Deep Black on Site, FS3920

[stern.detmold.32756]

Hi,

i have a problem with a Kyocera FS3920, as shown in the picture. I did clean the printer like described in the manual, and used the drum cleaning program. Is there a possible solution besides buying a maintenance kit?

Thanks.

[zoraldinho]

No. Only new drum.

[JR2ALTA]

I don't think the manual describes cleaning the charge roller. It clips onto the drum and causes most quality issues. Can be cleaned with damp rag until it's dark black. Make sure it's dry before refitting.

That being said it's hard to tell if your issue is developer or even fuser. Maintenance kit has you covered with all 3.

[yourownfree]

here is how to tell where your problem is:
open the lid to stop the print just past the drum and not into the fixing assy.
If it looks good its your fixing assy
if it still looks bad could be drum cleaning blade but doubt it.
most likely the drum charge roller or developer unit.
You can clean the charge roller with window cleaner until it looks new, and I know some will say do not but I disagree.
Then the dev unit can be emptied and cleaned good or replaced, go into service mode when done select developer, press button twice then turn machine off then on and it will refill. I have worked on many of these models. I have one with 990,000 prints on it, window cleaner never hurt it a bit. I dont ever remember doing anything with the cleaning blade but you can turn the drum back and forth just a little which sometimes will get rid of paper dust caught in the blade but 99% of time I dont. I just replace the drum unit. What I see on your print out looks like primary charge and dev unit.

[Phil B.]

here is how to tell where your problem is:
open the lid to stop the print just past the drum and not into the fixing assy.
If it looks good its your fixing assy
if it still looks bad could be drum cleaning blade but doubt it.
most likely the drum charge roller or developer unit.
You can clean the charge roller with window cleaner until it looks new, and I know some will say do not but I disagree.
Then the dev unit can be emptied and cleaned good or replaced, go into service mode when done select developer, press button twice then turn machine off then on and it will refill. I have worked on many of these models. I have one with 990,000 prints on it, window cleaner never hurt it a bit. I dont ever remember doing anything with the cleaning blade but you can turn the drum back and forth just a little which sometimes will get rid of paper dust caught in the blade but 99% of time I dont. I just replace the drum unit. What I see on your print out looks like primary charge and dev unit.

+ 1 for cleaning the PCR.. after the above process WC cleaning

I have used for a decade or two..

Take NU-Finish car polish ..
1) put enough NF to coat the the roller.. use a SOFT towel (Ilike terry cloth.. have plent of trash towels )to coat and buff the roller
2) You might have to repeat step one some times IF the roller does NOT have a nice shine.
3) make sure there are no globs of NF on the ends of the roller/shaft..reinstall
4) test for quality*** IF you see BUMPS on that roller that roller is trash... replace***

I learned this WAY back before color was a thing in laser based life forms..
and has worked on the Color units I have serviced.. ( Ricoh C435 )
I was getting when they 1st came out 20-45k on OEM Ricco's ('yield' was stated @ 120k)
after Proving to the boss (config sheets/CQ-PQ) fully listing the Problem/Page count/Page on repair/Repair/TIME spent ( 15-20 min per drum) BUT the SAVINGS for the boss was outstanding for Doug W.
He wanted another field test performed.. I instructed 2 other Techs (been there longer than me) and they performed the 'fix' .. 1 month of REAL hard evidence ... and the results came back.. 2 failures.. the other guys... when they re-did the process .. every thing was copacetic!
Not only did I get to submit to Ricoh the facts. I got a $250 initial spiff from boss, but do to my initial 'bargain' with Doug, I received a spiff of $2.50 PER DRUM ( he saved $120+ per drum) and was pushed to the the second in charge of service.. but it wasn't long till I revealed OTHER $$$ savings tips.. and yes I negotiated on each tip.

not bragging.. tryig to pass tips onto you guys not only on repairs.. but also how to gain the bosses trust and get more $$$ ( I love my job.. but really unless you own your biz) you ARE a slave to the MAN.. and I have met FEW that will honor their 'spoken' promises... CYA! get it in WRITING! ( for EVERYTHING! )

my 2cents

[Phil B.]

I don't think the manual describes cleaning the charge roller. It clips onto the drum and causes most quality issues. Can be cleaned with damp rag until it's dark black. Make sure it's dry before refitting.
That being said it's hard to tell if your issue is developer or even fuser. Maintenance kit has you covered with all 3.

+1 on cleaning .. try buffing/polish the PCR with NuFinish car polish .. bolder print/copy.. extends drum life ( as long as it isn't worn badly scratched )

[JPazy]

i would check the heat roller to see if teflon is worn, looks like streaks get worse at the tail end of the prints. TS tip on stopping the print half way through should indicate if it's drum or fuser related. Unlikely developer or generic toner, i would expect to see problem right from the start of the print.

[yourownfree]

+ 1 for cleaning the PCR.. after the above process WC cleaning

I have used for a decade or two..

Take NU-Finish car polish ..
1) put enough NF to coat the the roller.. use a SOFT towel (Ilike terry cloth.. have plent of trash towels )to coat and buff the roller
2) You might have to repeat step one some times IF the roller does NOT have a nice shine.
3) make sure there are no globs of NF on the ends of the roller/shaft..reinstall
4) test for quality*** IF you see BUMPS on that roller that roller is trash... replace***

I learned this WAY back before color was a thing in laser based life forms..
and has worked on the Color units I have serviced.. ( Ricoh C435 )
I was getting when they 1st came out 20-45k on OEM Ricco's ('yield' was stated @ 120k)
after Proving to the boss (config sheets/CQ-PQ) fully listing the Problem/Page count/Page on repair/Repair/TIME spent ( 15-20 min per drum) BUT the SAVINGS for the boss was outstanding for Doug W.
He wanted another field test performed.. I instructed 2 other Techs (been there longer than me) and they performed the 'fix' .. 1 month of REAL hard evidence ... and the results came back.. 2 failures.. the other guys... when they re-did the process .. every thing was copacetic!
Not only did I get to submit to Ricoh the facts. I got a $250 initial spiff from boss, but do to my initial 'bargain' with Doug, I received a spiff of $2.50 PER DRUM ( he saved $120+ per drum) and was pushed to the the second in charge of service.. but it wasn't long till I revealed OTHER $$$ savings tips.. and yes I negotiated on each tip.

not bragging.. tryig to pass tips onto you guys not only on repairs.. but also how to gain the bosses trust and get more $$$ ( I love my job.. but really unless you own your biz) you ARE a slave to the MAN.. and I have met FEW that will honor their 'spoken' promises... CYA! get it in WRITING! ( for EVERYTHING! )

my 2cents

Phil I like your idea. will this also work for organic drums? In case Stern wants to use your method on other drums. I would be interested as well.

[Phil B.]

Phil I like your idea. will this also work for organic drums? In case Stern wants to use your method on other drums. I would be interested as well.DO NOT USE ON THE DRUM.
Use ON any PCR.. does not affect drums of any kind i have tried on.. 31 yrs in industry. Always works.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

[yourownfree]

DO NOT USE ON THE DRUM.
Use ON any PCR.. does not affect drums of any kind i have tried on.. 31 yrs in industry. Always works.


Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
thanks for the update. you got me beat im at 28 years

[Drewsup]

[QUOTE=Phil B.;834945]+ 1 for cleaning the PCR.. after the above process WC cleaning

I have used for a decade or two..

Take NU-Finish car polish ..
1) put enough NF to coat the the roller.. use a SOFT towel (Ilike terry cloth.. have plent of trash towels )to coat and buff the roller
2) You might have to repeat step one some times IF the roller does NOT have a nice shine.
3) make sure there are no globs of NF on the ends of the roller/shaft..reinstall
4) test for quality*** IF you see BUMPS on that roller that roller is trash... replace***


We used Brasso or Werthers metal polish back in the day on Canon ir5000 and up drums, (way better than the cerium dioxide powder they gave us) really give it a good scrub and wipe down, makes the drum nice and slippery too! It was a must do every 500K on the bigger machines back then, I personally wouldnt use metal polish on organic drums, but if IRC, a lot did use Nufinish on them, its just a polish/sealer, not abrasive at all.

[Phil B.]

[QUOTE=Phil B.;834945]+ 1 for cleaning the PCR.. after the above process WC cleaning

I have used for a decade or two..

Take NU-Finish car polish ..
1) put enough NF to coat the the roller.. use a SOFT towel (Ilike terry cloth.. have plent of trash towels )to coat and buff the roller
2) You might have to repeat step one some times IF the roller does NOT have a nice shine.
3) make sure there are no globs of NF on the ends of the roller/shaft..reinstall
4) test for quality*** IF you see BUMPS on that roller that roller is trash... replace***

We used Brasso or Werthers metal polish back in the day on Canon ir5000 and up drums, (way better than the cerium dioxide powder they gave us) really give it a good scrub and wipe down, makes the drum nice and slippery too! It was a must do every 500K on the bigger machines back then, I personally wouldn't use metal polish on organic drums, but if IRC, a lot did use Nufinish on them, its just a polish/sealer, not abrasive at all.

I never put NuFinish on the drums .. only on the PCR's.

[rvptor]

[QUOTE=Drewsup;998474]

I never put NuFinish on the drums .. only on the PCR's.



There is a new service bulletin for PCRs....
corrosion under the tire is a problem that was solved in the new bulletin ... so they put the new component stainless