the FFUS* signal changes at the
DC Controller connector.
20Yrsexp, I noticed that relay connector board in the diagrams. I could
not see it from above or below. It must be buried in there somewhere.
I will have a look for that relay 3 and the fuser connector board.
If that relay 3 is the cause, what would cause the FFUS* signal to change
states if the connector on the switch is shorted?
As far as the 24vdc line, that would be some kind of electrical noise on the
line. What is the most common cause? On the analog kodaks some of the
24v motors have been known to mask inputs to the cpu board. Same
principle I would think?
Any thoughts on the duplex tray confusing the cpu?

Thanks for time and help

DR

[20YRSEXP]

MSW3 goes thru the fixing/feeder relay PCB. If the switch is changing to open and it's not the switch it could be that PCB. I've known it to have trouble, not often but it's not out of the question. If FFUS is not going to open I would check the relay 1 signal and see if it goes to off when you hear the click. If it does not go to off it could be a bad main relay. If these both check out I would go back to changing the DC con. But remember the AC driver can cause all those codes also. If you have all the boards in stock head out with B.O.B (box of boards) and just replace what you need.

[Desert Rat]

It is up and running,
The last three things I did were, remove the fuser tray and tighten the rail
screws. The left side had some wiggle. All of the screws needed to be
snugged down. As long as the tray was out, I started to loosen the wire
harness on my way to the relay board. I also reseated connectors on the
way in. I did remove a few loose staples on the way.
I put the old bad switch back in and it warmed up and ran a couple
hundred copies. No trouble.

Thank you everyone for your time, expertise and effort in helping to
solve this problem for me. I count this board as one of my best tech
resourses. I do have some other questions but I have to get out the
door this AM.

Thanks again

DR