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AngélC552KM
10-18-2018, 01:28 PM
Hello,


I’ve just bought a second hand bizhub c552 with FS 526 finisher.
First, it made disapointing copies – less or more dirty aspect on all - as you can see on pictures 1 and 2 : one thin blanck line on the black and white copy and many grey stripes through the entire color copy.






The seller told me it was an cyan’s Image Unit problem : « The Cyan doesn’t fix »
So I’ve decided to clean it, first by manipulating in and out the cleaning lever, then by using an anti-static and lint-free rag on the accessible section of the photo conductor/C. Finaly, I shaked this drum unit, twice head down and twice head up , before reinstalling it.
Here are the results of this first cleaning on pictures 3 and 4)





As the thickness of the black trails you see seemed to decrease as the copies went on, I continued to gently manipulate the cleaning lever. Here is the result of this second cleaning (picture 5)







You see a line of black drops that crosses the page at the same place that the black trails were located.
Then, a last cleaning with the same rag all around the photo conductor/C by making it turn thanks to the gearwheel gave the result on page 6.






Update : Here the last 4 copies I’ve tried, maybe they’re more significant ; they are all made with mono color mode ( 1st : only K / 2nd : only C / 3rd : only M / 4th : only Y ).
Even if the Cyan doesn’t fix completely ( left side of the copy is a bit wipped ), the Black ink - still on that left side – doesn’t fix at all.
Magenta and Yellow are ok.


Also, on the verso, a black stripe crosses the back.


Can someone here help me ? Have you ideas about where the problem(s) may come from ? or what advices can you give me on how to procede.


Sorry for my english.


Thanks a lot,


Angélique

3ktlc
10-19-2018, 03:10 PM
Black drum maybe.

Zesti
10-19-2018, 08:08 PM
Hek of awork. Check K drum and do clean the PHs all of them especially K.
BH552 is a work horse. Good choice. Ur machine do need some expert hand.

AngélC552KM
10-21-2018, 05:54 PM
Hek of awork. Check K drum and do clean the PHs all of them especially K.
BH552 is a work horse. Good choice. Ur machine do need some expert hand.

Hello and thank you very much for your answers 3ktlc and Zesti.
Zesti :
- what do you mean by checking the drum K? is it an attempt to remove and clean the photoconductor, or even replace it ? (picture 1)
- What do you mean by "cleaning PHs"? Is this the element I attach in the photo? and especially the mirrors? How are they cleaned? (picture 2)
Sorry to bother you again, but you're the only expert hand I know.... delighted.
Angélique

Translated with DeepL Translator (http://www.DeepL.com/Translator)

Synthohol
10-21-2018, 07:14 PM
IMPO, get 4 IUs and a transfer belt and roller.
then calibrate.
its a bit of an investment but worth it when you get 100k or more with no image issues.
dont put a bandaid on a broken arm, replace the consumables and enjoy.

Synaux
10-23-2018, 02:33 AM
There should be a "wand" to clean the print head (PH) there is a slot that you insert it in to clean each glass (one for each color toner).

Then, I would suspect only the black IU (and maybe cyan for picture 4 I think it was). I would take out the black IU and inspect for developer spew (will look like black toner but will be ferrous (use a magnet to find out). In addition to this, you can get a flashlight and sort of look at the print head slit underneath to see if there is any debris on the window.

Give us the life on the IUs and transfer belt and meter counts ;)

Synthohol is absolutely correct, but getting all that probably will cost just as much as you spent to acquire the machine--but that how it goes with used machinery (especially copiers).

AngélC552KM
10-24-2018, 05:32 PM
There should be a "wand" to clean the print head (PH) there is a slot that you insert it in to clean each glass (one for each color toner).

Then, I would suspect only the black IU (and maybe cyan for picture 4 I think it was). I would take out the black IU and inspect for developer spew (will look like black toner but will be ferrous (use a magnet to find out). In addition to this, you can get a flashlight and sort of look at the print head slit underneath to see if there is any debris on the window.

Give us the life on the IUs and transfer belt and meter counts ;)

Synthohol is absolutely correct, but getting all that probably will cost just as much as you spent to acquire the machine--but that how it goes with used machinery (especially copiers).

Hello,

It's really very kind of you to take care of me.
I haven't opened anything yet but I'll get to it soon, taking your advice and hypotheses into account.

Synaux,
You're talking about cleaning the print head with a wand. I would like to be sure that we are talking about the same element: according to the documentation, the write section (PH) is the element that I attach in photo 2 on my precedent post. If that's the case, do you mean that I have to open this element to clean each laser drive board ? or more simply, without opening, clean the windows on the element ? And what tools and products should be used to clean?

I think I made a good deal and the photocopies were much better before I started the cleanings I described above.
I understand Synthohol but I can't afford to buy new all these items, does anyone know of a site where I could buy cheaper equipment?

In any case, thank you, I do not give up dismantling and look at the places you have pointed out to me.
I attach the status of the consumables.

See you soon,
Angelica
409574095840959

darry1322
10-24-2018, 05:51 PM
Synaux,
You're talking about cleaning the print head with a wand. I would like to be sure that we are talking about the same element: according to the documentation, the write section (PH) is the element that I attach in photo 2 on my precedent post. If that's the case, do you mean that I have to open this element to clean each laser drive board ? or more simply, without opening, clean the windows on the element ? And what tools and products should be used to clean?




Similar to what you see in this video. Although this usually only repairs light streaks in the print not dark streaks.

For the c552 the wand will be in the top paper tray underneath a cover.

YouTube (https://youtu.be/Fsuf6Xk7stY?t=90)

AngélC552KM
10-26-2018, 07:35 PM
There should be a "wand" to clean the print head (PH) there is a slot that you insert it in to clean each glass (one for each color toner).

Then, I would suspect only the black IU (and maybe cyan for picture 4 I think it was). I would take out the black IU and inspect for developer spew (will look like black toner but will be ferrous (use a magnet to find out). In addition to this, you can get a flashlight and sort of look at the print head slit underneath to see if there is any debris on the window.

Give us the life on the IUs and transfer belt and meter counts ;)

Synthohol is absolutely correct, but getting all that probably will cost just as much as you spent to acquire the machine--but that how it goes with used machinery (especially copiers).


That's exactly what I saw when I pulled out the black UI!
Ferrous developer spew everywhere !

I removed what I could, but some areas in the machine are inaccessible without a very thorough disassembly. In addition, the toner is well attached to the metal. The wand I had to redo cannot remove the debris on the print head window.
The cyan IU may be affected, but the black IU is definitely affected!

After a brief cleaning, the problems returned.
What to do about it?
Is it possible to tweak to restore the black IU?

A big thank you already,
Angelique

Zesti
10-27-2018, 12:58 PM
Angel,
How much tech experience you have on KM's?
It's a good practice on these machines to take out the PH unit completely and clean it thoroughly.
If there is developer spewing, you need to put new developer unit and K drum. The C unit pron to problem due to K unit toner scattering.

AngélC552KM
10-27-2018, 02:14 PM
Angel,
How much tech experience you have on KM's?
It's a good practice on these machines to take out the PH unit completely and clean it thoroughly.
If there is developer spewing, you need to put new developer unit and K drum. The C unit pron to problem due to K unit toner scattering.

I started with you when I sent my first message a few weeks ago. But thanks to you, I'm taking big steps and I can see myself going to look for PHunit where it is!
But first, if I understood correctly, I have to change the whole UI-K and it's going to cost me an arm! I saw that we could find spare parts or remanufactured, what do you think about this? Have you already tried?

Zesti, I'd like to understand your last sentence:
"The C unit pron to problem due to K unit toner scattering."
Does il mean the Cyan unit actually has no problem ? everything would come from the K unit?

Thank you very much,
Angelique

AngélC552KM
10-31-2018, 09:02 AM
Good morning, everyone,

It escaped me, but the report on the lifetime of consumables presents some puzzles that you may be able to solve.

If you are kind enough to take a look at the attached files, could you tell me why the device does not tell me (00/00/0000) the estimated end of life of the black drum and ozone filter?

Maybe I need to change the black drum but how can I be sure it's not a developer or chip problem?

Thank you and I hope to see you later,
Angelique

410044100541006

rrrohan
10-31-2018, 10:18 AM
well k drum, toner filter and ozone filter all get done at same time. so id just say going off the toner filter your k drum will be at life mid 2022

AngélC552KM
10-31-2018, 02:44 PM
I find it strange that the machine does not detect the service life of the black drum or ozone filter. I wonder if this is not a microchip problem.

But given the head of the black drum, I'm afraid I'll have to replace it.
I took a few pictures if any of you ever have an idea.

Angelique41013410144101541016

allan
10-31-2018, 04:32 PM
Looks like drum dev and blade job. Check the corona for problems.

AngélC552KM
10-31-2018, 06:02 PM
[QUOTE=allan;709667]Looks like drum dev and blade job. Check the corona for problems.[/QUOTE

I can locate the corona, but can you tell me how to check it?

allan
10-31-2018, 06:45 PM
If you are experienced on detailed service you should know where to look and what to look for. Order the original drum and dev unit and you will have joy.

Is it clean and undamaged?

AngélC552KM
10-31-2018, 08:36 PM
If you are experienced on detailed service you should know where to look and what to look for. Order the original drum and dev unit and you will have joy.

Is it clean and undamaged?

I'm just starting out completely, but don't despair.
I don't have time today, but I'll try to find that corona tomorrow.
If it is dirty and damaged, would it be enough to change it?
Thank you very much,
Angel

AngélC552KM
11-01-2018, 04:59 AM
IMPO, get 4 IUs and a transfer belt and roller.
then calibrate.
its a bit of an investment but worth it when you get 100k or more with no image issues.
dont put a bandaid on a broken arm, replace the consumables and enjoy.

Thank you Synthohol, but I won't be able to acquire all these elements. Might as well resell the finishing unit and the large capacity bin to recover my costs....
You may be right, but I registered on this forum not only to save on expensive repairs but also to learn as much as possible by myself with your help.

I may have made a mistake but please consider that I will contribute to this site if I succeed.

allan
11-01-2018, 11:03 AM
The corona is not available for replacement if its damaged then the drum unit needs to be replaced.
Also if you do get the drum, blade and developer you will need the reset chips to clear the counters and to initialize the developer.

AngélC552KM
11-01-2018, 12:52 PM
The corona is not available for replacement if its damaged then the drum unit needs to be replaced.
Also if you do get the drum, blade and developer you will need the reset chips to clear the counters and to initialize the developer.


The attached pictures do not bode well, I think I will have to resign myself.4102241023

kingarthur
11-01-2018, 12:55 PM
Good morning, everyone,

It escaped me, but the report on the lifetime of consumables presents some puzzles that you may be able to solve.

If you are kind enough to take a look at the attached files, could you tell me why the device does not tell me (00/00/0000) the estimated end of life of the black drum and ozone filter?

Maybe I need to change the black drum but how can I be sure it's not a developer or chip problem?

Thank you and I hope to see you later,
Angelique

410044100541006 The reason why the K drum doesn't indicate a "yield prediction date" is possibly because it hasn't done enough prints to work it out yet...once you've carried out a few more, you'll probably see it change

AngélC552KM
11-01-2018, 03:17 PM
The reason why the K drum doesn't indicate a "yield prediction date" is possibly because it hasn't done enough prints to work it out yet...once you've carried out a few more, you'll probably see it change

Is it possible that on one side the black drum has not turned enough so that the machine does not yet detect its "end of life" and on the other side it is already dead ?

Zesti
11-02-2018, 07:57 AM
U r AN ANGEL Buddy....:)
Get a Katun C451 Black drum rebuild kit, will work for C552 also and replace everything in kit.
For the developer you can try DV114. It works.
Refer to SM for PH removal and clean it with soft cloth, clean laser windows (4) with alcohol. Install new K drum kit and developer. Check if u can find replacement drums for all 3 colors along with IU reset chips.
Hopefully u can make the machine to work.
Lastly my advise , again, get a tech do it for you.

AngélC552KM
11-02-2018, 08:48 AM
U r AN ANGEL Buddy....:)
Get a Katun C451 Black drum rebuild kit, will work for C552 also and replace everything in kit.
For the developer you can try DV114. It works.
Refer to SM for PH removal and clean it with soft cloth, clean laser windows (4) with alcohol. Install new K drum kit and developer. Check if u can find replacement drums for all 3 colors along with IU reset chips.
Hopefully u can make the machine to work.
Lastly my advise , again, get a tech do it for you.

Zesti,

You will have guessed that there is a good chance that no technician will ever touch MY machine. Either it survives my maneuvers, or I'll sell it for cutting.
You will be the only ones to touch it...with your eyes, and you are a huge help to me.

I repeat myself, but thank you very much.
I'll look for the references you're talking about and see if I can afford this.
I will clean the PH unit once I have everything in my possession.

To your health!
Angelique

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