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schmeckles22
06-12-2020, 01:51 PM
Hello,

I have a C284e, I bought off a shady supplier - All is good with these printers for a few months then I come across this issue again.
Due to lack of knowledge on them I usually just return it and buy a new machine from them, but I am tired of doing this and would like to learn/fix it myself or at least know what is wrong with it.

I print around 4000 color pages a month with around 30-50% coverage of the A4.

If I print light colors, mainly light grey, light pink or light blue I get some dark lines down the page - I have attached an image of the problem.

https://i.imgur.com/6m2xdfd.png

GIUBOSS
06-12-2020, 03:25 PM
Hello,

I have a C284e, I bought off a shady supplier - All is good with these printers for a few months then I come across this issue again.
Due to lack of knowledge on them I usually just return it and buy a new machine from them, but I am tired of doing this and would like to learn/fix it myself or at least know what is wrong with it.

I print around 4000 color pages a month with around 30-50% coverage of the A4.

If I print light colors, mainly light grey, light pink or light blue I get some dark lines down the page - I have attached an image of the problem.

https://i.imgur.com/6m2xdfd.png

hello, 1) get at least one service manual to study, if you have to do technical assistance don't you think? 2) make a print with 100% coverage for each color (C, M, Y, Blk). Check the PM counters.

schmeckles22
06-12-2020, 03:33 PM
hello, 1) get at least one service manual to study, if you have to do technical assistance don't you think? 2) make a print with 100% coverage for each color (C, M, Y, Blk). Check the PM counters.

I have done full coverage in the past and the issue was with Yellow and Magenta.
The counters for the DR-512s is 0% because the shady company says they replaced them without resetting the chips.

copyman
06-12-2020, 03:48 PM
I have done full coverage in the past and the issue was with Yellow and Magenta.
The counters for the DR-512s is 0% because the shady company says they replaced them without resetting the chips.

Looks like you need a few drums and possibly the transfer belt. Some aftermarket drums work fine to save money. Also you can use the less expensive black drum for color but need to change the chip. Kon/Min knew people were doing this so the new style drums have the chip riveted in, you have to break out oem chip and there is a chip sold on internet with cutout to tightly fit around the rivet. No screw needed.

Toxic
06-12-2020, 04:23 PM
Sometimes this could be just dirty drum charging grid but if you have drum at 0% life i doubt that is the case.

tsbservice
06-12-2020, 04:32 PM
Print CMYK at 30% coverage one for every color. Then you will know which drum/drums is/are problematic, swap color drums around to verify faulty drums. As others said TBU may need change.

Cyclops85
06-12-2020, 04:50 PM
I would try black drum first then possibly colours ad transfer belt. If that doesn’t sort it possible dev units.


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Cyclops85
06-12-2020, 04:55 PM
I would try black drum first then possibly colour drums and transfer belt

schmeckles22
06-12-2020, 05:02 PM
Looks like you need a few drums and possibly the transfer belt. Some aftermarket drums work fine to save money. Also you can use the less expensive black drum for color but need to change the chip. Kon/Min knew people were doing this so the new style drums have the chip riveted in, you have to break out oem chip and there is a chip sold on internet with cutout to tightly fit around the rivet. No screw needed.

Thank you, I read that using the black drum as color with the chip change can cause issues with prints? Can you confirm this


Print CMYK at 30% coverage one for every color. Then you will know which drum/drums is/are problematic, swap color drums around to verify faulty drums. As others said TBU may need change.

Did not think about swapping drums to differentiate the problem! Good shout


I would try black drum first then possibly colour drums and transfer belt

Will look into it, thank you :)

femaster
06-12-2020, 09:58 PM
Thank you, I read that using the black drum as color with the chip change can cause issues with prints? Can you confirm this
Have done this hundreds of times. On this model you can do it without any problems.


Your sample definitely looks like drum(s), but without a sample print from each individual drum, it's hard to say which one(s).

Have you tried to clean the charge coronas or laser glass yet? Doing this might improve the quality of the output temporarily.



Open the front access door and CAREFULLY remove waste tone box (it will make a HUGE mess if you tip or drop it!). Each drum has a charge cleaner and a laser glass window. There may be instructions on the inside of the access door how to clean them, but it's real simple.



Charge cleaning: Grab the WHITE "flags" (Red circles in image) that are sticking out from each drum and carefully slide them in and out fully quite a few times. It's unlikely that it's ever been done before, so the more you do each the better. Maybe 10 to 20 times each.
Laser glass cleaning: Use the cleaning "wand" (Green circle in image) mounted inside the front access door. With the waste box removed, you will see small slots under each of the drum/dev assemblies. They are marked with a light blue rectangle just below the opening (Green arrows in image). Slide the wand in and out 2 or 3 times in each slot. It can be a tight fit sometimes, so take care, especially when removing the wand so as to not tear off the cleaning pad.


45908

copyman
06-12-2020, 10:38 PM
[QUOTE=schmeckles22;1499989]Thank you, I read that using the black drum as color with the chip change can cause issues with prints? Can you confirm this


FYI, I wouldn't recommend something on this forum if not proven to work!

Cyclops85
06-12-2020, 11:23 PM
[QUOTE=schmeckles22;1499989]Thank you, I read that using the black drum as color with the chip change can cause issues with prints? Can you confirm this


FYI, I wouldn't recommended something on this forum if not proven to work!


Black and colour drums are exactly the same on the E series. Only difference is the chip and the little K sticker on the front.

blackcat4866
06-12-2020, 11:52 PM
Let's see if I can add to what's already here:

I've noticed that shades of blue will be the most difficult to reproduce since it uses all four colors. I've attached a document that you can print that might help differentiate which colors are troublesome.

First: clean corona wires and laser slit glasses.
Second: Print Letter chart.
Third: confirm which colors are affected.
Fourth: Replace affected drums.
Fifth: Perform stabilization and gradation.
Sixth: print Letter chart to confirm improvement.

You'll find the information that you need in the service manual.

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