KonicaMinolta DI5510

[pjdbm]

KonicaMinolta DI5510 Machine has 2.5mil on it, he is a printing guy.

He called in for grainy copies and toner spill on the transport section t/s unit.

I go there and it appears to be overtoned, he had about 300 on the developer so I replaced the developer and reset the dev. counter and ran the "cartridge intall" in service mode. slapped the machine back together and copies were perfect.

He did 10,000 copies and the problem came back.

what would you guys do now?????

[brent]

someone just put a good scenario here on the board less than a week ago. go in an change your soft switches. that will help. look on the board here.

[brent]

here is the thread. I will try to paste it below


DI5510 toner spill (http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/20421-di5510-toner-spill.html)

[pjdbm]

I saw that thanks but he is a print shop, I had him pull the bottle for a bit but he complained already he was losing density.

[brent]

from what I am seeing with my 5510s out there. just every once in a while they will do that. you are right to change the developer. because the most I can get out of the developer on my machines is right at 250k tops. there is a fine line with good density. then to overtoning. I am lucky that I don't have any in print shops. I just can't get mine to make a decent really dark copy without overtoning and spilling toner..

brent

[fixthecopier]

I have also had these same kind of issues. How old is the grid? Changing out the charge may help.

[langelot]

Try this...
This will alleviate the problem quite a bit. You may have to clean the drumcarriage maybe once or twice between PM cycles (250k).

Change dip-switch 5-1 to a 1
Change dip-switch 23-3 to a 1

this will lighten you toner density threshold in the developer unit - maybe also make your laser output higher to attract more toner to the drum.

If still having issues, also change 5-0 to a 1 and 23-2 also to 1 along with the other dipswitches mentioned above. This will bring it to the lightest toner density threshold - I would not reccomend this for a print shop type environment or where heavy graphics/halftones are required.

Also, clean you charge corona wire - my favorite a small square of 3M Scotch Bright between you needle nose pliers - I usually find that a clean wire is much, much more important than having a clean grid. Also make sure you run all the drum pec. adjustments not just the Cartidge Set Mode.

And clean out the recycling section under the cleaning blade and the recycling pipe - alot of paper dust will accumulate and get recycled back into the developer unit which will ultimately throw off the charges when the machine does its adjustments. Every call to this machines will have me vaccuming it out - it makes a big difference.

Good luck,

Langelot
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[pjdbm]

well... a re cap

Did another developer change and did all these machine calibrations as suggested in the post and after 10k I had to go back for grainy/background copies.

I am thinking this has to be a bias issue or connection issue??? I dont know, been back to this guy five times already and I am losing my shirt.

I go there and clean the drum unit up and clean all coronas and the machine does well for a while then out of no where the grainy/background copies appear.

I have even pulled the toner bottle to stop the addition of toner and it still does this. Any suggestions????:(

[Speedy]

I have had this problem and usually it is a bias problem on the developer unit. Make sure you have good contact on the front and rear of the developer unit. You can ohm it with a meter to the contact on the rear and to the mag roller you should have 20 ohms or less. If not I use desoldering wick at the rear contact going over the mag roller shaft and down to the screws that hold the plate.

[langelot]

There is a bias pin that gets seated on the toner guide roller (which is underneath the cleaning blade) - that pin is right by the recycling auger clutch and should be moved manually. If you forgot to move that back in place, that would definitely cause a problem.

Let us know how it all turns out,

[fixthecopier]

I was going through the same thing on a 5510. I think you are on the right track with bias. I swapped out the charge with a new one and the problem would come back. Last time I fought it I swapped out the drum carriage and made sure I cleaned every contact point I could find between the carriage and the body of the machine. I think that cured it. I did not go back for that problem, but pulled the machine later for another issue.

[pjdbm]

Thanks for all your feedback, this machine has me nuts. Been back to this guy five times already and we are still at the starting line.

I did clean contacts while the units were out
.Its part of the job I do when servicing a section but will take another look.

I cheated the doors and watched the charge unit in low light, the red lamp comes on and the charge wire is not arcing so...

[brent]

you gotta do what you have to do sometimes. I would take another deveoper unit and do a swap. it can't hurt. I had to swap one one time and it worked. have you ever considered replacing the toner control sensor board in the drum unit? I don't know if you are getting any codes pertaining to that. most people frown on swapping out these dv or drum units. but the fact of the matter is you need to isolate where this problem is coming from. I feel your pain on this..

brent

[Si@danwood]

Personally i would "bite the bullet" and pm the machine including replacing the drum(and developer again) then running set up via the manual word for word(mainly for your own peace of mind than anything else).Also be aware of the age of the developer unit! I know on the 1050 i had issues similiar around the 2.5/3 mil mark in the past...good luck Si



P.s. please let us know the outcome

[mitchl]

I just skimmed through this thread and its the same old same old as far as this engine goes. If you do a search there is a thread where a tech from Wis. lays out a whole procedure to alleviate some common problems as far as bias goes and drum grounding. Do a search in the KM section for DI650 toner dumping and that should get you there.......... God I hate these machines but I finally got a tech who really knows that engine well and mine are running better than they ever have. Have you replaced the drum and reset the counter, I did see you put a fresh shot of DV in but they normally should be replaced together if they both had 300k clicks. I'll get the tech to read over this and see what he thinks.

[brent]

the last time I put in a oem drum and the cleaning blade along with oem developer. and it is really doing good this time. I don't know if there is a big difference with an oem to an aftermarket drum. but this made a huge difference. are you using aftermarket or oem?

brent

[mitchl]

the last time I put in a oem drum and the cleaning blade along with oem developer. and it is really doing good this time. I don't know if there is a big difference with an oem to an aftermarket drum. but this made a huge difference. are you using aftermarket or oem?

brent

The OEM drums work worlds better than any after market stuff. Reason being this machine creates and reads a patch off the drum for density reasons which in turn determines if toner needs to be added to the DV so if the density patch isnt right even though the TCR is proper the machine heads off in the wrong direction normally adding toner like its going out of style.............. Keep in mind it is vitally important to reset that drum counter to zero when its replaced, if it isnt reset the machine will maintain the old drums potential setting which should be quite a bit higher due to drum deterioration......... Yes these machines are a real pain in the ass if not tickled properly as we have learned over years. Again I'll ask my tech Pat to read the post and write up a little dissertation on this toner spewing monster.......... Another thing I just thought of even though it was on a BH 600 and a long shot, there is a soft switch on that machine that shuts off the automatic toner density system and adds toner every copy regardless if it needs it or not. We had that 600 driving us up the wall till we figured out that some brain surgeon that worked on it before us decided it would be a good idea to bypass the automatic system and turn on that soft switch.:mad:

[pjdbm]

non oem drum was replace with oem developer and all counters were cleared and adjustments were performed.

Developer was replaced a second time with all additional adjustments as suggested in the lengthy informative post here.

Problem still exist, I had the customer pull the toner bottle and run it like that, it will run good for 1k or 2k then the background appears even with the bottle out.

I think I have a bias problem here as mentioned.Maybe a new developer unit itself.


I will let you know one way or another

[brent]

you see that is why this site is so cool. we really can't just open a ticket with minolta and discuss oem and non oem parts. and actually konica minolta has been so busy that it is really hard to open a ticket and get a same day response. usually 2 or 3. who ever thought of this site ought to be commended because it is a great source of information. and quick tips to get our machines fixed. thanks


brent

[mitchl]

Go find the post i mentioned, it will show you how to rig a spring around the mag roller shaft and the bias pin so you dont lose continuity and a good portion of the bias.......... trust me it works and gives you 100% continuity across the mag roller. Here I found it fo ya!
http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/konica-minolta/3772-konica-7165-7155-developer-dumping-solution.html#post20323


http://www.copytechnet.com/forums/images/icons/icon14.gif Konica 7165/7155 Developer Dumping Solution
The Konica 7165/7155 models are known for developer dumping, grainy copies (using developer to create image) which causes premature fuser roller wear and light or washed out CQ which is worse on 2nd side. Solution:....... (This must be followed exactly as stated otherwise you will not realize a fix). 1 Verify PM, drum and developer counters are correct and reset after replacement (do not extend PM count or this will NOT work). 2. It's best to start with a fresh FULL PM, but if not, check clean and/or replace as neccessary the; charge wire, grid, charge cleaners, toner guide roller, and blade. 3.Check Drum-to-ground resistance. Spin drum in 47 mode 4-1-*-1-start. Measure from drum shaft screw to frame. Should be UNDER 80 ohms. If above, install lamp pressure plate (p/n 55FA53170). Attach to one of the 3 available near-by screws on the front of the drum carriage so that the plate touches and rides along the inner drum bearing race. re-measure. Should be less than 20 ohms now. 4. Make certain that Drum voltage is set correctly (see service manual) 5. Remove developer unit and set on level surface. Remove top cover. Set meter to lowest ohms scale. Hold one lead against set screw for doctor blade. Hold other lead against outer edge of mag roller where you can see the alluminum. Spin roller and read (may need help with this part or use wire leads with clips). Should read LESS than 20 ohms at all times during test. This is the most critical part and the MAIN cause of entire problem. If this is failing, nothing esle told here will work untill this is repaired. Options (a) replace developer bearing, remeasure and if new one is below 20 ohms, you're okay (careful, I have seen many new ones read bad) (b) Add modification to mag roller sleeve. (this is what my service dept. does and EVERY one of our 30 plus machines run clean with excellent CQ). We use p/n 26NA45140 (spring, reg) and connect both ends to the bias pin that protrudes from the back side of of the Dev unit (this is where it gets it's bias connection from the main body) and stretch it over the mag roller shaft giving the mag roller %100 continuity. This completly eliminates the mag roller bearing for bias transfer. NOTES; slightly stretch the spring before attaching. This will lessen the "lathe" effect on the mag roller. AND use an oil on the shaft (synthetic works great here) where the spring will be touching to eliminate any squeeks or squeels. Re-install and Run all drum peculiarity adjustment by the book. These procedures were created by our KMBS DSM and my team. We have %100 success with this procedure. There can be many variations to your solution, but remember all of the steps are critical to correcting this problem. Skip steps and you wont see improvement, guaranteed. No bias to mag roller = overtoning, misting, dumping, gritty copies and poor CQ. If anyone would like the procedure sheet, please request it at randolphj@martingroup.com. Happy fixing.:)


HAVE FUN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[pepper38_cnd]

When was the drum bearing last replaced? and shine the piece that goes through the bearing to the shaft up real nice with scotchbrite or emery cloth.