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habik
10-19-2017, 11:14 PM
Probably common on high mileage machines, but it was my first one to go so thought it may help someone. Possible cure for J3003.

CL 8 - A161M20100 in fuser drive went to pieces. Glad it didn't took out the PRCB as it wasn't far from judging from the coil wire being exposed.

Tip: If you happen to work on Kyo kit, then Kyocera clutch (303M894090 - CLUTCH 50 Z35R SP) can get you out of jail if you don't have Konica on board. Just swap the drive gear, hub and frame holder.

37934379353793637937

blackcat4866
10-20-2017, 12:04 AM
I'll confirm all of that. Watch for a pile of rust on the mechanical lever on the right door that engages the fuser drive. Life ~3/4M to 1M.
And pix:

37941379383793937940

=^..^=

allan
10-20-2017, 04:18 AM
Wow that thing is toast. I have developed a habit of spraying out clutches with contact cleaner, the amount of rust that comes out...

habik
10-20-2017, 07:34 AM
Wow that thing is toast. I have developed a habit of spraying out clutches with contact cleaner, the amount of rust that comes out...That's not a bad habit. I do as well when time is prescious. But this one has slightly few bits inside which completely failed so cleaner would just give another nail in to cofin.

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suomi
10-20-2017, 12:30 PM
Meter count is?

habik
10-20-2017, 12:34 PM
Meter count is?1 mil

Blackcat mentioned it already in previous post.

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srvctec
10-20-2017, 08:30 PM
Wow that thing is toast. I have developed a habit of spraying out clutches with contact cleaner, the amount of rust that comes out...

I used to do that until one time, the contact cleaner ("plastic safe") melted the insides of one. The bad thing is there is no way to know until it happens.



Just looked in the service manual and it looks like a pain to get to. Any tips or shortcuts, getting to the clutch? I'm sure if I have to do the replacement, I'll figure out any shortcuts along the way but it would be cool to have a heads up. Thanks for the info, @habik !

EarthKmTech
10-20-2017, 11:34 PM
And ensure the fusing exit grey roller at the top of the rhs door turns freely, lubricate its bushings as required. These bind up, badly and should be checked on every call.

blackcat4866
10-21-2017, 02:14 AM
... Just looked in the service manual and it looks like a pain to get to. Any tips or shortcuts, getting to the clutch? I'm sure if I have to do the replacement, I'll figure out any shortcuts along the way but it would be cool to have a heads up...

How about this?:

srvctec
10-21-2017, 02:46 AM
How about this?:
Excellent and thanks!

blackcat4866
10-21-2017, 03:10 AM
I wouldn't exactly call it a shortcut. It'll take you 60 to 90 minutes, and you'll have to remove a lot of stuff. I would have the clutch in-hand before starting any disassembly. The rust is a sure indicator. =^..^=

habik
10-22-2017, 10:55 PM
I used to do that until one time, the contact cleaner ("plastic safe") melted the insides of one. The bad thing is there is no way to know until it happens.



Just looked in the service manual and it looks like a pain to get to. Any tips or shortcuts, getting to the clutch? I'm sure if I have to do the replacement, I'll figure out any shortcuts along the way but it would be cool to have a heads up. Thanks for the info, @habik !
If it is just the clutch then:

Short ver. :)

Rear covers 3 black and 1 white
Side cover white (comm ports)
Black plastic harness holding Panel and Scanner cable that slides up after removing 1 self tapper under comm ports cover
Fuser
Near fuser drive Door Side - 2x Black Eject drive cog Direct drive from clutch 1 clip then there is another which needs just unclipping and half slide to allow the direct drive to come off. Slide the shaft out and clutch is free to lift up from the fuser drive.
Now disocnnect the clutch connector (I have feeling they are either bonded connectors as they real hard to pull off, think they somehow break off.) Cable remains in place if you fitting Kyo clutch "mod".

If you replacing it with new Konica clutch and clutch cable together then its beeter for the drive to come off as it is a bit fiddly to get the cable out without damage, plus you can check if there is any damage to other gears.

Hope that helps.

habik
10-22-2017, 11:40 PM
This kinda sound it makes :D


https://youtu.be/AoN3cnN8d9Y

insigniawales
10-28-2017, 04:59 PM
Ive got a machine which is on 60k, ive had to replace the fuser due to a knocking noise....its a 554 (olivetti) customer phoned yesterday complaining of clicking noise. I sent my engineer out and then there was no noise im wondering if this is anything related. Machine was installed in July 2017. His machine does not have a finnisher....it doesnt stack the paper very well.....https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/2611adee3ae4f352c1079b0076f0697d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20171028/7f2615734dfb845ba8346d4e621509db.jpg

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habik
10-29-2017, 11:52 AM
Humidity
Paper Storage
Paper Quality
Firmware
Fuser Temp Warm up Modes

Take a pick..or any variable combination.

Without finisher it will never be stacked nicely due to the speed of the machine. Hence where alingment plates and paddles in finisher comes to play.
However you can still try and change warm up mode to 3 or 4. If the customer is happy to wait a minute for machine to warm up on each print then this might be your solution.

Hope this helps on your MF552plus. Good luck.

rrrohan
10-30-2017, 03:30 AM
Even the 658 series exit assy is a worry
In the 8 series the clicking is from the exit rollers shaft wearing through the plastic as there is no bushing and gettibg lots of play. This then causes gears to not mesh all the time

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