C558 noise

[copier addict]

Hey all

I have a customer with a C558 that is producing a noise. I have been there twice without hearing it, but she recorded after I left this morning and sent it to me.
I am unable to attach it to this post, possibly because it is too large. The noise seems to be coming from the exit area, but in the recording it i difficult ti tell. The noise is a medium pitched steady whine. The volume fluctuates slightly. She tells me it happens in the AM more often. I removed the fuser and turned it by hand and no noise there.
I realise there isn't much to go on here, but does this sound familiar to anyone?
Any input is appreciated
Thanks

[blackcat4866]

You're right. That's not much to go on.

If you trim down the recording to less than 1M then zip the file you should be able to attach it. Based on the intermittency ... what are the current toner levels? =^..^=

[Woxner]

alot of times its the fuser cl roller bushing.

[kenpio]

I have seen the transfer roller making a sqeeking noise. The front side gets dry. Throw a little oil in there and it is gone.

[copier tech]

Exit rollers prone to squeaking, I usually just spray WD40 in that area then do a run to clear up excess. Bulletin will tell you to strip & clean or replace exit bushings etc but this is overkill.

[allan]

79J897600Old - Crap design
79J897612 - Hopefully fixed

Its this holder part...

The shaft chews thru the plastic holder until the belt starts to jump.
Does not jam but does make a noise.

I take the old part and drill and fix a brass bushing in there.

[CopierNerd]

alot of times its the fuser cl roller bushing.

Yes, Sir Wayne is right! Its the fusing cleaning roller bushing. experienced this yesterday but mine was 658e.

[CopierNerd]

I have seen the transfer roller making a sqeeking noise. The front side gets dry. Throw a little oil in there and it is gone.

I agree. if its squeaking noise then probably the cause is transfer roller. One can also check by removing the transfer roller and also by manually rotating the tr roller. Lubricating the seating works! yes! damn right!

[copier addict]

I hope this works.

up close noise_output tray.mp4 - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-9MJIt1WDufksROWg3ZX6i8QhG-HpTRl/view?usp=drivesdk)

[allan]

I hope this works.

up close noise_output tray.mp4 - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-9MJIt1WDufksROWg3ZX6i8QhG-HpTRl/view?usp=drivesdk)

Not the problem i am describing. Tend to agree that it could be on the fuser.
I have completely removed the cleaning rollers before just to get time to replace the fusers.
There is 3de party rebuild kits that include those roller bushings.

[Bix]

Make sure the transfer belt does not have problems. The other day I found out that there was some toner stuck inside the cleaning roller because they did not have to empty the waste toner box

[blackcat4866]

Exit rollers prone to squeaking, I usually just spray WD40 in that area then do a run to clear up excess. Bulletin will tell you to strip & clean or replace exit bushings etc but this is overkill.

Say it isn't so. Please don't spray WD40 on anything ... except maybe a feed roller or metal fuser inlet guide. WD40 is not a lubricant and attacks most plastics.

[Synaux]

Say it isn't so. Please don't spray WD40 on anything ... except maybe a feed roller or metal fuser inlet guide. WD40 is not a lubricant and attacks most plastics.
Yeap! Funny how WD40 claims it is a lubricant--blatant false advertising.

Rant:
WD stands for water displacement. I think WD40 is mostly paint thinner (and other petroleum blah blah blahs).
The real problem is that WD40 simply dissipates--WD40 again claims it continues to work after application which in my experience is pure snake-oil-nonsense. It is also a terrible rust prevention solvent--it is amazing how WD40's marketing team makes so many blatantly making false claims and yet so successful in their inculpability. I would be willing to bet that their sales would be cut in half (if not more) if people simply used WD40 properly (by the way that is a net income of a mere nearly 60 million USD for 2017).
WD40 even claims it is safe of plastics and rubber which is sort-of-true.
Wiping such materials down with WD40 is safe because it evaporates relatively quick; on the converse, long-term exposure will result in issues. So in my opinion, WD40 is only good for cleaning on MFPs and its residue should be cleaned off of plastics and rubbers (as a mere precaution). I guess if you have some rusted screws it would be useful otherwise, but if that is the case, you are probably having bigger issues.

[copier tech]

Yeap! Funny how WD40 claims it is a lubricant--blatant false advertising.

Rant:
WD stands for water displacement. I think WD40 is mostly paint thinner (and other petroleum blah blah blahs).
The real problem is that WD40 simply dissipates--WD40 again claims it continues to work after application which in my experience is pure snake-oil-nonsense. It is also a terrible rust prevention solvent--it is amazing how WD40's marketing team makes so many blatantly making false claims and yet so successful in their inculpability. I would be willing to bet that their sales would be cut in half (if not more) if people simply used WD40 properly (by the way that is a net income of a mere nearly 60 million USD for 2017).
WD40 even claims it is safe of plastics and rubber which is sort-of-true.
Wiping such materials down with WD40 is safe because it evaporates relatively quick; on the converse, long-term exposure will result in issues. So in my opinion, WD40 is only good for cleaning on MFPs and its residue should be cleaned off of plastics and rubbers (as a mere precaution). I guess if you have some rusted screws it would be useful otherwise, but if that is the case, you are probably having bigger issues.

I’ve been using it for over 25+ years i’ve been in this industry on Canon, Ricoh, Kyocera, HP, Samsung & Ricoh never once had an issue with it damaging anything. I regually use it on squeaking exit roller bushings. Its also very good on the reg & vertical path black rollers.

The only issues i’ve had is being clumsy & getting some on the transfer belt or drums but even then it cleans off with no problem however it must NEVER be used in or near the fuser.

I agree great WD40 marketing it is also rather expensive but hey it does the job for me!

[Synaux]

I’ve been using it for over 25+ years i’ve been in this industry on Canon, Ricoh, Kyocera, HP, Samsung & Ricoh never once had an issue with it damaging anything. I regually use it on squeaking exit roller bushings. Its also very good on the reg & vertical path black rollers.

The only issues i’ve had is being clumsy & getting some on the transfer belt or drums but even then it cleans off with no problem however it must NEVER be used in or near the fuser.

I agree great WD40 marketing it is also rather expensive but hey it does the job for me!

Well, the problem, as I see it regarding bushings, is that you are simply cleaning the bushing and shaft surfaces. If there is any lubricant present you are surely cleaning that out at the same time, therefore you should reintroduce more lubricant.

[Phil B.]

Say it isn't so. Please don't spray WD40 on anything ... except maybe a feed roller or metal fuser inlet guide. WD40 is not a lubricant and attacks most plastics.

TRIFLOW! thats the way to go.

WD40 will dry out brass bushings.

Thanks BC for pointing this out again! been saying this for years!

[Synaux]

TRIFLOW! thats the way to go.

WD40 will dry out brass bushings.

Thanks BC for pointing this out again! been saying this for years!
Never used triflow but will look into it. I realize we kinda hijacked this post, but I felt like ranting (even though i have talked about this before). I will be back in a year or so to remind everyone :rolleyes:

[Phil B.]

Yeap! Funny how WD40 claims it is a lubricant--blatant false advertising.

Rant:
WD stands for water displacement. I think WD40 is mostly paint thinner (and other petroleum blah blah blahs).
The real problem is that WD40 simply dissipates--WD40 again claims it continues to work after application which in my experience is pure snake-oil-nonsense. It is also a terrible rust prevention solvent--it is amazing how WD40's marketing team makes so many blatantly making false claims and yet so successful in their inculpability. I would be willing to bet that their sales would be cut in half (if not more) if people simply used WD40 properly (by the way that is a net income of a mere nearly 60 million USD for 2017).
WD40 even claims it is safe of plastics and rubber which is sort-of-true.
Wiping such materials down with WD40 is safe because it evaporates relatively quick; on the converse, long-term exposure will result in issues. So in my opinion, WD40 is only good for cleaning on MFPs and its residue should be cleaned off of plastics and rubbers (as a mere precaution). I guess if you have some rusted screws it would be useful otherwise, but if that is the case, you are probably having bigger issues.For rusted nuts/use pu blaster.
Yes if you need to remove water. WD40.
There are so many better lubes.
High speed low temp situations..blue waterproof bearing grease.
Plastic bush/bearings.. triflow..even good on fishing reels n non heat related areas of you firearms..personally tested
223-556/22/38/38spl/40/12ga
31+ yes in this an more in 'puters.. learned many tricks

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[Cantechman]

Hey all

I have a customer with a C558 that is producing a noise. I have been there twice without hearing it, but she recorded after I left this morning and sent it to me.
I am unable to attach it to this post, possibly because it is too large. The noise seems to be coming from the exit area, but in the recording it i difficult ti tell. The noise is a medium pitched steady whine. The volume fluctuates slightly. She tells me it happens in the AM more often. I removed the fuser and turned it by hand and no noise there.
I realise there isn't much to go on here, but does this sound familiar to anyone?
Any input is appreciated
Thanks


Does it have a finisher? Remove the middle transport section between the exit section and finisher, turn it over and grease the bushings for the transport rollers in that unit. I had a squeak before in that section on an brand new machine.

[DarwLeo28]

[CITA = adicto a la copiadora; 723575] Espero que esto funcione.

arriba cerrar noise_output tray.mp4 - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-9MJIt1WDufksROWg3ZX6i8QhG-HpTRl/view?usp=drivesdk) [/ QUOTE]


puede ser la cuchilla de la faja de transferencia

[Phil B.]

[CITA = adicto a la copiadora; 723575] Espero que esto funcione.
arriba cerrar noise_output tray.mp4 - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-9MJIt1WDufksROWg3ZX6i8QhG-HpTRl/view?usp=drivesdk) [/ QUOTE]
puede ser la cuchilla de la faja de transferencia

Shit here we go again!:mad::mad::mad:

[Cantechman]

Hey all

I have a customer with a C558 that is producing a noise. I have been there twice without hearing it, but she recorded after I left this morning and sent it to me.
I am unable to attach it to this post, possibly because it is too large. The noise seems to be coming from the exit area, but in the recording it i difficult ti tell. The noise is a medium pitched steady whine. The volume fluctuates slightly. She tells me it happens in the AM more often. I removed the fuser and turned it by hand and no noise there.
I realise there isn't much to go on here, but does this sound familiar to anyone?
Any input is appreciated
Thanks


Hi was it ever resolved? I have a c658 making the same type of sound in that area.

[blackcat4866]

The clicking noise is easily resolved by removing the cleaning brush and it's paraphernalia. There is a sector gear on the heat sink roller that cannot seem to reach the flat spot ... and clicks off that last gear tooth continuously.

The keening or screeching noise is usually the bearings inside the heat sink roller. They are 16mm OD, 7.5mm ID, (1680 or 688ADD) but they were troublesome to remove, and hardly worth putting back on. I also removed the heat sink roller and it's paraphernalia.

48414

=^..^=

[copier addict]

I always try to follow up if there was a solution, but I obviously missed this one. The solution was to replace the fuser. Sorry for the delay