FS534 Exit Drive issues...

[Synaux]

HI all, I hope yall had a great Father’s Day!

I got two FS534s that have “Exit Section” problems. First off, if anyone has any for sale for a reasonable price I will greedily buy any/all of them (even for parts).

Anyways, I am getting code c1144 after a rebuild and I am almost certain I accidentally put this clutch-gear junk on the opposite way (doh!) [cannot upload picts? [[Aneurysm wt*!]].

My question is (sorry if this is a simple question, but I am at the end of my patience and just looking for a quick answer):

Can I simply reverse the polarity to the drive-motor by soldering on the leads in opposite directly to the motor to make it spin in reverse? You should be able to search in the service manual for “Pre-eject drive motor (M9)” and know what I am talking about.


I don’t know if any of you have rebuilt these things, but this reminds me of the unholy disaster when the drive-cables for the ADF became misaligned and eventually de-spooled on a c650 years ago (okay maybe not that bad… but the frustration is the same). Give me a FS535 at least they are not ran with toothpicks and rubber bands.



Thanks!

[srvctec]

HI all, I hope yall had a great Father’s Day!

I got two FS534s that have “Exit Section” problems. First off, if anyone has any for sale for a reasonable price I will greedily buy any/all of them (even for parts).

Anyways, I am getting code c1144 after a rebuild and I am almost certain I accidentally put this clutch-gear junk on the opposite way (doh!) [cannot upload picts? [[Aneurysm wt*!]].

My question is (sorry if this is a simple question, but I am at the end of my patience and just looking for a quick answer):

Can I simply reverse the polarity to the drive-motor by soldering on the leads in opposite directly to the motor to make it spin in reverse? You should be able to search in the service manual for “Pre-eject drive motor (M9)” and know what I am talking about.


I don’t know if any of you have rebuilt these things, but this reminds me of the unholy disaster when the drive-cables for the ADF became misaligned and eventually de-spooled on a c650 years ago (okay maybe not that bad… but the frustration is the same). Give me a FS535 at least they are not ran with toothpicks and rubber bands.



Thanks!

That might work but not sure. I had this exact code a few weeks ago on a FS534 and ordered the one way bearing pulley and replaced it. Since M9 just moves the pre-eject part in and out, maybe it would work? Here's what I'd do instead of going all in on re-soldering the leads in opposite from normal, just insert small wires or use test leads and reverse it at the plug for the motor, just for testing purposes. If it works, let us know!:cool: IIRC, there is a cam inside that moves around a track and if it goes backwards, might cause an issue with lead reversal/motor turning backwards, unless that's driven by the other motor (can't remember). Another thing I'd do is to turn the motor backwards by hand and see if anything binds up.

Here's the old style one-way pulley that the outside broke on and cause the code on my service call. Machine is a C284e at over a million copy count.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200623/5697f365a01f743aa9b31f099e1b044c.jpg

[Synaux]

That might work but not sure. I had this exact code a few weeks ago on a FS534 and ordered the one way bearing pulley and replaced it. Since M9 just moves the pre-eject part in and out, maybe it would work? Here's what I'd do instead of going all in on re-soldering the leads in opposite from normal, just insert small wires or use test leads and reverse it at the plug for the motor, just for testing purposes. If it works, let us know!:cool: IIRC, there is a cam inside that moves around a track and if it goes backwards, might cause an issue with lead reversal/motor turning backwards, unless that's driven by the other motor (can't remember). Another thing I'd do is to turn the motor backwards by hand and see if anything binds up.

Here's the old style one-way pulley that the outside broke on and cause the code on my service call. Machine is a C284e at over a million copy count.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200623/5697f365a01f743aa9b31f099e1b044c.jpg
Okay here are my discoveries: the M9 runs off of 3.3v which is a standard output of a computer PSU. I hotwired a PSU to run constantly and supplied 3.3v to the motor and reversing the polarity did indeed change the direction of the rotation. The rotation speed seemed a little slow, but the SM says 3.3v so I am going with it. I suspected as much, but I wanted to ask here first as those little motors are fairly expensive. And thank god I brought 2 PSUs and my multimeter as one PSU was bad, creating a real head scratcher for a minute. Go figure. Alas, my soldering iron is in my other bag, but I am fairly confident this will work.

**edit** unfortunately, the more I think about it, I think the other pulley on the shaft will bind it up. I will still try it though...



Some less important ramblings if you are bored:

I can turn the motor both ways, no binding—the wrong way simply does nothing. And I had the same “pulley” (the gear you posted a picture of) break almost identically (~500k on this finisher). I also had the PS 18 or 19 pop out of the fitments (depending on the finisher) generating a false J7221 (or I hope that is what it is). Anyways that stupid little pulley is $150.00 (say hello, JB Weld)! Did you actually spend that much or did you find a reasonable distributor? What is frustrating and making this whole job pressing is that this code renders the machine almost completely useless (well I guess it can be ran without the finisher and transport section). I cannot even run a load check, why in the world would something that only affects one output tray be elevated to an extent that it cripples the entire machine is beyond me—big brain stuff right there. Moreover, I just now found in the Theory of Operation the rotation! There is a pretty picture of the exit section with no rotation arrows, but if you keep going there is ANOTHER picture a few more pages down that shows the rotation. This is the only section that has this information and the only one I didn’t notice (and I initially went through the whole manual with find commands before reassembly) … FFS! ...



Also, there is a bulletin covering many things about c1144 one of the more curious ones I happened to just read is “Stacker plate drive motor (M17) wiring is reversed polarity. (FS*535 only). Resolder wiring to correct polarity; red wire to the contact with the red dot on the motor (M17). If necessary, replace M17 (p/n A2Y1R70300).” Albeit not a direct reference, here I thought I could outsmart KM. :rolleyes:

[srvctec]

The replacement one-way pulley came direct from Konica Minolta and our cost was around $26 I think. It wasn't too bad taking it all apart (the first time I had ever done it and the only one in our office to do it so far). I took pictures of it all and never had to refer to them putting it back together. I actually enjoy doing stuff like that and learning how it all works. I always wondered how that eject assembly worked and now I know.

When I took it apart, I discovered it was better to leave one half mostly together (the side with the most stuff attached) and then get to the bad pulley.

[Synaux]

The replacement one-way pulley came direct from Konica Minolta and our cost was around $26 I think. It wasn't too bad taking it all apart (the first time I had ever done it and the only one in our office to do it so far). I took pictures of it all and never had to refer to them putting it back together. I actually enjoy doing stuff like that and learning how it all works. I always wondered how that eject assembly worked and now I know.

When I took it apart, I discovered it was better to leave one half mostly together (the side with the most stuff attached) and then get to the bad pulley.

Well maybe I missed something, but I couldn't take the inner shell off of one side to work from.

I also did the same thing and left half of it together.

I actually didnt mind it too much myself, but I had a timeline and failed to get this office running. The belts were a little annoying and getting that shaft out was a cluster. When it did come out it went flying (my fault) hence the confusion.

[srvctec]

Well maybe I missed something, but I couldn't take the inner shell off of one side to work from.

I also did the same thing and left half of it together.

I actually didnt mind it too much myself, but I had a timeline and failed to get this office running. The belts were a little annoying and getting that shaft out was a cluster. When it did come out it went flying (my fault) hence the confusion.Doh! I hate when a part goes flying! That's the worst feeling.

Full disclosure on my service call. I noticed the cracked outer plastic of the pulley and thought I'd just super glue it to make it work at least temporarily until we got the part in, not expecting the glue to hold because it never does when you really need it to. Well, it held but some got onto the e-clip next to the pulley and glued the pulley to the shaft via the e-clip which made the timing of the whole thing wrong and stapling not work. Thankfully, when I got it apart, that's all that was glued together because I thought the one way was glued to the shaft and then I'd have no way of knowing the proper orientation of it other than that tiny arrow on the side.

[Synaux]

Okay, I finally have one finisher fixed. The other one is just a matter of assembly. There are a few things that I will take pictures of the other unit in hopes that it will help someone else when my smart-dumb-phone is charged.

And word to the wise, do not be in a rush and connect the finisher and not the output assembly back on just to test. It threw c1102 and made a terrible racket as the motor kept trying to move up against the housing. Had to use some tape to trick the sensors then attach the output tray assembly. What a rush lol :rolleyes:

[srvctec]

And word to the wise, do not be in a rush and connect the finisher and not the output assembly back on just to test. It threw c1102 and made a terrible racket as the motor kept trying to move up against the housing. Had to use some tape to trick the sensors then attach the output tray assembly. What a rush lol :rolleyes:

Ha! That exact thing happened to me as well when I was testing. Sounds sort of like a machine gun. BUT, I found a quick way to move the output tray assembly up and down as long as the back cover is off. Just slide the spring loaded cam that drives it, over a little and the assy can be easily moved up and down without having to turn the motor. Didn't know about that before and it sure would have saved some time over the years.

[Synaux]

Ha! That exact thing happened to me as well when I was testing. Sounds sort of like a machine gun. BUT, I found a quick way to move the output tray assembly up and down as long as the back cover is off. Just slide the spring loaded cam that drives it, over a little and the assy can be easily moved up and down without having to turn the motor. Didn't know about that before and it sure would have saved some time over the years.

Final update:

I got the second drive exit assembly together. (JB-welded the pulley and promptly installed backwards again! :cool:). For some reason, the inner shell of the exit unit became significantly looser than my other attempts (even though I have no idea what I did different). Anyways, now that I have done this far too many times for 2 fixes this is really becoming a breeze.

I plug it in and was getting code 7218. So I swapped PS4 (FNS entrance sensor) as the I/O state wasn't changing (the bracket that sensor is attached to is annoying; as a result, I had to use some tape to keep the wires in the catches).

I noticed that on both finishers the wire shielding was significantly frayed at the end of those brackets, so if you get a mysterious 7218 you might want to check that.

Anyways, no change in Sensor Check. So I checked the FSCB to find that J4 connection was not fully seated (another :cool: moment).

I cannot believe the output tray is that easy to lower. The moment I figured out what you meant in practice, I just kind of sat there bewildered for a moment. I had given up on this finisher at one time as I didn't want to deal with taking that apparatus apart (it is just a spare finisher that arrived jammed up from the distributor that they got replaced).

Now this location has the ability to switch finishers if something goes wrong and call me later. There is a guy there that is pretty smart; I trained him how to swap the finishers safely.

Cheers!