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eurosears
02-07-2010, 07:36 AM
I recently acquired a Minolta 7145 copier. When I first turned it on the copier after each page that ran through the copier would jam (J11, J12, J13, etc). Each tray and the bypass was behaving same way. After cleaning the paper tray gear systems, removing and checking the drum and developer now it appears that I have short somewhere and my Paper Feed Clutch/Motor (26NA82020) doesn't get enough voltage. It gets about 3V instead of 24V. Did anyone have ever had a problem like this, and if so how did you deal with it? Once you found the short did you have to replace the CB board or any other components?

copytechman
02-07-2010, 02:54 PM
That depends on what's taking out the cb. Typically a pinched/shorted to frame wire will do that pretty consistently. The newer series machine (bh420/500) had an issue where if the wrong screw was reinstalled in the toner solenoid it would take out the cb cuz it shorted the solenoid to frame (via a cut coil wire).. could be something like that since you stated you had the drive system apart.. i'd check your wiring..

Regards!
A.

eurosears
02-07-2010, 10:41 PM
I checked the voltage on the cable that leads to Loop Clutch (MC2) and it was 20V when the printer was idle and went to 24V when the printer wanted to take paper from the tray. At 24V the clutch engaged and the white gear was driving the clutch shaft which indicates to me everything is fine (I did this while holding the clutch in my hand). I also checked the gear in the copier that drives the white gear on the MC2 clutch. It started working when the copier was trying to pull paper from the tray.

I put the clutch back and observed that when the copier was trying to pull paper the paper tray gear assembly slightly moved and the jam occurred. So it looks like the clutch is ok.

I don't know whats wrong. All my trays, including the bypass, jam without even feeding the paper into the system (J11, J12, J13, etc). Could there be a problem with the drum? Any suggestions where I should concentrate my search?

There was a situation once where after putting all the paper tray assembly gears back together and running the copier I was able to run 5 copies without a problem before the printer started jamming again.

I also used the drum code in menu 47 to check if the drum is rotating and it was. It did remove the drum and the developer before (when I had a different jamming problem) to clean them. After putting them back in the drum/developer doesn't print any pictures(this is before the most recent jamming problem) and I have to do L detect each time I start the printer or get a jam - I know I will have to change the developer. Any suggestions?

copytechman
02-08-2010, 03:14 AM
You may have a failed motor (or dev coupling) thats causing a mis code.... I've seen these throw jam codes before motor failure codes... that is to say it seems to time out on a jam before noticing that a/the motor isnt rotating.. Just a thought... mark your dev, put a void in the mag brush (with your finger or something to make a visible gap), run the ldetect or make a copy, pull the dev unit.. did it rotate? Could be a failed icp on a the cb but you said you checked them out.

Regards!
A.

eurosears
02-08-2010, 05:10 AM
The dev was not the problem. Checked it like you suggested and it does move. However, I found one problem already the by pass paper feed system is not operating properly? Possibly a gear or two are bad. So I disconnected the white gear that is driven by the paper feed system and that drives the bypass tray and the papers started coming into and out of the printer from tray 1 :)
The timing is all screwed up, however. If I make one copy the page gets stuck before the drum. If I make 10 pages, something like 10 come out with 2 being stuck at point 6-7 and point 3 or so (means two pages are in the system while the cycle of 10 has completed). Paper from tray two still gets stuck near the tray and can't pass through the system without a jam no matter what I do.
A person told me that the copier was dropped or hit while carrying it so this could explain the bypass tray problem. However, what to do about the paper feed timing. Any ideas?

copytechman
02-08-2010, 02:39 PM
Thats's a tough one, timing issue in general could be failing/failed/sticky clutches or poor paper drive motor, have seen the primary paper supply clutch slip as well. I'd probably start by cleaning/replacing clutches if in general they are working but not perfectly... have also seen worn tray tires cause lots of issues too..

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-09-2010, 06:50 AM
Hey copytech I got that problem fixed but now I have another question. Is it true that you have to use non-magnetic screws to secure the TDS sensor to the developing unit? Is so, what is the part number for these screws? Thank you.

copytechman
03-09-2010, 02:06 PM
Well thats a good question, i've not actually heard of that before and honestly never used anything other than a standard screw to attach to the dv box, according to my parts catalog it appears to be a standard screw, plastic type, it's used all over the place in the machine... fuser, dv, charger etc etc. I don't think its an aluminum screw based on my experience.

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-09-2010, 07:21 PM
Well thats a good question, i've not actually heard of that before and honestly never used anything other than a standard screw to attach to the dv box, according to my parts catalog it appears to be a standard screw, plastic type, it's used all over the place in the machine... fuser, dv, charger etc etc. I don't think its an aluminum screw based on my experience.

Regards!
A.

Hmmm, I had metal ones (regular steel), I wonder where I can get two plastic screws like that. Or maybe do you have two that you could spare? I can't install my new sensor and developer without them :(

copytechman
03-09-2010, 09:19 PM
By plastic screw I'm referring to the thread type not the composition. You know, screws that you'd use to screw into plastic bits as opposed to metal bits. (Plastic screws have a real coarse thread while metal ones have a fine thread). If you've ever had the charger grid off and looked under the black cover that protects the corona wire ends, the end that is screwed down through a silver plate that routes to the hv contact on the back of the machine is a plastic screw, its the same one by my book... they're all over the place.. standard plastic coarse thread screw. Another example is: the screws that hold one the paper trays to it's tray rails is a metal screw. A type of plastic screw would be one of the screws that hold the front of the tray cover onto the trays (bigger diameter tho).

Regards.
A.

Seriously you should be able to find these all over the place.. old copiers probably have oodles... basically used to hold 2 plastic bits together or a metal bit onto a plastic bit.. etc etc.

eurosears
03-09-2010, 09:37 PM
So basically you have regular steel or some other metal 6-32 or M3 (or whatever their designation is) screws holding the sensor in place. These screws are attracted by the magnet. Is that correct?
I was just concerned because I have heard that you need to use fully plastic or aluminum screws to attach that sensor (screws that are not attracted by the magnet).

copytechman
03-09-2010, 09:54 PM
To the best of my knowledge it's just a regular screw. (thread for plastic use).

A.

edit: yes attracted to a magnetic screwdriver. I just checked one of my spare dev units just to be sure... it's attracted to my screwdriver.. therefore not aluminum.

edit again: also checked 2 different dev units. (7145 and 7222(related machine)) both types have the same style screw securing the tds sensor. both were magnetically inclined... attracted to my screwdriver and not aluminum.

Hope that helps!
Regards.

eurosears
03-09-2010, 10:17 PM
That helps a great deal. Thank you. I don't have to worry about these screws anymore (they are basically the same screws used in computer cases).
Switching the topic a little, I am also looking for the most recent firmware for IP-431. Do you have it by any chance? I am trying to enable the print option/network printing on my Konica 7145.

pepper38_cnd
03-09-2010, 11:23 PM
The screws are stainless steel and are non-magnetic on some machines they are brass but still non-magnetic. Magnetic screws could cause the dev to be attracted to them an affect the flow of developer around/over the sensor area.

If you lost the original screws it is probably because they didn't stick to your magnetic screwdriver.

eurosears
03-10-2010, 12:04 AM
Well I have a developer for Konica 7145 with screws securing the TDS sensor which are magnetically inclined. However, you said that you also have a developer with such screws and, I presume, that you didn't have a problem with the sensor on that developer because of the magnetically inclined screws.
So I guess it should cause a problem.

copytechman
03-10-2010, 02:32 AM
Pepper is correct there are some cases where a tds sensor (or other screws for that matter) on a dev unit are not magnetic, can be brass or something else... Not too often tho, the top 3 screws on the dev on a bh200/222 series aren't magnetic (a pain) and others are. As for the IP431, no I don't have software for it. I only have IP432's, IP422's, 423's and 424's around here (for those series of boxes anyway).. does the machine go into the print mode when you press the print button on the control panel? Does it say ready to print? Can you print out the test prints from the printer menus?

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-10-2010, 02:48 AM
Going back to the TDS sensor for a minute: Is there a way to test the TDS sensor performance without having the toner installed? I will be getting a new sensor soon and I will replace the old one (cracked), I just want to make sure I will not waste my developer if something goes wrong? I am not worried about the sensors performance really but I am more concerned with the fact that I did a factory reset of the copier recently and I wonder if nothing within the system (after the reset) will prevent normal operation of the L-detect procedure. I will be installing the 26NA88041 sensor instead of the older model 26NA88040 which I had before.

No, the printer menu doesn't work. I can't print anything using the serial, usb and network cable. But my computer does recognize the printer using the serial cable (and possibly USB, can't remember now) and I can open the network page using the copier's IP number on my computer.

copytechman
03-10-2010, 03:12 AM
The network page is built into that machine even without an ip installed.. your sure you have an ip installed right? It goes into a recess on the left hand side rear of the machine.. There's no real way to test the tds sensor itself outside of the the l-detect or running the dev and putting a meter the sensor's output... Just checked... My service book doesn't list the IP431 as the proper controller for your 7145... only an IP432 should work.. At least according to my book. Your sure its an IP431?

A.

eurosears
03-10-2010, 06:20 AM
You are right. I don't have the board. I thought that I had it because I have a network plug (its on the same side as the serial, parallel connection, left side of the copier when you look at its back).
I don't have an IP board in the slot on the right.
Once I install the IP-432 board into that slot should the PRINT and FAX options become available automatically on the copier or do I need to do anything extra (like update the firmware) to turn these options on?

Concerning the TDS sensor. RIght now, when I go into L-detect and do an L-detect procedure my sensor shows me Result 0006, L detection 043
If the sensor would operate correctly the L detection should be somewhere between 055 and 075, is that correct?
I have the error message "Adjust L detect" turned off on the copier, but it does come on even after doing the l detect procedure. That's, I presume, because the sensor is broken.
This is what I am planning to do once I receive the new sensor.
1. Remove the old sensor
2. Clean the developing unit out of the old developer
3. Install the new sensor using magnetized screws :)
4. Add the developer, equally, spread it, etc.
5. Insert the developing unit with the new developer and sensor into the copier
6. Run the copier and go into menu 36
7. Run the L detect procedure
8. Turn off and back on the copier and see what happens
I assume that the copier should automatically enter into the copy mode and no L detect warnings should come on

Is this correct?

pepper38_cnd
03-10-2010, 12:29 PM
If you are getting a 0006 the sensor in the Drum carriage could be dirty or you could have a high voltage problem or your drum may not be turning. There are other things required before L Detect happens if they don't happen you get an almost instant 0006 and L Detect is aborted. I also recall you said this machine was transported laying down a lot of dev may have spilled out of the dev assembly polluting your paper feed section and possibly your HV Board giving you all kinds of problems, not to mention L Detect will abort if there is too little Dev in the Dev unit.

eurosears
03-10-2010, 05:43 PM
(Well last time I cleaned the drum so that shouldn't be a problem. The copies are fine, no problem there either. I replaced the developer last time so the amount is fine.
Could this be a problem with the broken TDS sensor?)

UPDATE: I read substantially about this problem and it seems like most people have it when the sensor above the drum is dirty or the drum has problems spinning. In my case, I am 100% sure I didn't clean that sensor so I am going to do that today and update my post.

So, if I clean that sensor (and presumably that was the problem) what should the value of the result be if I run another L detect WITHOUT replacing the developer?

copytechman
03-11-2010, 01:19 AM
No ip=no print, also fax is a separate option.. once installed the buttons should work.. I'd go ahead with the procedure you've decided to try.... it'll work.. or it won't...

Regards!
A.

Regarding the l-detect w/o dev.... dunno never tried it.... I'd wait till you've got it together properly b4 trying it....
Good Luck!

eurosears
03-11-2010, 04:35 AM
So I took the drum unit out and removed the drum. Now I see that white sensor in the middle and I also noticed a lot of tonner or developer in a collection area at the bottom of the cutting blade.
Can I clean that out?
Also, it says that I need to coat the drum and blade with setting powder. Do I really need to do that? What kind of powder is it?

copytechman
03-11-2010, 04:39 AM
You can but you need a proper toner vacuum for that and if u do you need to be uber careful of that sensor as well.. static sensitive too.. your supposed to use setting powder so when you reinstall the drum, that the blade doesn't basically stick to the drum and flip when the drum rotates (think of it as a kind of um drum lubricant).

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-11-2010, 04:46 AM
Also there was a larger spring that feel out when I was removing the metal cover that keeps the corona in place. It was somewhere on the left side, on the back of that cover, where the two screws secure the cover in place. I see the two other springs of similar size inserted in two holes on the left. Do you have any idea where it goes?

copytechman
03-11-2010, 06:10 AM
I'm not sure which spring that your referring to. There is one spring that sits @ the front of the corona that the cleaner rod goes through (and the rod is secured via a small plastic clip to the corona cleaner itself). That spring wedges between the plastic post and small square (approx 1/2in) metal plate/assy that a twist of the spring can be turned into a little bit. Its right near where the 2 wire connector for the pcl lamp plugs into the front of the drum unit. (the cleaner rod goes right through the center of the spring). Kinda hard to describe.. its not crucial to the operation of the corona unit tho and have seen many without it... can you describe the spring shape and size a little better?

A.

eurosears
03-11-2010, 06:37 AM
The spring is cilindrical throughout most of its length but its diameter starts decreasing towards one end.
Well, I cleaned the sensor on the drum and put everything together (leaving that one spring out). I ran the L detect, ran for like 2.5 minutes and gave me OK. So now the Result is OK and Detection is at 086 (before this value was 046). I turn on the 16-3 switch and don't get "please do L detect" message anymore. So this is fixed.

However, now my prints look bad. I have various areas on the printed pages with large black elongated spots or lines. If I ran 25 or 50 copies these black spots/lines mostly go away but the pages are still somewhat dirty and some lines do stay (even though they are not to wide anymore). However, when I do each copy at a time these lines areas remain. When I turn the copier off and on and go print again I have again a lot of dart spots/lines. What could that be? I cleaned only the sensor and the area just across the cleaning blade, but not the cleaning blade. I think it may have to do with the L detection, which I ran twice (so the copier adds more toner than is necessary)

I should mention, If I make a regular 8.5x11 the lines are parallel to the 8.5 dimension of the paper, from time to time I also see one line parallel to the 11" dimension. The position of these lines changes when I turn off and turn on the printer.

fishleg
03-11-2010, 08:26 AM
The spring you are refering to I believe is the one that puts pressure onto the cleaning blade should be two either end of the metal piece you take out if you want to replace the cleaning blade.

2 screws take the corona off, Take drum out, then if you tip it on its side you should see another two screws either end of the drum just below where you took the corona off. It looks like one big strip of metal on the underside of that is where your mysterious spring sits and that puts pressure onto the blade so if one is missing you would get streaks as your blade is not touching the drum properly. I think they sit under a screw so you should be able to loosen it and put it back in.

That would be my guess thats the only spring on that unit that matches what you are talking about you've been very unlucky as out of the hundreds I have done I have never had it fall out once. You should of definately cleaned out your drum unit though you have been very lucky to have got away with an L-detect with a full drum usually errors out if you dont clean out the drum first plus all that old toner will mix with your new dev.

Good luck.

eurosears
03-11-2010, 09:08 AM
Dear fishleg,

I don't think you are thinking about the same spring. I saw the spring fall out when I was removing the charging unit from the drum assembly. The spring feel out somewhere from the back left side of the charging unit, where the two small springs hold the charging control plate. I am not sure if the spring was on the drum unit or the charging unit. I should mention that I removed all four screws (2 on each side) from the charging unit prior to taking it off so the endings were slightly loose.

Relating to the bad copies, the charging control plate feel off the little springs and I had to reattach it.

Any ideas about the location of this spring and also about the quality problem with my prints?

pepper38_cnd
03-11-2010, 12:36 PM
You do not have to remove any screws in order to remove the Charge Corona, just the cleaning shaft, the spring is at the end the cleaning shaft goes thru it. My recommendation is call a qualified tech!

copytechman
03-12-2010, 02:51 AM
Sounds like a bad/dirty corona wire and the above posters are correct, no screws need to be undone to remove the corona unit... take off the white clip on the cleaner rod, slide it out the front of the drum unit (Out through the spring you describe (sounds like the one I mentioned)) remove spring (if equipped), then push on the small metal tab on the back of the corona casing, its a holder spring/clip that holds the rear of the corona unit in place, lift the rear out first sliding away and up out of the drum unit... then u can turn it over and remove the grid (2 small springs) and clean or (preferably) replace the corona wires.... also not for the faint of heart... I would concur with pepper, it's probably time to call in a tech..

Best Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-12-2010, 04:33 AM
Well I got most of the lines out, I have now only one vertical line (toner collects on the drum before it spins in the area closest to the corona assembly). It almost disappeared when I ran like 200 copies. Usually on the 3rd consequtive copy it is almost invisible. However, if the copying stops for like a minute and I make a copy it is visible again.

However, now I have error 26-4 when the message "auto supply toner came on". I see that the toner bottle and the sleeve in the back are not turning. The machine runs for like 3-4 minutes before it gives me this error. I hear a slight noise in the back like dup, dup, dup,.... Any suggestions?

eurosears
03-12-2010, 08:14 AM
UPDATE: Removed the CB and then the toner supply assembly. Cleaned it outside and inside (so took out most of the toner), cleaned the solenoid, checked the gears and cleaned a few of them too, put everything back together. Turned the copier on. Turned on fine. Did 5 copies of the same page and the auto toner cycle began, this time the toner cartridge was spinning (that's probably because I got almost all the toner out of the toner supply assembly. It worked for 3 minutes and gave me the 26-4 error again :(
What do you guys think I should do next? Please help.

copytechman
03-12-2010, 01:46 PM
Jeeez. This is a bundle o' fun! Well i'd certainly check the toner supply unit via 47 mode, (if you have the book) use 47 mode to check the assy, there's multiple codes the check for bottle rotation, auger drive and solenoid operation.. as well as a code to run the complete unit.. I don't have the book handy @ the moment tho, but if u look, it's in there.. also service mode (in the same are as the l-detect function) is a toner supply function, thats a good test as well, u can start/stop it and watch the unit from the front of the machine with the inside cover and inside metal cover removed.
I'd check the unit manually first, pull it, turn the 2 motor drives, does everything work inside? as well as operate the solenoid.. does it work? etc etc

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-12-2010, 08:32 PM
I don't have the codes but I checked it manually and it all worked (cleaned all the wheels, made sure they can spin, cleaned the solenoid, etc., vacuumed out most of the toner).
Once I put it all together and the auto toner supply began the bottle was spinning, I heard the solenoid engage at least once. Once the procedure stopped got the error code again. So I decided to check if toner makes it to the dropping point in the toner supply assembly. I took and the developing unit and inserted it back. Then took it out again and checked if toner made it into the developer. It did, quiet a bit actually. So I mixed the toner and developer manually shifting the developing unit back and forward. Then I inserted it back and did the same thing without making any copies. This time less toner feel into the developer which I expected since the copier was not engaged. I turned the copier off and on and did the procedure once more. This time similar amount of toner feel into the developer when I took it out and put it back in as initially (quiet a bit of toner again). This suggests to me that the second engine on the toner supply unit also works and drives the spiral that transports the toner to the drop off point (especially since I did vacuum the area initially).

Do you think it may have something to do with the fact that I did the L detect twice after I fixed the error 26-3?
What else can I check? Should I do another L detect (I don't care, will change that developer anyway)?
Notice that the L detect value is now at something like 86 (which is way off the 60-65 that it should be at).

The fact that I did replaced the developer the first time and the toner was mixed with it and I was able to print like 500 copies before the auto toner supply came on tells me that there is absolutely no problem with the mechanical part of the toner delivery system.
BTW, I got the new TDS sensor so I will install it later today.

copytechman
03-12-2010, 10:23 PM
At this point if you've checked it out mechanically, then it may be the sensor on the toner supply unit (the piezo sensor) It's the only small square sensor on the supply unit, has 3 wires and is almost lower center of the rear of the unit, held on by 2 screws, much like the one that holds the tds sensor in place ;) .. Should be cleaned (very gently, it's pressure sensitive). Especially since the l-detect completed successfully... either that or it's not plugged in... hard to say... it may be time to call in a tech as was stated previously.

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-12-2010, 11:20 PM
Yes, I have seen that sensor. It was plugged in. I will clean it today. How should I clean it? Can I use alcohol?

copytechman
03-13-2010, 01:43 AM
Alcohol should be ok, just be very careful with it.. its very sensitive and likely very easy to damage...

Regards and good luck!
A.

eurosears
03-13-2010, 02:30 AM
How can you damage it? WHat I should do not to damage it? How to clean it?

copytechman
03-13-2010, 04:18 AM
Be very gentle with it... It's pressure sensitive... assuming it's ok... clean surface with cloth with alcohol... gently...

Regards.
A.

eurosears
03-14-2010, 07:36 AM
Ok, I did the following:
1. Cleaned the "Piezo" sensor on the Auto Toner Supply System. The sensor was fully covered with toner. I used cotton swabs to clean the sensor extremely gently, at the end using minimal
amount of alcohol on them to finish the job. Also I marked gears for both engines that are connected to the Toner Supply Unit to make sure that these engines operate properly.
2. Turned on the copier and let it do the Auto Toner Supply thing after I made a few copies
3. After 3 minutes it gave me the 26-1 error.
4. So I replaced (finally) the old/damaged TDS sensor on the Developing Unit with a new one
5. Turn on the machine, did a few copies and I let it do the Auto Toner Supply thing again
6. After 3 minutes it gave me the 26-4 error again. I checked the position of the gears on the toner supply unit and they all moved since I marked them.

So, what is the problem? Could it be the fact that I ran the L detect twice already
(after I fixed the 0006 problem) and the Value is now at 89 (it should be somewhere between 60 and 65 at best). Basically the developer/toner mixture may be throwing it all off.
What do you think>?

pepper38_cnd
03-14-2010, 01:51 PM
Yes when you change the sensor you have to do a dev change and run L Detect before the machine has made any copies with the new dev.

copytechman
03-14-2010, 04:55 PM
Am I mistaken? Had you run l-detect with the new tds sensor and new dev yet or not? Because like pepper said, it makes a difference!
Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-15-2010, 12:05 AM
No, I have not yet run the l detect with the new developer and sensor. It was all done with the old developer/toner mixture.
Ok, so before I add the developer:
I know I need to clean the developer unit very well (remove the TDS sensor prior).
Now, do I need to clean the Toner SUpply System since if I insert the developer unit with the new developer into the copier some toner will fall into it before doing the L detect from the toner supply unit if I don't clean it. Is there anything else I need to clean?
Once I run the L-detect can I just turn the copier off and then back on?

copytechman
03-15-2010, 01:12 AM
Of all of my machines in the field, I have yet to remove the toner supply unit and clean it (much less the toner bottle) when doing the l-detect.... I generally clean out the dev unit thoroughly, load the new dev, then run l-detect. Thats about it... (not withstanding if the machine requires other service) I don't usually reboot the machine either unless I have to... I typically power off (rear switch), clean/replace dev, power up in 36 mode, run l-detect, power off and then power on normally.. (again if the machine needed other service I'd do that too) .. I don't ever run l-detect on OLD dev because it never works reliably.. tds sensor not withstanding..
Oh yes, also reset the dev counter in 25 mode > parts counter.

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-15-2010, 02:39 AM
So, basically you are saying, it is not necessary to clean the toner supply unit when adding new developer and doing the l-detect?

copytechman
03-15-2010, 03:30 AM
Not for me it hasn't been as of yet..
A.

eurosears
03-15-2010, 05:28 AM
Before changing the developer I run another L-detect check using the new sensor but the old developer/toner mix. The L-detect started running but then I got error 0005. Should I worry about it or is it the old developer/toner mix that's throwing it off? I ran two consecutive L-detect procedures successfully using the old sensor but the same developer/toner mixture.

I changed back to the old sensor (didn't change the developer yet) and now I have 0006. I though that maybe the sensor on the drum is dirty (again?) but then when I took out the drum it was all black. This may have something to do with the fact that I just cleaned the corona. So now I am getting the 26-1 error, maybe because the auto toner supply has not delivered enough toner into the developer.

Can you tell me the switch to turn off any 26 codes so that I can run a few copies to clean the drum a little?
Thank you

UPDATE: Ok, I removed the old sensor and put the new one back in and it ran, I made a few copies and tuned off the copier. I don't what was wrong, software glitch? I turned the copier on and I ran the L-detect, it ran for a while and then game me error 0005 (still using old developer/toner mixture). So how do I deal with this error? Based on what I have learned this error indicates bad developer. So this makes sense, should I just ignore it before changing the developer?. BTW how can I print a page of all the error codes I may be getting while doing L-detect. I can see only 0005 now
SHould I change the developer now or run/test more things? I promised myself that if the developer change is not going to work the copier is going to be disassembled :)

copytechman
03-15-2010, 01:25 PM
Run the l-detect with the new dev and tds sensor and t-shoot from there.. you need a good starting point.

Regards!
A.

eurosears
03-15-2010, 06:27 PM
So you think that the 0005 error is related to the bad developer?

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