MX-3050N showing H2-01 error

[Charfamine]

Hi all,

I have an MX-3050N with a total of 60k prints/Copies showing H1-01 error. We replaced the thermistors and tried to clear the error but it is still there.

It seems like the error clearing is not working. When we checked the error history, we found different types of errors L4-16; H4-00; C4-40; H5-01, H2-06, H4-02, L3-00.....

[mansart]

47091

[bilyahn]

Did you try a different fuser? I've found on this series when a fuser has any type of H1,2,3,4 code just to replace it. There is a metal bar under the belt unit that holds the thermistors and I have had success replacing the entire assembly but not the individual parts (not exactly sure why). So we wind up replacing the fusing unit most of the time. 60K is not unheard of for replacement, unfortunately

Good luck

Bil

[Nachoman4life]

these newer models have non resetable thermostats, they are the series wired, if one pops, you need to replace the harness. Im thinking of a way to reset them, but havent put much effort into it yet. also can be easily checked for continuity, the trip plate may look inverted on one that is open compared to the one that isnt.

[leo34staffs]

these newer models have non resetable thermostats, they are the series wired, if one pops, you need to replace the harness. Im thinking of a way to reset them, but havent put much effort into it yet. also can be easily checked for continuity, the trip plate may look inverted on one that is open compared to the one that isnt.

I find that good ole blu-tack works a treat for resetting thermostats, although should not be done too often on the same thermostat.

[tmw]

One time I got one reset by turning a can of air upside down shooting it with whatever that frozen stuff is that comes out.

[miller01123@gmail.com]

Did you reset the code in sims after?

[tmw]

On a sharp you would have to reset it. This one I did the trick for was for a Ricoh which you have to reset as well. No matter the brand, that's the principle how those thermos work.

[bigdaddyooo]

look at the 2 switches and you will notice that 1 will probably be concave instead of convex. The concave switch is the one that needs a smack or a blast of air from an upside down can of air. There is a tech bulletin on that switch unit. MFP-TB-1574

[mojorolla]

Did you try a different fuser? I've found on this series when a fuser has any type of H1,2,3,4 code just to replace it. There is a metal bar under the belt unit that holds the thermistors and I have had success replacing the entire assembly but not the individual parts (not exactly sure why). So we wind up replacing the fusing unit most of the time. 60K is not unheard of for replacement, unfortunately

Good luck

Bil

The "metal bar" gets warped and the thermistors flake out. There is a bulletin for this exact issue.


:)

[nanohitmen]

One time I got one reset by turning a can of air upside down shooting it with whatever that frozen stuff is that comes out.

yep that works, also tossing them in a freezer overnight but quick fix is the can of air upside down trick.

[Nachoman4life]

At least for me, its not been a huge issue, have replaced 4 thermostat harnesses, that were obviously open circuit, but its annoying, for sharp to suddenly move to non reset-able stats. I have taken a few apart, and there is a small plastic mini dowel, in them them that makes them hard to reset. I had tried, the canned freeze method, and smacking them on a surface, to flip the dielectric plate, but its not a guaranteed fix. Leo34staffs, mentioned using an adhesive to pull the plate back out, I havent tried it yet but, his idea seems good. I was thinking a wax to do the same thing. As the new thermo-detect goes, they seem to pop quite a bit less than the canister thermostats used to, so that is a plus.

[Hansen88]

these newer models have non resetable thermostats, they are the series wired, if one pops, you need to replace the harness. Im thinking of a way to reset them, but havent put much effort into it yet. also can be easily checked for continuity, the trip plate may look inverted on one that is open compared to the one that isnt.
A lot of toshibas had non resetable thermostats and we would slap the face of the thermostat and it would pop the concave heat reactive disk back out and they work good as new again,as long as you fix whatever made it pop in the first place. I have not tried it but I heard if you put the thermostat into the freezer it will make that disk pop back out.

[Hansen88]

A lot of toshibas had non resetable thermostats and we would slap the face of the thermostat and it would pop the concave heat reactive disk back out and they work good as new again,as long as you fix whatever made it pop in the first place. I have not tried it but I heard if you put the thermostat into the freezer it will make that disk pop back out.
After reading this post fully I see my suggestions were already mentioned.