Bizhub 364e - clicking/knocking noise at idle

[Elmojo]

Well, the title says most of it.
This video (https://youtu.be/ndbhYOiz7tE) will hopefully explain it better than I could try to describe.
The video quality is intentionally horrible, since I was just trying to capture the sound.
It's not super loud, so you might have to turn up your volume a bit.
Anyone recognize that sound?
Please tell me it's not something expensive. :)
The machine seems to be running perfectly, it just makes that really annoying noise until it times out and does to sleep.

Speaking of sleep... where the heck is that setting? I recall seeing it during my initial setup, but I can't seem to find the the place to edit the sleep time-out any more. I'd like to shorten it, since I don't print or copy all that often during the day.

Thanks!
-E

[Synthohol]

Knocking is usually the fuser.
Sleep is in admin mode.
Those series have issues recovering from sleep sometimes.
You can always press the panel power button to put it to sleep after use.
Do you need a service manual? You are a contributor so I don't mind helping you with that.

[Elmojo]

Thanks Synth!
Now that you mention it, I seem to recall maybe that's why I have the sleep set so long...
I have the SM. You were kind enough to send it to me before, when I was working on it originally. :)

So with the fuser knocking, is it just one of those "replace it and move on" situations, or is there anything to diagnose or fix there?

[Elmojo]

...is there anything to diagnose or fix there?

Boy, I sure hope there's a way to repair/rebuild that fusing unit. I just looked it up on eBay and I'm seeing prices around $400. :eek:
Does that sound right?
If I do have to replace the whole thing, is there a better source than eBay that isn't quite so pricey?
What's the ramifications of running it like it is? Other than the annoying noise, is it doing damage to the machine?

[allan]

Boy, I sure hope there's a way to repair/rebuild that fusing unit. I just looked it up on eBay and I'm seeing prices around $400. :eek:
Does that sound right?
If I do have to replace the whole thing, is there a better source than eBay that isn't quite so pricey?
What's the ramifications of running it like it is? Other than the annoying noise, is it doing damage to the machine?


Yes you get some real comprehensive and quality rebuild kits out there. Cost less than 1/3 of a new unit.

[Elmojo]

Yes you get some real comprehensive and quality rebuild kits out there. Cost less than 1/3 of a new unit.

Any suggestions of good ones, or places to look?
I've done a little searching and come up only with either sketchy-looking sites, or parts that I'm not sure have anything to do with my machine.

[copyman]

I know that noise all to well. This is the definite fix: Replace the small bearings in fuser. The one that will make noise is the belt pressure roller. very easy take side covers off and can replace bearing(s) without removing rollers. The bearing is the small common one. I remove and use the ones in the FS-534, etc fusers. Copylite sells the fuser rollers, belt, & small bearings. If quality is good you can fix that noise in less than 30 mins and 2 bearings. Cost is $6 unless you have the 2 common bearings than cost is $0!

[Synthohol]

600,000 clicks for 400. is still a whopping good deal.
install a new one and rebuild the old one at your leisure so if something breaks the machine wont be down for a lousy clicking noise.
my .02

[Elmojo]

I know that noise all to well. This is the definite fix: Replace the small bearings in fuser. The one that will make noise is the belt pressure roller. very easy take side covers off and can replace bearing(s) without removing rollers. The bearing is the small common one. I remove and use the ones in the FS-534, etc fusers. Copylite sells the fuser rollers, belt, & small bearings. If quality is good you can fix that noise in less than 30 mins and 2 bearings. Cost is $6 unless you have the 2 common bearings than cost is $0!

Awesome! :cool:
So the 'belt pressure roller' you mention, is that what they call the lower roller on most sites? I could look that up in the SM, but I'm FAR too lazy for all that. :rolleyes:
I'm checking Copylite, and I don't see my exact model, but would it be this one maybe (https://www.copylite.com/Catalog/ProductDetail?productNo=50GA53590&manufacturer=Konica%20Minolta)?

[Elmojo]

600,000 clicks for 400. is still a whopping good deal.

That's an excellent point, but it's one reason I was suspicious of the noise, since I only have about 284K images total on this machine.
I guess it could just be age rather than clicks, since the machine is quite a few years old I'm sure.
The fusing unit is reporting 71% life, with a start date of 6/24/2016.
Does any of that sound unusual to anyone, for it to be having issues? I know anything can fail at any time, I'm just thinking about my time as an Oce' tech, where we would view prematurely failing parts as a potential indicator of another part of the system having a hidden problem that hadn't shown up yet. Maybe that thought process doesn't apply here, just mentally spitballing...

[allan]

Dig into the fuser and check if its as simple as a bearing. Those bearings can be bought from any bearing supplier.
Is its something else that can be found in a kit? Get a kit and replace only the broken bit.

They are not that bad to rebuild. Better than replacing rollers on a KM B250. Take pictures before you strip too far.

[Synthohol]

there is an oil roller in the fuser that dries out especially being that old.
try removing it (2 c clips) clean the black roller with scotchbrite and maybe it will take some strain away from the moving parts and a few drops of truflo in the bearings should be more than sufficient ive found.

[Elmojo]

So I don't know jack about the insides of fusing units, but lack of knowledge never stopped me before... lol
I pulled the fuser, and popped off a few of the covers, just enough to get a decent look at the rollers. They looked okay, as best as I can tell (not sure what a 'healthy' roller should look like), but I noticed a little of what I'll call debris on the rollers and falling out of the unit if I turned it over and gently shook. It almost looked like...ash? It was similar in size to very coarse black pepper, but more of a flaky shape, dark gray or black mostly, and sorta 'crunchy' in texture.
I blew it all off with canned air and oiled the bearings as best as I could without tearing apart the assembly too far, since I had no confidence of getting it back in place tonight. Besides, these appear to be sealed bearings, no?
Anyway, I put everything back together, and it's definitely much quieter. I still hear the knocking noise now and then, but it's easy to ignore for now. ;)
I think I'll keep an eye out for a decent rebuild kit and try my hand on that one of these days. If I could identify just the bearings, I'd be happy to try just those, but without an actual part number or bearing spec, I'd have to tear the whole thing apart, and at that point I might as well rebuild the unit if the machine will be down waiting for parts anyway.
If anyone finds a reputable kit for the Bizhub 364e (not C364e, I've made that mistake before), I'd appreciate a link. I'm coming up goose eggs on my searches. :rolleyes:
Thanks for the help guys. As always, I'd be totally lost in this machine without your expert guidance!

[REGSIS]

From what you described, your bearing is fallin apart. That's where the dust comes from. In my cases the front one was allways the problem. That were the fusers between 400-500k so never bother to replace the bearing itselt.
Fresh new unit solved the problem.

Replace the bearing or whole unit before the dust makes damage to ITB or drums.

[copyman]

there is an oil roller in the fuser that dries out especially being that old.
try removing it (2 c clips) clean the black roller with scotchbrite and maybe it will take some strain away from the moving parts and a few drops of truflo in the bearings should be more than sufficient ive found.

The 364e doesn't use an oil roller. The faster machines, 554/654/754 all use the oil / cleaning roller setup. You are correct when these fusers make noise it is always the oil / cleaning roller bushings. Also by the time these make noise the cleaning or oil roller shafts are also worn along with bearings and need to replace the rollers as well. (aftermarket available)

[copyman]

So I don't know jack about the insides of fusing units, but lack of knowledge never stopped me before... lol
I pulled the fuser, and popped off a few of the covers, just enough to get a decent look at the rollers. They looked okay, as best as I can tell (not sure what a 'healthy' roller should look like), but I noticed a little of what I'll call debris on the rollers and falling out of the unit if I turned it over and gently shook. It almost looked like...ash? It was similar in size to very coarse black pepper, but more of a flaky shape, dark gray or black mostly, and sorta 'crunchy' in texture.
I blew it all off with canned air and oiled the bearings as best as I could without tearing apart the assembly too far, since I had no confidence of getting it back in place tonight. Besides, these appear to be sealed bearings, no?
Anyway, I put everything back together, and it's definitely much quieter. I still hear the knocking noise now and then, but it's easy to ignore for now. ;)
I think I'll keep an eye out for a decent rebuild kit and try my hand on that one of these days. If I could identify just the bearings, I'd be happy to try just those, but without an actual part number or bearing spec, I'd have to tear the whole thing apart, and at that point I might as well rebuild the unit if the machine will be down waiting for parts anyway.
If anyone finds a reputable kit for the Bizhub 364e (not C364e, I've made that mistake before), I'd appreciate a link. I'm coming up goose eggs on my searches. :rolleyes:
Thanks for the help guys. As always, I'd be totally lost in this machine without your expert guidance!

Again all the parts to rebuild fuser are on Copylite website. Just use the "C"364 fuser parts.

With under 300k you can get by with the bearings. Like I posted previously you do not need to disassemble the whole fuser to replace bearings. If you let the bearings go they will continue to eat away at the roller shafts then you will have to disassemble and replace the rollers. ANY good tech should be able to replace the bearings in under 30 mins. 2 black side covers and metal plates to access the bearings.

By the way fusers make that noise either from high page count but more often from age. Don't forget that fuser is constantly moving to prevent flat spots at idle until it goes to sleep.

[Elmojo]

From what you described, your bearing is fallin apart. That's where the dust comes from. In my cases the front one was allways the problem. That were the fusers between 400-500k so never bother to replace the bearing itselt.

That makes sense, except that my fuser is less than half life by clicks. It also feels pretty smooth when manually rotated, but I don't know if it's something I'd feel or not.
I'd love to try replacing just the bearings first, if I could confirm which ones I need to order.
Anyone know how to find out without tearing apart the whole fuser assembly? Pretty please? :p

[Elmojo]

Again all the parts to rebuild fuser are on Copylite website. Just use the "C"364 fuser parts.

Ah, so the "C" parts are the same? That, I can do!
Appears to be this bearing (https://www.copylite.com/Catalog/ProductDetail?productNo=BRB754&manufacturer=Konica%20Minolta), right?
Huh, now I see the 364e included in the list of compatible models, cool.
I wonder why it didn't show up when I searched before. Oh well. :p

EDIT: So it looks like I'm not going to be able to register at Copylite, since I'm just a freelance tech, not an actual dealer. Does anyone know another place I can find those bearings? I've looked round online for the 688Z bearings, but I'm not seeing the ones with the notched flange.

EDIT2: I did find these on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Bearing-8mmx16mmx5mm-Shielded-Bearings/dp/B0836YPWNJ), but I'm not sure if the flange dimensions are correct, or if the fact that they don't have the notch is critical. Thoughts?

[copyman]

Awesome! :cool:
So the 'belt pressure roller' you mention, is that what they call the lower roller on most sites? I could look that up in the SM, but I'm FAR too lazy for all that. :rolleyes:
I'm checking Copylite, and I don't see my exact model, but would it be this one maybe (https://www.copylite.com/Catalog/ProductDetail?productNo=50GA53590&manufacturer=Konica%20Minolta)?


This is the belt pressure roller: Copylite - Aftermarket, Compatible, and OEM Copier Supplies and Products (https://www.copylite.com/Catalog/ProductDetail?productNo=BPR364&manufacturer=Konica%20Minolta)

Also I've seen the LFR shafts wear. The LFR also uses the same bearings.

Just showing you what the belt pressure roller look likes. Like I posted you should only need the bearings

[copyman]

Ah, so the "C" parts are the same? That, I can do!
Appears to be this bearing (https://www.copylite.com/Catalog/ProductDetail?productNo=BRB754&manufacturer=Konica%20Minolta), right?
Huh, now I see the 364e included in the list of compatible models, cool.
I wonder why it didn't show up when I searched before. Oh well. :p

EDIT: So it looks like I'm not going to be able to register at Copylite, since I'm just a freelance tech, not an actual dealer. Does anyone know another place I can find those bearings? I've looked round online for the 688Z bearings, but I'm not seeing the ones with the notched flange.

Yes they are the correct bearings. Not sure why copylite doesn't show the same parts for the B&W models. They are same "exact" fusers!
Yes as long as you are a business with a business name you can buy from copylite. If you have any issues PM me. I will put you in touch with my copylite rep.

I would get 4 bearing, replace the 2 belt pressure roller bearings & 2 LFR bearings while you have it apart. The noise will be gone for good!

[Elmojo]

Yes they are the correct bearings. Not sure why copylite doesn't show the same parts for the B&W models. They are same "exact" fusers!
Yes as long as you are a business with a business name you can buy from copylite. If you have any issues PM me. I will put you in touch with my copylite rep.

I would get 4 bearing, replace the 2 belt pressure roller bearings & 2 LFR bearings while you have it apart. The noise will be gone for good!

Awesome, thanks. I'm waiting to hear back from Copylite about approving my registration. If they give me any lip, I may get in touch with you. ;)

Thanks for the info from everyone! I'm pretty sure I can do this now.
I had the side covers off last night, and I actually found a really decent YT video from a Chinese aftermarket company that shows the disassembly steps for a similar unit, so that's nice to have for a reference.

I'm sure all you pros know this, but in case any newbs like me stumble across this in the future, you can skip the steps in the Svc manual about removing the door stops. The fusing unit comes out just fine with those in place if you're careful.
Anything to save a few minutes, and have a couple less parts to lose, eh? :o

[allan]

you local fastener shop should have those bearings for a lot cheaper.

[Elmojo]

you local fastener shop should have those bearings for a lot cheaper.

I would love to buy them locally, I just can't seem to get a positive ID on the exact bearing I need. I know it's a 688Z, but most of the ones I find aren't flanged, which this application seems to require. I also notice that the ones sold by Copylite have a notch in the flange. I haven't had the fuser torn down to that point, so I can't say if that notch is required or not, but I assume it is.
If you have a particular link or item number or something that would help me ID the exact bearing required, I'd be very grateful.

[DK-tech]

Well, the title says most of it.
This video (https://youtu.be/ndbhYOiz7tE) will hopefully explain it better than I could try to describe.
The video quality is intentionally horrible, since I was just trying to capture the sound.
It's not super loud, so you might have to turn up your volume a bit.
Anyone recognize that sound?
Please tell me it's not something expensive. :)
The machine seems to be running perfectly, it just makes that really annoying noise until it times out and does to sleep.

Speaking of sleep... where the heck is that setting? I recall seeing it during my initial setup, but I can't seem to find the the place to edit the sleep time-out any more. I'd like to shorten it, since I don't print or copy all that often during the day.

Thanks!
-E

The bearings in the fuser goes bad and then makes that clicking sound. Change the fuser.

[allan]

I would love to buy them locally, I just can't seem to get a positive ID on the exact bearing I need. I know it's a 688Z, but most of the ones I find aren't flanged, which this application seems to require. I also notice that the ones sold by Copylite have a notch in the flange. I haven't had the fuser torn down to that point, so I can't say if that notch is required or not, but I assume it is.
If you have a particular link or item number or something that would help me ID the exact bearing required, I'd be very grateful.


There is a groove in the bearing. The flange is a snap ring that gets snapped into the groove. The gap does not serve a purpose.

[Elmojo]

There is a groove in the bearing. The flange is a snap ring that gets snapped into the groove. The gap does not serve a purpose.

Ok, now I'm really confused. :confused:
I certainly don't mean to disagree with the voice of wisdom, since I know you've done a ton of these, but the image of the bearings on the Copylite site (see below) doesn't appear to show a snap ring.
At least, I've never seen one with no holes for the pliers. How would you remove the ring?
Also, I've found that 688Z bearing elsewhere (https://smile.amazon.com/Higomall-Bearing-Double-Shielded-Bearings/dp/B08MY3SQRX), and none of them (https://smile.amazon.com/uxcell-688-2RS-Bearing-8x16x5mm-Bearings/dp/B07TV9V3ZZ) seem to have a groove for a snap ring.
All this makes me think it's not such a common bearing, and I need to find that specific part, but I can't get Copylite to return my call, so I'm kinda stuck. :/
If I'm off base here, PLEASE correct me.
48922

[Samanator]

I’m just going to throw this out there for some to think about in regard to fusers prematurely going out.


Over the last maybe 15 years, I have worked for a few different companies and on different manufactures machines. I have noticed on just about all the machines I encounter with prematurely fuser failure have low power and sleep settings were always maxed out. That max setting is usually 240 minutes on just about all machines I have encounter.


IMHO that means if the last person touched the machine just before closing, the machine just sat there and baked for the next four hours before going into some kind of shut down. I think even with magnetic induction the machine wants to keep the roller or belt at a certain temp. Also, the machine is going to be constantly turning the fuser over that period of time. Even if it’s not heating it, it's cycling, it’s moving for no real reason at all. That can’t be good.


I have always set the machines under my care to 60 minuet sleep / 90 minute low power or 90/120 and never had a customer complain that the machine turns off all the time. I have a lot less fuser problems than some I talk with. The main exception is the early Kyocera TA xxx2 series fusers that to me were junk. To me, Konica makes one of the best fusers out there. When I worked for a Konica dealer was when I really noticed prematurely fuser failure on machines set to a 240-minuet shutdown time.


Granted, this is my opinion and maybe some food for thought.

[copyman]

I’m just going to throw this out there for some to think about in regard to fusers prematurely going out.


Over the last maybe 15 years, I have worked for a few different companies and on different manufactures machines. I have noticed on just about all the machines I encounter with prematurely fuser failure have low power and sleep settings were always maxed out. That max setting is usually 240 minutes on just about all machines I have encounter.


IMHO that means if the last person touched the machine just before closing, the machine just sat there and baked for the next four hours before going into some kind of shut down. I think even with magnetic induction the machine wants to keep the roller or belt at a certain temp. Also, the machine is going to be constantly turning the fuser over that period of time. Even if it’s not heating it, it's cycling, it’s moving for no real reason at all. That can’t be good.


I have always set the machines under my care to 60 minuet sleep / 90 minute low power or 90/120 and never had a customer complain that the machine turns off all the time. I have a lot less fuser problems than some I talk with. The main exception is the early Kyocera TA xxx2 series fusers that to me were junk. To me, Konica makes one of the best fusers out there. When I worked for a Konica dealer was when I really noticed prematurely fuser failure on machines set to a 240-minuet shutdown time.


Granted, this is my opinion and maybe some food for thought.

Good points and make sense. The newer models including the model in this post sleep mode max is 60 mins. Think last 240 min model was the C220 series.

Problem is there were issues with the "4" series coming out of sleep mode so I have all the "4" series sleep modes turned off. It goes into power save at the Max 60 mins but never sleep. With this setting haven't noticed any fusers crapping out early but all will eventually get the noise.

[tsbservice]

I’m just going to throw this out there for some to think about in regard to fusers prematurely going out.


Over the last maybe 15 years, I have worked for a few different companies and on different manufactures machines. I have noticed on just about all the machines I encounter with prematurely fuser failure have low power and sleep settings were always maxed out. That max setting is usually 240 minutes on just about all machines I have encounter.


IMHO that means if the last person touched the machine just before closing, the machine just sat there and baked for the next four hours before going into some kind of shut down. I think even with magnetic induction the machine wants to keep the roller or belt at a certain temp. Also, the machine is going to be constantly turning the fuser over that period of time. Even if it’s not heating it, it's cycling, it’s moving for no real reason at all. That can’t be good.


I have always set the machines under my care to 60 minuet sleep / 90 minute low power or 90/120 and never had a customer complain that the machine turns off all the time. I have a lot less fuser problems than some I talk with. The main exception is the early Kyocera TA xxx2 series fusers that to me were junk. To me, Konica makes one of the best fusers out there. When I worked for a Konica dealer was when I really noticed prematurely fuser failure on machines set to a 240-minuet shutdown time.


Granted, this is my opinion and maybe some food for thought.

Your opinions are appreciated here I believe by many.

In that case you're completely right I set mine machines to enter sleep/low power even at 15-20 minutes. That said this is not only one single cause for fusers go out prematurely.
Yes this is main reason but there are few others.

Namely
- stock(very important)
- temperature/humidity/dust in room
- how they print(1000*1 isn't equal 1000 you know)
- other parts life(i.e. failed paper dust remover can contribute to this)
- coverage(low is better), etc.

Some times ago on Toshiba I tend to lower fuser temp by 5-10 degrees and leave it that for month or two at client to see how it goes never had problems with unfused toner on normal media and temperature/humidity. Now with most long life KonMin fusers it's hard to analyze/test if lowering fuser temperature will prolong fusers life but I suspect the same outcome.

[allan]

Ok, now I'm really confused. :confused:
I certainly don't mean to disagree with the voice of wisdom, since I know you've done a ton of these, but the image of the bearings on the Copylite site (see below) doesn't appear to show a snap ring.
At least, I've never seen one with no holes for the pliers. How would you remove the ring?
Also, I've found that 688Z bearing elsewhere (https://smile.amazon.com/Higomall-Bearing-Double-Shielded-Bearings/dp/B08MY3SQRX), and none of them (https://smile.amazon.com/uxcell-688-2RS-Bearing-8x16x5mm-Bearings/dp/B07TV9V3ZZ) seem to have a groove for a snap ring.
All this makes me think it's not such a common bearing, and I need to find that specific part, but I can't get Copylite to return my call, so I'm kinda stuck. :/
If I'm off base here, PLEASE correct me.
48922

You can remove the flange. Screwdriver(s) The gap in the ring gives it away.
Yes you need that exact one. The flange is offset from the edge. Others are flush with it.
They are super common on the machines.

[Samanator]

Oh yeah, I forgot to add;


Know why that machine is clicking?

It doesn't know the lyrics but likes the rhythm.....:cool:

[Elmojo]

You can remove the flange. Screwdriver(s) The gap in the ring gives it away.
Yes you need that exact one. The flange is offset from the edge. Others are flush with it.
They are super common on the machines.

A snap ring designed to be removed with a *gasp* screwdriver?! Wow, Japanese precision at its best! :p
Yeah.... I'm gonna have a hard time finding this bearing. I can tell already....

I've called Copylite twice about setting up an account, and Rudy called me back once, but I think we're playing phone tag now.
I just wish I could find a couple of these locally, or even on eBay or Amazon or whatever. I just don't know what specs to look for.
Searching for "Grooved 688z bearing" comes up with mostly nothing useful.

[copyman]

A snap ring designed to be removed with a *gasp* screwdriver?! Wow, Japanese precision at its best! :p
Yeah.... I'm gonna have a hard time finding this bearing. I can tell already....

I've called Copylite twice about setting up an account, and Rudy called me back once, but I think we're playing phone tag now.
I just wish I could find a couple of these locally, or even on eBay or Amazon or whatever. I just don't know what specs to look for.
Searching for "Grooved 688z bearing" comes up with mostly nothing useful.

I think you are making a big deal out of something really simple. This bearing is used on many different models. Like I posted there are several of these bearings used in the FS-534 finishers and others. PM me and I will sell you 2 NEW bearings. $20 + shipping with paypal, venmo or zelle and be done with it!

[Elmojo]

I agree that it would be simple, if I worked on these machines every day and had access to broken parts from which to scavenge bearings.
Unfortunately, I have to source everything new, so it's a real challenge for me, since KM doesn't seem to list that as a separate part #.

I appreciate the offer for the new bearings. I may very well do that.
I wasn't expecting them to be so expensive, but then again I haven't seen any pricing from Copylite either, so I guess I don't really know what I should be expecting. :o

[copyman]

I agree that it would be simple, if I worked on these machines every day and had access to broken parts from which to scavenge bearings.
Unfortunately, I have to source everything new, so it's a real challenge for me, since KM doesn't seem to list that as a separate part #.

I appreciate the offer for the new bearings. I may very well do that.
I wasn't expecting them to be so expensive, but then again I haven't seen any pricing from Copylite either, so I guess I don't really know what I should be expecting. :o

I meant $20 shipped. Think Copylite price is $15.95 for 2 bearings + shipping should be around $20.

[Elmojo]

I meant $20 shipped.

Werd. lol
That sounds good. Let me get back to you on that. I'm pretty sure I'll probably take you up on it.

[copyman]

It never fails! One day after posting about the infamous fuser noise at idle I got 2 service calls for same thing, one C224e, C654e. Next day a C754e. On big machines, one had bushing wore on brush roller and frame cut a nice groove into shaft. The other had the cleaning roller bearing disintegrate and was metal to metal. On both machines I replaced cleaning & brush rollers, all bushing & bearings. One side note there is a new style bushing that goes into cleaning roller bearing. These seem to last longer. Also as been discussed here some techs remove the cleaning rollers from the C654/754 machines. I have done it one time on a C654 because customer didn't run 2 sided. Most of my customers with the production models run 2 sided so best to leave cleaning rollers in.

The C224e was the usual suspect, bearing was worn on LFR. Low volume machine. My theory is the grease dries out inside bearing as early as 3 years but usually happens after 4+ years on low volume machines. Most fusers have under 200k. Another thing I notice is the customers running high volume on these 22 ppm machines may never make the noise, unless of course you go way beyond rated life and eventually the bearings just break down from overuse!

[Gift]

You can use WD40 PTFE Specialist to lubricate the bearings. Might work or not, depends on how the overall condition of the fuser looks like. Ususally this knocking sounds comes from a lack of lubrication between the fuser roller and it's ball bearing. Best solution is removing the bearings and apply new temperature-resisant grease.

[Elmojo]

You can use WD40 PTFE Specialist to lubricate the bearings. Might work or not, depends on how the overall condition of the fuser looks like. Ususally this knocking sounds comes from a lack of lubrication between the fuser roller and it's ball bearing. Best solution is removing the bearings and apply new temperature-resisant grease.

Aren't these sealed bearings? How would you re-lube them?

[Synthohol]

When the bearings are hot a couple drops of truflo oil seeps in and gives extra life. At least in my experience. Been using that or fuser oil for 20+ years for bearing creaking.

[Gift]

Aren't these sealed bearings? How would you re-lube them?

For loud knocking noises it's usually not a lack of lubrication within the bearing but between the contact surface of the bearings inner ring and the pressure/heating-roller it sits on. Materials expands/shrings during heat up + cool down phases causing the materials to slip a little and that can cause sounds like that in case there's not sufficiant lubrication.

[Elmojo]

For loud knocking noises...

I wouldn't say it's all that loud. If I don't have any music on, and my server is shut down, I can hear it fairly easily across the office. Otherwise, I have to really be listening for it.
It's a cross between a tick and a knock, in terms of sound profile.
I'm pretty sure the others are correct, and I just need to bite the $20 bullet an buy a set of bearings from copyman. I'm just cheap, and it bugs me that I should be able to buy these locally, if I could just find them. :)

[tsbservice]

I wouldn't say it's all that loud. If I don't have any music on, and my server is shut down, I can hear it fairly easily across the office. Otherwise, I have to really be listening for it.
It's a cross between a tick and a knock, in terms of sound profile.
I'm pretty sure the others are correct, and I just need to bite the $20 bullet an buy a set of bearings from copyman. I'm just cheap, and it bugs me that I should be able to buy these locally, if I could just find them. :)

5 pages and you still wandering :cool:

[Elmojo]

5 pages and you still wandering :cool:

To be fair, most of these 5 pages aren't me. :p

[copyman]

Many of the posts are mine trying to convince someone how to save $500 for a new fuser. I've done everything I can except put the bearings in myself. Not sure how I ended up wasting this much time on one thread. Oh well this is where it ends for me. I won't even open this thread again. When a thread is dead it's dead!

[Elmojo]

Whoa there Tex! :(
I'm very appreciative of your help, and I'm intending to take you up on your kind offer of a set of bearings, I just have other things on my plate at the moment that are more urgent than fixing this copier.
I'm sorry the thread has run so long, but I only wanted to fully understand the issue (which took about 2 pages) and exhaust local/online options for obtaining the bearings (which took maybe 4 comments?) before I jumping into the solution. I would have felt awful silly if I had bought a set of bearings from you or Copylite or wherever, and then the next day someone said "you know they sell those at Lowes, right?". Just trying to be diligent. :cool:

[Gift]

I wouldn't say it's all that loud. If I don't have any music on, and my server is shut down, I can hear it fairly easily across the office. Otherwise, I have to really be listening for it.
It's a cross between a tick and a knock, in terms of sound profile.
I'm pretty sure the others are correct, and I just need to bite the $20 bullet an buy a set of bearings from copyman. I'm just cheap, and it bugs me that I should be able to buy these locally, if I could just find them. :)

I'd also swap the bearing because you'll have to remove them anyways for lubricating the pressure roller axis. Haven't bought any for km but these are usually some generic stuff so not really hard to get. If you take a close look you'll probably notice some engraving on the bearing the rest is up to google^^

[ezzysi]

FYI.. A00V240600 is the KM part number for the bearings :)