All is lost? c654 scanner cables de-spooled..

[Synaux]

Ok. I royally screwed up.
Send me demerit points.
I deserve it.
I have watched this happen first-hand on a c650 and swore I would never-ever-ever do the same thing. But I did it...I think i had a mild stroke as it happened.

To save reading time, does anyone have any tips for re-spooling these cables?

Backstory: I was getting skew on DF and platten scans, I went through everything and figured it might have been one of those plastic rivet things like on the c650s that could screw the drive up. As I am fiddling around I applied just a tiny bit too much pressure on one side and it de-spooled (I know...I know...)

Anyways, I have cut slots to bend the frame out to get to the rollers and almost got it with an associate, but then the other side decided to f-off. Anyone have a spare IR section? :rolleyes:

[allan]

Done those once to many times before, not always me that was the cause but the one who ends up with the problem. Ouch
Need more than a set of hands. So find someone to help.

Find a c654 to use as a sample. Push the scanner to a set position where there will be space to work around it.
Then count amount of turns on the coiling and uncoiling side of the same pulley.
Even the cable constructions are not the same so the cables can not be swoped out front to back.
Some machine will have a red or blue marking on the cable to indicate the front or rear cable.


Then use the power of the octopus to rewind the cables.
After you are done you will realize its not that complicated just tricky to get done.

Good luck.

[blackcat4866]

One of the tricks that I use is to move light source #1 to the 1/3 or 2/3 position then secure it so that it won't wiggle around on you (black tape, tie wraps, copper wire ... whatever you've got). Once you've got the drum spooled up properly wrap it in black tape to keep it from unspooling while your routing the cables & pulleys.

At this point you almost have to have a strung scanner to look at to count wraps and follow cable routing. Current manuals don't even offer you an illustration, let alone guidance.

The first machine that I was actually trained on was a Mita DC-313Z, and in class we de-strung/re-strung scanner cables. It was a good thing too. At 1M scans a cable would break, and analog machines scanned once for every image. =^..^=

[Synthohol]

you need a special jig, i went through this before covid.
see attached.

[tech28]

Electrical tape, man, last one I had to do was a Minolta 450Z, in a basement with very if any light. Good luck! :) Took several trip walkingmoutside to regroup, but like they said 4 hands and two sets of eyes will be much easier, but if can be done.

[tech28]

Fingers not working today! Sorry! :)

[wjurls]

Anyone have a spare IR section? :rolleyes:

As a matter of fact, YES! LOL

No idea what it takes to remove the entire optic section though.

[EarthKmTech]

I did this on a c458.

After cutting my large hands up trying to put the cable back on i said fk-this, and called the office and said: REPLACE IT!

Problem solved.

various bits and pieces of the machine went to save the lives of others so all was not lost before it went to the giant copier grinder.

[Synaux]

As a matter of fact, YES! LOL

No idea what it takes to remove the entire optic section though.


It's not hard other then the bezels, I think there is a screw behind the display that might be a turd....let me know :cool:

[allan]

I did this on a c458.

After cutting my large hands up trying to put the cable back on i said fk-this, and called the office and said: REPLACE IT!

Problem solved.

various bits and pieces of the machine went to save the lives of others so all was not lost before it went to the giant copier grinder.



Really missing that luxury.:(

[Synthohol]

when i did them i forced myself to make it work, it took 3 difficult obscenity tossing, career questioning, blaspheming tries.
i have a title at work and i have to live up to it.
if there is an official konica procedure documented im expected to be able to perform it.
sometimes its not a choice but an opportunity to put another notch in your belt.
i just replaced my umpteenth fuser drive assy and just kind of watched my hands do it from a distance if you can relate.
i cant stress the importance of the jig though. only the KMBS DMs are allowed to have them.

[Synaux]

you need a special jig, i went through this before covid.
see attached.

I am getting ready to tackle this over the weekend at home. There I can throw as many conniptions as needed, get into a fight with the help, berate the dog and drink myself into a stupor if necessary. (Also, if the attached is a bulletin in the active solutions, I apologize for missing it.)

There does not seem to be a picture/illustration of the jig itself.

Can someone post a pict of it so I can try to emulate it (if possible). Further, I am willing to compensate anyone willing to get me the jig or perhaps even rent one?

Thanks everyone :)

[blackcat4866]

The typical scanner drum jig is a kinda "C" shape that snaps tightly over each of the drive drums (read: you need 2) to keep the cable from unspooling while you're routing the rest of the wire and pulleys. The black tape trick is just as effective and far less technical. Just wind up the wire rope and wrap the drum in tape to keep it from unspooling. You'll want your hemostats and spring hooks on hand, plus an extra set of hands that doesn't mind your cursing. =^..^=

[Synthohol]

the jig is a plate with nubs that go in some of the top holes in the scanner frame. some are covered with a thick mylar.
when the cables are all in place and the scanner is resting on the part of the jig that hangs in the cavity for a reference point. its then you tighten the scanner to the cables.
its not like home position.
the jig is in the doc i posted. it says zeus upside down. its the same color as the frame, thats why its hard to see.