Bizhub C258 high pitch whine when copying/printing

[Scarekrow]

Bizhub C258 high pitch whine when copying/printing done 425k, changed k drum, checked M1 motor & wd40 on bearing, checked transfer belt, 2nd transfer roller and paper feed, checked K dev unit. I have a recording of it but wrong extension to upload here, can email it.

Thanks.

[progoffice]

I had something like this on a C284e and for me it ended up being the black DV unit. I was able to do a load check with covers open and pinpointed the noise there. It was not what I was expecting, but I think you're on the right track. You can take the drums out and force the main motor to drive with the front door open and the actuator pushed in so it thinks it's closed. Then you can push on things and see if the noise changes.

[copyman]

Bizhub C258 high pitch whine when copying/printing done 425k, changed k drum, checked M1 motor & wd40 on bearing, checked transfer belt, 2nd transfer roller and paper feed, checked K dev unit. I have a recording of it but wrong extension to upload here, can email it.

Thanks.

Does it have the FS-543 finisher? The RU-513 relay units have a known issue with squealing noise. Believe there is a bulletin on it. Not your issue if no finisher

[Scarekrow]

I had something like this on a C284e and for me it ended up being the black DV unit. I was able to do a load check with covers open and pinpointed the noise there. It was not what I was expecting, but I think you're on the right track. You can take the drums out and force the main motor to drive with the front door open and the actuator pushed in so it thinks it's closed. Then you can push on things and see if the noise changes.

It does sound electrical, I may try swapping it out, thanks.

[Scarekrow]

Does it have the FS-543 finisher? The RU-513 relay units have a known issue with squealing noise. Believe there is a bulletin on it. Not your issue if no finisher

No finisher, just top feeder and 4 paper draws.

[progoffice]

It does sound electrical, I may try swapping it out, thanks.

What I mean by load check is the option in the service mode/state confirmation. This is where you can turn motors on individually for testing purposes - not really referring to an electrical load check. Didn't mean to point you in the wrong direction.

[tsbservice]

I'm guessing without hearing noise but electrical noise pitch may also comes from power supply.

[Scarekrow]

What I mean by load check is the option in the service mode/state confirmation. This is where you can turn motors on individually for testing purposes - not really referring to an electrical load check. Didn't mean to point you in the wrong direction.

Ah I see, I did look in state confirm and looked for that but only saw senor check then got side tracked, will check that.

[Scarekrow]

I'm guessing without hearing noise but electrical noise pitch may also comes from power supply.

Good idea.

[drowranger]

what about rego roller bearings and transfer roller holder gears/bearing ..

[Synaux]

Ah I see, I did look in state confirm and looked for that but only saw senor check then got side tracked, will check that.
If it is like the 4 series, it should be in State Confirmation, the trick is to Open the lower front door or the right door to allow you to do the testing, you will need a manual if you do not have one to know what codes to input to run your tests. Good luck :)

[Scarekrow]

what about rego roller bearings and transfer roller holder gears/bearing ..

I put a drop of lube on the 2nd transfer roller bearings, paper feed unit cogs/bearings, reg roller bearings, took out the belt and rolled it to check for noise, its not the fuser cos that is still active as the noise stops as it spits out the paper.

[rrrohan]

Be good to hear the recording you have.

Can you host it from OneDrive for us?

Sent from my Nokia 7 plus using Tapatalk

[Scarekrow]

Be good to hear the recording you have.

Can you host it from OneDrive for us?

Sent from my Nokia 7 plus using Tapatalk

Voice 008.m4a - Google Drive (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f75SyncZF2Y1KeZFWXlYJ2V_P91k_CkB/view?usp=sharing)

[Don N.]

"changed k drum"
Is the new K drum OEM?
Known issue on aftermarket drums. I believe it's the drum cylinder itself. Varying levels of that noise, but almost imperceptible with an OEM. It's a high voltage noise. I would get that out of there, bc we had some last a day, a month, but ultimately make weird lines in feed direction, if not total black page on first copy. We may have had that with an OEM once. Can't remember.

[Scarekrow]

"changed k drum"
Is the new K drum OEM?
Known issue on aftermarket drums. I believe it's the drum cylinder itself. Varying levels of that noise, but almost imperceptible with an OEM. It's a high voltage noise. I would get that out of there, bc we had some last a day, a month, but ultimately make weird lines in feed direction, if not total black page on first copy. We may have had that with an OEM once. Can't remember.

I did try a different black drum in the machine, but the noise was the same, they maybe katun drums, how ever I have just been listening to the machine we have in the showroom and i can hear the same noise but at a very reduced level, I have gone through the loadcheck but the things I can switch on don't produce the sound so im at a loss to pin point it.

[Don N.]

I did try a different black drum in the machine, but the noise was the same, they maybe katun drums, how ever I have just been listening to the machine we have in the showroom and i can hear the same noise but at a very reduced level, I have gone through the loadcheck but the things I can switch on don't produce the sound so im at a loss to pin point it.

We had to return every KTN drm313k for that reason! Put an OEM in.

[Don N.]

Here's Katun's resolution document. Looks like they're releasing a new batch for us to try.
46424

[blackcat4866]

I've heard this particular "ringing" noise when the drum blade resists the drum rotation, on many other makes and models. Temporarily you may be able to quiet it down by priming the drum blade. Sometimes generic toner does not adequately lubricate the drum blade. =^..^=

[Don N.]

I've heard this particular "ringing" noise when the drum blade resists the drum rotation, on many other makes and models. Temporarily you may be able to quiet it down by priming the drum blade. Sometimes generic toner does not adequately lubricate the drum blade. =^..^=

Back in the day we had many issues with cleaning blades oscillating/ringing/singing. We had a white liquid paste blade primer that worked well... if only for a while. I don't completely agree with Katun's assesment bc our issues with lines across the page were evident in the morning only and gone by noon, and the symptom showed up months after the drum was replaced. Not with the 100 pages they experienced at all.
Also the clicking was once every revolution of the charge roller, or drum (don't remember which), as if there was a burr on the gear. We couldn't find anything in or on the gear. Pulled 3 new ones out of the box & spin them by hand. All 3 clicked. Test pages showed a faint line like a bias line or vibration that corresponded with each click. Not likely that the cleaning blade would arbitrarily grab & release exactly once per revolution. That kind of behavior would change when subjected to bizhub gradation and halftone test prints due to the large amount of toner applied.
Maybe they'd be willing to send me a few testers.

I'd really like to know why the claim that the k drum is not the same as the cmy for the 8 series as it has been for the 0 and 4/e series. Yes there's a plastic stopper (easily removed). Then there's the chip. What else? I'm told you can't just chip an 8 series k drum as cmy... Why?

[femaster]

I'd really like to know why the claim that the k drum is not the same as the cmy for the 8 series as it has been for the 0 and 4/e series. Yes there's a plastic stopper (easily removed). Then there's the chip. What else? I'm told you can't just chip an 8 series k drum as cmy... Why?

There is the small plastic stopper on the right side of the black drum, there is the chip you need to swap, and then there is a change in the front left area near the drum. See the attached image. At one point you could remove the pieces and just swap between the 2 drums, but apparently they modified it making it impossible to do that now.

Some people have said that this piece is a spacer to keep the drum a certain distance from the development unit. I say it's not. I've looked at it pretty closely, and as far as I can tell, this piece does not touch the development unit at all. What I've started doing is just clipping the tab off with a small pair of end cutters (nippers), down just far enough so that the drum fits into the machine. So far haven't had a bit of problem, which if that truly was a spacer, I'd figure I would have seen one by now. Just my opinion, your welcome to try if you like, or not...

46431

[Don N.]

femaster
Looks like you knocked that one outta da park!
We'll try that out. Thanks.

[Scarekrow]

femaster
Looks like you knocked that one outta da park!
We'll try that out. Thanks.

I have changed the drum and still got the same noise, I will try an oem drum just to check.

It doesn't do the noise on start up, but does the noise when using the bypass feed.


if you want to use K drums as colour drums, then keep the front end caps from your colour drums and swap them onto black drums with col chip and break off the right side spacer. otherwise you will get half a colour fade down the side of copies, the dev space is crutial.

[Don N.]

I have changed the drum and still got the same noise, I will try an oem drum just to check.

It doesn't do the noise on start up, but does the noise when using the bypass feed.


if you want to use K drums as colour drums, then keep the front end caps from your colour drums and swap them onto black drums with col chip and break off the right side spacer. otherwise you will get half a colour fade down the side of copies, the dev space is crutial.

The documented high pitch noise on aftermarket drums is heard anytime high voltage/charge is applied. During part of stabilization and copy process.
Appreciate the tip on saving color front end caps.

[femaster]

There is the small plastic stopper on the right side of the black drum, there is the chip you need to swap, and then there is a change in the front left area near the drum. See the attached image. At one point you could remove the pieces and just swap between the 2 drums, but apparently they modified it making it impossible to do that now.

Some people have said that this piece is a spacer to keep the drum a certain distance from the development unit. I say it's not. I've looked at it pretty closely, and as far as I can tell, this piece does not touch the development unit at all. What I've started doing is just clipping the tab off with a small pair of end cutters (nippers), down just far enough so that the drum fits into the machine. So far haven't had a bit of problem, which if that truly was a spacer, I'd figure I would have seen one by now. Just my opinion, your welcome to try if you like, or not...

46431

I need to make a correction to this post, as I made an extensive look into this yesterday. I was in the office doing a full tear-down and refurb on a C284e and took some time to thoroughly look at the connection between the development unit and the drum units. The tab indicated in the image above for all models with this style setup DO in fact interface with the development unit. That location is where the silver bearing on each end of the mag roller in the development unit rests.

Just to clarify my recommendation of trimming the tab in my original post: When modifying a Cxx8 series black drum to fit as a color drum, if you elect to snip off the tab with end cutters as I have been doing, it is important to cut it down so that it is even with the height of the rest of that plastic piece. Basically you want it trimmed down enough to the point that there is no longer a tab, but is an even height across the whole piece, like you find on the color drums. I have personally been doing this the whole time, so it would explain why I haven't been having any issues with it.

[Scarekrow]

Problem Identified, It was the drums The drum I swapped it with must have been from the same batch as swapping it again with an OEM drum stopped the noise, when I got back to the workshop I tested a new Katun drum and it was fine, so it must have been from a different supplier or an older katun drum, the only visible difference was the the one that was making the noise was a dark olive green colour as opposed to the katun one that was ok been a lighter green colour.

Thanks Don for pushing on that idea and for all the input from everyone else.

[Don N.]

Problem Identified, It was the drums The drum I swapped it with must have been from the same batch as swapping it again with an OEM drum stopped the noise, when I got back to the workshop I tested a new Katun drum and it was fine, so it must have been from a different supplier or an older katun drum, the only visible difference was the the one that was making the noise was a dark olive green colour as opposed to the katun one that was ok been a lighter green colour.

Thanks Don for pushing on that idea and for all the input from everyone else.

Appreciate you reporting the solution! It bears repeating, ( I think I posted already?) Katun is coming out with a redesigned batch. We've been all OEM since returning defects from 2 diff. suppliers. Will likely try KTN again pending succes with converting K drums to CMY with 2-3 steps on 8 series.