If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
On the NP2020s thru NP6221 you may have a blown halogen exposure lamp.
More likely though is an open lamp harnass. This is how you troubleshoot it:
Follow the lamp harnass leads back to where they go through the rear frame. On this one I believe the lamp harnass plugs directly into the lamp regulator PCB (viewing from the back: top left). Insert meter leads onto the back of the connector. Set meter to range ~65vdc. While powering up, watch the meter for correct voltage to the lamp (~50 to 75vdc is acceptable). Run a copy if you didn't error out. If your lamp voltage is there, the lamp regulator is good.
Next power off. Unplug the lamp harnass from the lamp regulator PCB, & meter across the terminals of the lamp. You can expect ~4 ohms if it is good, infinity if blown.
Next check the thermal fuse. You should get 0 ohms (0.001 on a digital meter is fine) If infinity, the Thermal Fuse is blown.
Next check the same resistance measurement across the terminal ends of the lamp harnass that you just unplugged. If you were getting ~4 ohms before and now infinity, you have a break in the harnass.
If the lamp is blown, its probably just normal wear & tear.
If the thermal fuse is open, check that the fan filters are not clogged, & the optical squirrel cage fan is running quietly. Often the optical cavity can build up heat when the filters are clogged or the fan can stop running intermittently.
If the harnass has a break just replace it. I have temporarily soldered these breaks and wrapped them in friction tape, and you may get (100) copies or just (1) copy before it breaks again in the same place. Its a waste of time to try the solder repair.
I've never seen a bad lamp regulator PCB on one of these.
Enjoy!
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
Thank you very much for your reply. Very informative! I checked the resistance of the lamp and it is indeed open. Also I checked the output of the pcb and got about 700 millivolts. When I switched the meter to ac I got around 99.8 volt ac. Maybe a bad rectifier?
My mistake. AC not DC. 99VAC is just fine. Thanks for keeping me honest. Incidentally, when the lamp fails it gets brighter before burning out. Consequently, the copies will probably be a little dark. You can adjust the lamp intensity on the slide resistor just inside the front door, top left.
Last edited by blackcat4866; 10-23-2007, 01:38 AM.
Reason: I just can't shut up, I guess...
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
OK. Great! Hey, thanks alot for your help blackcat. I was pretty close to scraping the copier out for parts. Alot of neat stuff in these machines.
I'll pick up a lamp tomarrow and try it. I'll post the result. Thanks again!
Incidently, when I first started messing with this machine I noticed that right before the error code would flash I could hear a relay snap in. I took one of the coil wires off so I could see if the rest of the machine worked. (I guess I just can't leave well enough alone.) Anyway, it did try to copy but just they were totaly dark. I hope I didn't mess anything else up by doing this.
No, you wouldn't have done any damage by disconnecting the relay. I hope you didn't touch the halogen lamp. You must clean it with alcohol if touched. Congratulations!
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
I was very careful to only handle the ceramic ends.
Once again thanks for your help, blackcat. By the way if you have time could you post a short explanation of how this copier works? The first copies I made came out a little light on one side of the copy. I pulled what I think is the toner cartridge out and leveled out the toner and it copied more uniformly. Over the past few days I have got to know my one man's junk is my treasure machine pretty well on the inside, but have never owned a copier or a printer for that matter that uses toner, and have no idea how the process works from start to finish. I am so happy to have this working as I am making prototype pcb's in my garage with the toner transfer system and only lacked the laser printer. Thanks for your help.
The "light at rear" is typical for a NP-6221. When installing a toner cartridge, you hold the cartridge down firmly than pull off the seal. As a result 2/3 of the toner ends up in the front of the cartridge, 1/3 in the back. The agitation bars don't redistribute the toner very much. I've recommended to customers to level out the toner with a plastic lunch spoon.
As for copy process, I'll try to make this as brief as possible:
1) Primary Charging: The primary charger applies an even static charge to the entire surface of the drum.
2) Exposure: The exposure lamp reflects light off the original, reflected by mirrors #1, #2, #3, through the lens (to reverse the image), reflects off mirror #4, through slit glass onto the organic photoconductor (drum). Since this is an analog copier, the light exposes the white areas of the copy, causing those areas of the drum to discharge.
3) Development: Toner is attracted from the suface of the developing roller to the charged areas of the drum. Its more like throwing toner at the drum thousands of times per second, and it only sticks to the charged areas.
4) Transfer: When the paper passes below the drum, the charge corona wire attracts the toner to the paper.
5) Separation: The separation static eliminator releases the toner & paper from the drum.
6) Fusing: The fuser applies heat (190C) and pressure to melt the toner into the fibers of the paper.
7) Cleaning: The rubber cleaning blade wipes off any remaining toner on the drum surface (the transfer process is not 100% efficient). A bank of neon lamps discharges the surface of the drum. Due to the small drum size the drum must be charged/discharged 4-5 times to image a letter size piece of paper.
That's the short version. There's a whole lot more to it, but that's the basics.
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
If you'd like a serious answer to your request:
1) demonstrate that you've read the manual
2) demonstrate that you made some attempt to fix it.
3) if you're going to ask about jams include the jam code.
4) if you're going to ask about an error code include the error code.
5) You are the person onsite. Only you can make observations.
NP3050 is notorious for light at one end also,usually the rear.I've put ty-wraps around the agitation rods and just left a little "tail" on them about 1/4 inch long..this seems to stir the toner better..i've darken 3050 and others by putting toner in a bag and shaking it to recharge the toner
Comment