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818tech
06-27-2016, 06:42 PM
Everybody is new.

Hey guys, I'm running out of Drum Dusting Powder. And i happen to lost the plastic bag where it said the model and part number.
When i service/replace the Drum Cylinder, I'm using a Katun Brand Dusting Powder for my Konica Minolta/Imagistic Bizhub 600/IM-6020.

I Just don't remember if it was the Kynar Dusting Powder or the Zinc Stearate Powder.
I called my local suppliers, the seniors are gone and no one knows about the good stuff anymore. :(

Anyone uses the same thing?
or any inputs would be greatly appreciated... :D

One local supplier advice me to use a yellow toner. any konica minolta will do?
whats your say?

and another local supplier told me to just use the black toner for that machine...
reactions please?

btw... both Katun powders are same use for some except.

Kynar Dusting Powder #707200: Recommended for Lubricating OPCs, Selenium alloy and a-SI photoreceptors.
Versus
Zinc Stearate Dusting Powder #707321: Recommended for lubricating selenium alloy only.

Questions is, What kind of Drum Cylinder is a DR-710 [(02XL) US] [(02XH) EU]. :confused:

Thanks for your time guys! :)

qbert69
06-27-2016, 07:16 PM
Everybody is new.

Hey guys, I'm running out of Drum Dusting Powder. And i happen to lost the plastic bag where it said the model and part number.
When i service/replace the Drum Cylinder, I'm using a Katun Brand Dusting Powder for my Konica Minolta/Imagistic Bizhub 600/IM-6020.

I Just don't remember if it was the Kynar Dusting Powder or the Zinc Stearate Powder.
I called my local suppliers, the seniors are gone and no one knows about the good stuff anymore. :(

Anyone uses the same thing?
or any inputs would be greatly appreciated... :D

One local supplier advice me to use a yellow toner. any konica minolta will do?
whats your say?

and another local supplier told me to just use the black toner for that machine...
reactions please?

btw... both Katun powders are same use for some except.

Kynar Dusting Powder #707200: Recommended for Lubricating OPCs, Selenium alloy and a-SI photoreceptors.
Versus
Zinc Stearate Dusting Powder #707321: Recommended for lubricating selenium alloy only.

Questions is, What kind of Drum Cylinder is a DR-710 [(02XL) US] [(02XH) EU]. :confused:

Thanks for your time guys! :)

I don't service Konica, but I service Ricoh/Savin. I've always used Yellow toner!...it seems to have the lightest/finest consistency for this purpose! Just make sure that it is JUST toner and not the monotoner that has the developer mixed in it, such as Kyocera does. The drums I have used this yellow toner on are the OPC (Organic Photo Conductor) drums! I will say that Kyocera Amorphous Silicon Drums (diamond tough!) beat the shiznit out of OPC drums!

:cool:

Albonline
06-27-2016, 07:48 PM
Everybody is new.

Hey guys, I'm running out of Drum Dusting Powder. And i happen to lost the plastic bag where it said the model and part number.
When i service/replace the Drum Cylinder, I'm using a Katun Brand Dusting Powder for my Konica Minolta/Imagistic Bizhub 600/IM-6020.

I Just don't remember if it was the Kynar Dusting Powder or the Zinc Stearate Powder.
I called my local suppliers, the seniors are gone and no one knows about the good stuff anymore. :(

Anyone uses the same thing?
or any inputs would be greatly appreciated... :D

One local supplier advice me to use a yellow toner. any konica minolta will do?
whats your say?

and another local supplier told me to just use the black toner for that machine...
reactions please?

btw... both Katun powders are same use for some except.

Kynar Dusting Powder #707200: Recommended for Lubricating OPCs, Selenium alloy and a-SI photoreceptors.
Versus
Zinc Stearate Dusting Powder #707321: Recommended for lubricating selenium alloy only.

Questions is, What kind of Drum Cylinder is a DR-710 [(02XL) US] [(02XH) EU]. :confused:

Thanks for your time guys! :)



dr-710 is an opc type drum. toner works just fine but mess shows up more than the white powder.

JrTech
06-27-2016, 07:58 PM
I am not a big fan of PR but here is the link to the dusting powders. All of the part numbers you need are there to best choose what you need.

Dusting Powder | Precision Roller (http://www.precisionroller.com/category/dusting-powder.htm)

Hope this helps

allan
06-27-2016, 08:09 PM
You don't need to dust this drum.
Use blade setting mode.

Set the cleaning blade away from the drum.
Run blade setting in service mode.
Set blade against the drum.

The machine covers the drum with an even layer of toner.

Issac-brock
06-27-2016, 08:11 PM
I agree with toner, the BH600 should have enough flying around the drum cavity to lube itself! Otherwise any powder should work I suppose. I don't have any but do have yellow toner that came with a BH1070 setup. good stuff.

copier addict
06-27-2016, 08:29 PM
I remember while on training for this machine the instructor specifically said to use dusting powder. The one he told us to use is Kynar.

allan
06-27-2016, 08:42 PM
You are right. Pity on me.:eek:

Guess the blades i get does have plenty of powder on them.
I have been thru plenty of these drums always gives good yield.
Drum yields 800K+ on an original and about 500K on good 3de party drums.

Yellow toner it shall be.

Issac-brock
06-27-2016, 09:00 PM
You don't need to dust this drum.
Use blade setting mode.

Set the cleaning blade away from the drum.
Run blade setting in service mode.
Set blade against the drum.

The machine covers the drum with an even layer of toner.

Oh ya, been a while since I worked on this model, I recall the blade setting method now. Right you are, works well too.

copier addict
06-27-2016, 09:21 PM
The service manual also specifies the use of setting powder on both the drum and cleaning blade before doing the blade setting in service mode.

copyman
06-27-2016, 11:27 PM
Toner has always been fine to lube blade for me on that series, di-5510, biz 600/601, etc. As well as using the blade setting mode.


Issac-brock (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/members/issac-brock.html) your reply was funny :D

818tech
09-18-2016, 10:13 PM
Thanks a bunch for all the input guys,
if my recollection is correct, i think i was using Kynar from Katun.

On the side note, who cares what the manual says if your a senior tech right? hehehehe...
but maybe for me i'll just stick to the manual for now...
that to coat the Toner Guide Recycling Roller, the Cleaning Blade and The Drum before running the Drum Pecu...

But i will keep in mind about the toners as substitute.

Thanks again everyone!!! :D:D:D

copyman
09-18-2016, 10:48 PM
If I remember the cleaning roller & blade are loaded with setting powder right out of the box. Can't imagine how much more would be needed. That plus the setting mode has always worked for me. Never a blade flip.

If I remove the process unit to clean in between PM's, etc I always use a light coating of toner on the blade then do setting mode and rest of peculiarly adjustments.

I haven't used setting powder in several years. One less thing I have to breathe. Don't care what anyone says that shit can't be good for you. Besides I had enough white shit go up my nose back in my party days:cool:

blackcat4866
09-18-2016, 11:09 PM
Not that they need much additional priming, but I got in the habit quite a long time ago to hand prime every blade with a scrape of toner from the side of the previous blade, then turn it by hand through a few revolutions, just in case, perchance you get distracted and forget to run the blade setting mode. I've had it happen a couple times when PMing a machine with help, that noone ends up priming the blade.

"Didn't you prime the blade?"
"No, I only installed the drum. You rebuilt the cleaning unit. You mean you didn't prime the drum?"

With all the toner blowing around in a 600 there won't be any lack of toner, that's for sure.

=^..^=

Woxner
09-18-2016, 11:16 PM
i never use powder on these. never have never will i just used the blade setting mode. if you use the wrong powder it will kill the dev

copyman
09-19-2016, 12:32 AM
Hey blackcat, I thought I was the only one using toner from the back side of old blade and also turn drum each way back and forth a little until it feels smooth in the direction drum will be turning. I will probably regret saying this but I haven't had a blade flip for a very long time. If it works leave it alone....

818tech
09-19-2016, 01:51 AM
...hey guys,

Different topic same category.

I recently did a Full PM on the machine bh-600. Copy Count: 1.2 Million Copies.
Brand New: Developer Unit, Developer Powder, Drum Cylinder, Cleaning Blade, Toner Recycling Roller Unit, Main Charger Unit, Transfer/Separation Unit, Fuser Web. (Except TCSB).
After 13,000 copies, copies are getting dirty on the lower (bottom) edge of the paper (portrait orientation only). Like toner spots/or droppings, sometimes when there's a lot, you can actually wipe it off like a smudge.
And the droppings are very little but makes the copies dirty .

I do have another identical machine that drops more toner/developer on the top of the T/S Unit Front & Rear, but it doesn't make the copies dirty.

Which of the Charging (High Voltage) adjustment i should play around?
or is there another way or adjustment to control the dropping of the toner/developer?

oh temporary solution:
I did overhauled the Process Unit, Vacuumed out the toner below the blade and wiped the lower end of the developer unit (the side that meets the drum), and did the Drum Pecu... (Auto only).

I haven't done any manual adjustment on these machine myself.

still dropping, but no dirty copies for the moment.

Thanks in advance!

818tech
09-19-2016, 01:53 AM
i never use powder on these. never have never will i just used the blade setting mode. if you use the wrong powder it will kill the dev

is this maybe the reason why after 13K of brand new everything I'm getting toner/developer droppings on top of the T/S Unit?

blackcat4866
09-19-2016, 01:56 AM
The only machines that seemed really prone to flipping blades were the Sharp AR-160, AR-161, AR-162 series. If you could manage to get through the first 4K or 5K copies after the new blade it would be OK. It didn't seem to matter what prime, what blade, what brand drum. I'm very glad to see those machines gone. =^..^=

818tech
09-19-2016, 01:56 AM
If I remember the cleaning roller & blade are loaded with setting powder right out of the box. Can't imagine how much more would be needed. That plus the setting mode has always worked for me. Never a blade flip.

If I remove the process unit to clean in between PM's, etc I always use a light coating of toner on the blade then do setting mode and rest of peculiarly adjustments.

I haven't used setting powder in several years. One less thing I have to breathe. Don't care what anyone says that shit can't be good for you. Besides I had enough white shit go up my nose back in my party days:cool:


thank you Mr. Copyman, same sentiments here. For the setting powder, i use them when i overhaul the Process Unit due to dirty copies and the parts are still under it's life. or if I'm not ready to replace them. :D

blackcat4866
09-19-2016, 01:58 AM
is this maybe the reason why after 13K of brand new everything I'm getting toner/developer droppings on top of the T/S Unit?

No, it's because it's a 600. You'll get to shovel out the S/T unit every visit. It's a toner-dumping machine. =^..^=

818tech
09-19-2016, 02:01 AM
Hey blackcat, I thought I was the only one using toner from the back side of old blade and also turn drum each way back and forth a little until it feels smooth in the direction drum will be turning. I will probably regret saying this but I haven't had a blade flip for a very long time. If it works leave it alone....

Mr. Copyman, what is your trick to have a clean safe transfer of toner powder from and old blade to a used drum per say? like how do you coat them nicely? :D
I wanted to ask on how to transfer to a blade, but i just realized, new blade comes with setting powder already...

blackcat4866
09-19-2016, 02:06 AM
Mr. Copyman, what is your trick to have a clean safe transfer of toner powder from and old blade to a used drum per say? like how do you coat them nicely? :D
I wanted to ask on how to transfer to a blade, but i just realized, new blade comes with setting powder already...

Just align the contact edge of the cleaning blade with the backside of the old blade. In one smooth motion swipe it across the new blade. It will give you a small (1mm or less) ridge of toner right on the contact edge of the blade. Then mount the blade in the cleaning unit. When you insert the new drum rotate it carefully through the first couple rotations to make sure it doesn't grab. =^..^=

818tech
09-19-2016, 02:07 AM
No, it's because it's a 600. You'll get to shovel out the S/T unit every visit. It's a toner-dumping machine. =^..^=

I recently did a Full PM on the machine bh-600. Copy Count: 1.2 Million Copies.
Brand New: Developer Unit, Developer Powder, Drum Cylinder, Cleaning Blade, Toner Recycling Roller Unit, Main Charger Unit, Transfer/Separation Unit, Fuser Web. (Except TCSB).
After 13,000 copies, copies are getting dirty on the lower (bottom) edge of the paper (portrait orientation only). Like toner spots/or droppings, sometimes when there's a lot, you can actually wipe it off like a smudge.
And the droppings are very little but makes the copies dirty .

I do have another identical machine that drops more toner/developer on the top of the T/S Unit Front & Rear, but it doesn't make the copies dirty.

Can i ask which of the Charging (High Voltage) adjustment i should play around?
or is there another way or adjustment to control the dropping of the toner/developer?

oh temporary solution:
I did overhauled the Process Unit, Vacuumed out the toner below the blade and wiped the lower end of the developer unit (the side that meets the drum), and did the Drum Pecu... (Auto only).

I haven't done any manual adjustment on these machine myself.

still dropping, but no dirty copies for the moment.

Thanks in advance!

818tech
09-19-2016, 02:32 AM
Just align the contact edge of the cleaning blade with the backside of the old blade. In one smooth motion swipe it across the new blade. It will give you a small (1mm or less) ridge of toner right on the contact edge of the blade. Then mount the blade in the cleaning unit. When you insert the new drum rotate it carefully through the first couple rotations to make sure it doesn't grab. =^..^=

Perfect! I'll do this procedure if I'll be reusing a used blade to transfer the toner from one blade to another.
And I'll just rotate the new or used drum with the blade installed but on off position. (quite scary noh? i'm scared to do this.)

At least the new Blade And Toner Guide Roller (TRRU) comes with a setting powder. but the new Drum does not.

When i overhaul a Process Unit, i usually clean by wiping off the installed blade before reinstalling them, to get rid of you know, any particles that possibly will create lines on copies and gives us copy quality issues.
So when we do the blade to blade toner transfer, you don't think the unwanted particles will be transfer too?

And When changing the Main Charge Unit do you do the Process adjustment (Charging grid manual adjustment) (high voltage adjustment), Checking the charging grid voltage adjustment value as given in the drum flange section.Like Connecting a tester and Enter adjustment value manually?

Also on cleaning the TCSB sensor, what kind of Drum Cleaner we can use to clean the sensors with? does Konica Minolta sells one? or what alternative you guys use?

Lastly for the Power Supply pin/Roller shaft power supply section for the Toner Guide Roller - you recommend any electricity lubricant?

Sorry for all these questions...

thank you so in advance.

blackcat4866
09-19-2016, 03:28 AM
Sorry. It's getting late here so the answers will be brief:


Perfect! I'll do this procedure if I'll be reusing a used blade to transfer the toner from one blade to another.
And I'll just rotate the new or used drum with the blade installed but on off position. (quite scary noh? i'm scared to do this.)...

I don't have a clue what you might mean by this.


When i overhaul a Process Unit, i usually clean by wiping off the installed blade before reinstalling them, to get rid of you know, any particles that possibly will create lines on copies and gives us copy quality issues.
So when we do the blade to blade toner transfer, you don't think the unwanted particles will be transfer too?...

No. I don't give it a thought. And you wipe off that nice drum prime powder that the manufacturer puts on the drum and blade for you? Why? If a blade is cleaning it's a really good idea to leave it alone, untouched, unless you're going to replace it. Wiping away those "unwanted" particles may well open up a gap in the wiper contact surface, creating a cleaning problem where you had none. The only time I wipe a cleaning blade is when 1) I don't have a replacement and 2) when it's not cleaning.


And When changing the Main Charge Unit do you do the Process adjustment (Charging grid manual adjustment) (high voltage adjustment), Checking the charging grid voltage adjustment value as given in the drum flange section.Like Connecting a tester and Enter adjustment value manually?...

Nope.


Also on cleaning the TCSB sensor, what kind of Drum Cleaner we can use to clean the sensors with? does Konica Minolta sells one? or what alternative you guys use?...

I hope you're not talking about the drum potential sensor. Just a few puffs of air from my puffer brush, and not refrigerant.


Lastly for the Power Supply pin/Roller shaft power supply section for the Toner Guide Roller - you recommend any electricity lubricant?

Do you mean the drum cleaner brush? No lubricant there. It will just mix with toner and make mud.

allan
09-19-2016, 04:51 AM
Hey BC they are not that bad.:p
These machines need to run.
If they do 100K plus a month they seem ok.

knightfall
09-19-2016, 11:09 AM
I have for the last 30 years used baby powder on Ricoh, sharp, Minolta, Konica and the combined, Xerox. I have never had any issues using baby powder and every one loves the smell plus its cheap enough just go to the travel isle and pick up baby powder for a dollar.

818tech
09-19-2016, 11:44 AM
http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 818tech http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/110201-bizhub-600-drum-dusting-powder-post532716.html#post532716)
Perfect! I'll do this procedure if I'll be reusing a used blade to transfer the toner from one blade to another.
And I'll just rotate the new or used drum with the blade installed but on off position. (quite scary noh? i'm scared to do this.)...




I don't have a clue what you might mean by this.

I'll do your toner blade to blade transfer trick if I'll be re-using an old good/used blade.
And If I'm out of drum setting powder, I'll just put the used drum back, install the used blade, with the blade on release position and rotate the drum manually to coat it with toner.


http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 818tech http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/110201-bizhub-600-drum-dusting-powder-post532716.html#post532716)
When i overhaul a Process Unit, i usually clean by wiping off the installed blade before reinstalling them, to get rid of you know, any particles that possibly will create lines on copies and gives us copy quality issues.
So when we do the blade to blade toner transfer, you don't think the unwanted particles will be transfer too?...




No. I don't give it a thought. And you wipe off that nice drum prime powder that the manufacturer puts on the drum and blade for you? Why?

When i overhaul a Process Unit prematurely, i don't necessarily replace it with new parts. Example when there is a CQ issue, reason: too much toner/Developer dumping.
So if i will re-use the blade i usually wipe of the toner on it to make sure to also remove the unwanted particles and usually put a setting powder before installing the use blade back.
I don't recall getting a new DR-710 drum with pre-coated setting powder.

http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 818tech http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/110201-bizhub-600-drum-dusting-powder-post532716.html#post532716)
Also on cleaning the TCSB sensor, what kind of Drum Cleaner we can use to clean the sensors with? does Konica Minolta sells one? or what alternative you guys use?...




I hope you're not talking about the drum potential sensor. Just a few puffs of air from my puffer brush, and not refrigerant.

The Toner Control Sensor Board underneath the Blade, there are two sensors there, book says to clean it with a cleaning pad with a Drum Cleaner, i usually just clean it with a blower brush.... but maybe Drum Cleaner is better?


http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by 818tech http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/110201-bizhub-600-drum-dusting-powder-post532716.html#post532716)
Lastly for the Power Supply pin/Roller shaft power supply section for the Toner Guide Roller - you recommend any electricity lubricant?




Do you mean the drum cleaner brush? No lubricant there. It will just mix with toner and make mud.

The Toner Guide Roller besides the drum below the blade on the toner recycling area.
Book says to put electricity lubricant on the end shaft of the TGR. maybe for better electrical contact, Do you use any at all?

Thank you BC!

818tech
09-19-2016, 11:49 AM
Re: bizhub 600 Drum Dusting Powder



http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by blackcat4866 http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/110201-bizhub-600-drum-dusting-powder-post532712.html#post532712)
No, it's because it's a 600. You'll get to shovel out the S/T unit every visit. It's a toner-dumping machine. =^..^=




I recently did a Full PM on the machine bh-600. Copy Count: 1.2 Million Copies.
Brand New: Developer Unit, Developer Powder, Drum Cylinder, Cleaning Blade, Toner Recycling Roller Unit, Main Charger Unit, Transfer/Separation Unit, Fuser Web. (Except TCSB).
After 13,000 copies, copies are getting dirty on the lower (bottom) edge of the paper (portrait orientation only). Like toner spots/or droppings, sometimes when there's a lot, you can actually wipe it off like a smudge.
And the droppings are very little but makes the copies dirty .

I do have another identical machine that drops more toner/developer on the top of the T/S Unit Front & Rear, but it doesn't make the copies dirty.

Can i ask which of the Charging (High Voltage) adjustment i should play around?
or is there another way or adjustment to control the dropping of the toner/developer?

oh temporary solution:
I did overhauled the Process Unit, Vacuumed out the toner below the blade and wiped the lower end of the developer unit (the side that meets the drum), and did the Drum Pecu... (Auto only).

I haven't done any manual adjustment on these machine myself.

still dropping, but no dirty copies for the moment.

Thanks in advance!

blackcat - any luck with this ? thanks!

allan
09-19-2016, 03:13 PM
Tip > never clean the blade if you have to remove the drum and reinstall it.

allan
09-19-2016, 03:26 PM
You have to compare the current voltage settings with the factory adjustment value under state confirmation.
Sometimes i find that these values have been tweaked a bit and that will lead to quality problems.

Never ever change the main charge manual adjustment.
If that is not between 108 and 112 it could have been adjusted already.
I always do the grid manual adjustment with the tester as per the voltage on the drum flange.

If you are using non original toner you can expect that machine to dump toner.

If you are getting less that 30K prints a month on a machine i would suggest changing the developer every 100K prints.

Make sure the contact on the toner recycle roller on the side is making good contact.
Also check the quench lamp under the T/S unit if that lens is dirty underneath put it off clean it and stick it back on there.

There is some dip switch setting to consider depending on the use of the machine.
Its a tricky one this box.

Albonline
09-19-2016, 03:49 PM
You have to compare the current voltage settings with the factory adjustment value under state confirmation.
Sometimes i find that these values have been tweaked a bit and that will lead to quality problems.

Never ever change the main charge manual adjustment.
If that is not between 108 and 112 it could have been adjusted already.
I always do the grid manual adjustment with the tester as per the voltage on the drum flange.

If you are using non original toner you can expect that machine to dump toner.

If you are getting less that 30K prints a month on a machine i would suggest changing the developer every 100K prints.

Make sure the contact on the toner recycle roller on the side is making good contact.
Also check the quench lamp under the T/S unit if that lens is dirty underneath put it off clean it and stick it back on there.

There is some dip switch setting to consider depending on the use of the machine.


Its a tricky one this box.



Add to this drum and developer grounds, developer mag angle and h-cut blade settings, and you can get them to run relativly clean ,provided customer isnt useing crap paper loaded with dust.

allan
09-19-2016, 04:02 PM
Add to this drum and developer grounds, developer mag angle and h-cut blade settings, and you can get them to run relativly clean ,provided customer isnt useing crap paper loaded with dust.

Jip, good advice.
I always test the dev bias. It should be blow 80ohms as per KM.
Sometimes i will use a piece of stainless wire from the bias connection to the shaft bypassing the bearing.

Then there is the magnet angle adjustment. The white plastic piece with the angle gauge.
Never touch it!!

copyman
09-19-2016, 10:20 PM
Like I have posted here many times before, this was a POOR design of this machine to recycle the waste toner back into developer !!! The machine would of been so much better with a waste btl. The main problem is paper dust contaminating the developer, depending on the quality paper customer is using. I think there are soft switch settings to change the cleaning rollers to stay on and cut down on toner density.

The jamming issues with this series is for another topic.....

allan
09-20-2016, 12:38 AM
There is an easy way to get the cleaning roller to run continuously.
Just unplug the clutch.
It prevents the cleaning section from filling up with toner.

818tech
09-20-2016, 07:33 AM
There is an easy way to get the cleaning roller to run continuously.
Just unplug the clutch.
It prevents the cleaning section from filling up with toner.

Yes, they are unplug.

818tech
09-20-2016, 08:26 AM
You have to compare the current voltage settings with the factory adjustment value under state confirmation.
Sometimes i find that these values have been tweaked a bit and that will lead to quality problems.

I took over these machine from a retired tech 4 years ago, I Did 250PM 4 times and 500PM 2 times all original.
I have done only the Auto Drum Pecu everytime i touch the Process Unit.
I'm not sure how to access the original/factory adjustment settings.
If possible, maybe you can shed some light on how to do this?


Never ever change the main charge manual adjustment.
If that is not between 108 and 112 it could have been adjusted already.

And if it has been changed?


I always do the grid manual adjustment with the tester as per the voltage on the drum flange.

I've been wanting to do this because it's on the manual but i have never did.
I want to do it during the next 500K PM, When Replacing New Drum and Main Charger.

I only have the cheap Cen-Tech Digital Multimeter from Harbor Freight.
And it says on the back "Do not test voltages over 750 VAC or 1000 VDC" to prevent serious electric shock.

Can you recommend a good Make and Model of Tester? maybe similar to what your using...
And in what positions you set it on when you check the voltage on the drum flange?


If you are using non original toner you can expect that machine to dump toner.

Previous tech did use Katun, but i've been using only TN-710 for 4 years now...


If you are getting less that 30K prints a month on a machine i would suggest changing the developer every 100K prints.

Do you mean 30K prints then dirty copies (copy quality)? or Machine is just making 30K prints a month?
One machine is making 15K per month and other machine makes around 25-30K a month.

The machine that does 15K copies craps less but make more dirty copies than the machine that does 25-30K that craps more but no dirty copies.
(Talking about the dropping on top of the Transfer/Separation Unit.


Make sure the contact on the toner recycle roller on the side is making good contact.

Which electricity lubricant you recommend that i can use for good contact?


Also check the quench lamp under the T/S unit if that lens is dirty underneath put it off clean it and stick it back on there.

I usually just blow canned air on it, while the machine is powered-off.
Any recommendation how to clean that lens?

Also what do you use to clean the Laser Unit glass and the Sensors on the TCSB?

Thanks again my friend...


There is some dip switch setting to consider depending on the use of the machine.
Its a tricky one this box.

As far as CQ is concerned? :D

allan
09-20-2016, 04:55 PM
look under service mode > State Confirmation >Adj Data Table.
It will show current setting and shipment value.
If the main charge value is not the same as the shipment value set it back.

You tester should be good enough if it can handle 1000V DC.
It should be set to voltage DC and auto range.
Fluke testers are the best but very expensive. Talk to your local electrical supplier about a good tester.

For cleaning the contacts electrical contact cleaner applied with a cloth should be fine.

I would remove the T/S unit from the machine before blowing it out.
For cleaning the plastic lens use a dry cloth.

For the Laser glass a soft cloth damp with alcohol will be ok.

For the image sensors a soft dry cloth or if its suborn dirt a little saliva work well.

The soft switch setting will change the why the machine does process control and can help for low volume use.

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