bizub C554e, J3003 and J3205 jams

[blackcat4866]

The first thing I noticed when rolling in my tools is the windows 8' tall by 25' wide, with a southern exposure, and the sun blazing in so brightly that I walked into a desk.

While my temporary blindness was receding, I was immediately reminded of a dentists office I had visited 15 years ago, that had glass on three sides, and the same 1 million watts of direct sunlight blazing in. That Mita DC1255 copier had had it's 3rd drum in a week. The blazing sunlight had found a crevice, through a rear fan opening and was light shocking the selenium tellurium drum for several hours each day. The fix, if you're curious was a miscellaneous cup shaped plastic cover I had lying around that fit over the vent and was glued on, with openings at the top and bottom to let the air flow.

The bizhub jammed every page exiting the fuser. For diagnostic purposes I tried covering the fan openings, but it still jammed. It took nearly 30 minutes out of the direct sunlight before the exit sensor PS3 started to respond correctly. My fix for this one was equally unorthodox. You may recognize the piece of bumper sticker that I placed, shielding light away from PS3 and the duplex sensor. It's small enough that it should not inhibit airflow. With the MFP rolled back in place, it worked like a charm.

30671

=^..^=

[blackcat4866]

Ok. They called back. The sunlight was bright ... but apparently not that bright.

The tech in between convinced the enduser to relocate the machine to a darker corner. By the time I arrived the jam code had changed to J3201 only when duplexing. On a whim I called the other tech and asked if maybe he had swapped photointerrupters PS3 for PS40. As a matter of fact he had swapped those two interrupters.


Since it was happening consistently, I swapped PS40 for the tray #1 PE sensor. Duplexing now works, and tray #1 shows paper full when it's empty. I was able to find a photointerrupter and resolved it right then. Curiously Konica Minolta has changed the replacement photointerrupter. I think this is the first failed KM photointerrupter that I've seen. =^..^=

[EarthKmTech]

I think this is the first failed KM photointerrupter that I've seen. =^..^=

The ones I commonly replace are physically broken, ie the ones at the back of trays on some machines for width detection.

legitimately electrically failed ? only ones I've ever experienced have always been around the fusing units which is a very harsh environment and understandable.

[habik]

I'd like to add that Photointerrupters I had very few failed. What I did notice is on the new E and non E series they sometimes just need couple of times disconnect>reconnect. Not sure if the connection resistantce varies on harness side or PI side, but few times it saved me on Finishers. On C203 series I change Reg sensor+Flag+Clutch as a set for example, regardless if the sensor is OK or Not.

[blackcat4866]

... legitimately electrically failed? ...

Intermittent, but yes, electronic failure. The thing that threw me at first is the different voltages than nearly any other manufacturer uses. Ground to 1.27vdc supply, 0.02 low signal to 3.37 high signal. Nearly every other sensor I've looked at in the last dozen years is ground to 5.0vdc supply, and 0.01 low signal to 5.0vdc high signal.

And yes, quite a few are heat induced failures like proximity to the fuser heat, or just wallowing in fuser oil. We seem to be on the downhill run regarding the last two years of "Sharp 73" sensor failures common on Toshiba, Sharp, Canon, and a lot of other manufacturers.


I'd like to add that Photointerrupters I had very few failed. What I did notice is on the new E and non E series they sometimes just need couple of times disconnect>reconnect. Not sure if the connection resistantce varies on harness side or PI side, but few times it saved me on Finishers. On C203 series I change Reg sensor+Flag+Clutch as a set for example, regardless if the sensor is OK or Not.

Just keep in mind that the Sharp 73 sensor failures are logic lockups. Here's a good example: It was on an Ablabama series like the Toshiba eS655. The enduser had had a jam and cleared it, but the error did not clear because the door photointerrupter would not change state. The message continued to read "Open right door." even when the door was opened. I did not have a sensor on hand at the time, so I unplugged the sensor and plugged it back in. The doorswitch changed states and resumed functioning for a few more days until I could return with the spare.
=^..^=

[kingarthur]

installed a brand new C224e 2 weeks ago, 2nd day got calls for misfeeds, was stopping at the exit, swapped over the paper exit & duplex sensor, confirmed it was the exit sensor as it then wouldn't duplex, I can count on one hand the amount of sensors I've had to replace in 37 years....

[blackcat4866]

Here's another cause for 30-03 jams, I'm just wondering how unusual it really is. This machine has been averaging 125K per month. I don't think I've ever seen quite this much toner built up on the fuser exit guide on this model:

32611

=^..^=

[JR2ALTA]

Yes, this usually appears first as a crease down the entire page.

[Ben.Imagistx]

I know this is an old post, but I figured that I would chime in and offer another possibility. In a situation where a machine jams intermittently and displays the J30-03 code make sure that there is nothing compressing the springs on either side of the transfer roller. I imagine if those springs were damaged, or otherwise malformed the same error and symptoms would occur. I discovered this by accident after a well meaning sales person prepped the machine for assembly (removed tape, foam, etc.), but forgot to remove one of the metal brackets that Konica uses to keep the springs locked down during shipping. Just a heads up!

[printerguy77]

Once again just a new point on these jam codes. Also was getting 3201 jams. Only thing was that this was very intermittent. Could sometimes get 300 sheets between jams. Most common was 3003. Tried all the usual mods etc. Last thing I tried was looking at PS3 and ps40. When I tried to disconnect them they basically disintegrated in my hand. This was in a non e version and as they are both located just above the fuser they were heat eroded. Swapped them both and problem gone.

Keep it real.