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henry finley
05-25-2011, 03:35 AM
Very strange. I go to Recall Standard Data: Process adjustment data restore, and the Yes button does nothing. The NO button and the previous screen buttons work, but not the Yes button. Apparent result is that no adjustment is going to happen. Zilch.
The trouble I'm in the middle of is determining why my Magenta particularly, and Cyan to some degree; print blotchy. I did a developer change, yet the problem came back. I have to run 30-50 copies on 20lb bond, a full sheet solid of the offending color just to get the offending color to smooth out before I can start in on my job that requires that color. Or I end up with a blotchy job.
And another thing--I've read about seeing to it the corona wire is clean I don't see any wire. I pull out the long frame with the fine mesh on the front of it, but I don't see any blamed wire, unless it's microscopic in diameter.
I've gotten along pretty well on working on this thing, but some things like this make no sense. Thank you.

henry finley
05-26-2011, 01:23 AM
Well I ask kindly if someone can at least tell me what dip switch cuts off the drum potential sensors (related to SC29-22). Thank you.

RRodgers
05-26-2011, 02:31 AM
Before doing all that, go into keyop mode then down to number 21 (execute adjust operation) then highlight all 4 (toner refreash, belt refreash.... etc) and then hit ok, back all the way out and let the box do it's thing. (it will run for about 3 mins) and then see how your copies come out after that. (should be much better) if you do not see number 21 in the keyop list you need to go in and set the dip switches up so it will show them. (I don't remember the dip switch number I think it's 12-something)
GL

henry finley
05-26-2011, 02:57 AM
Thank you. That would have been my first action, had I not just replaced all the developers 3 weeks ago. I've been trying to avoid that, based on that fact, and on the fact that I'll end up losing a whole bunch of wasted toner. Those toner refreshes get expensive, quick. Looking down in the waste-toner box is sickening. That might be what I end up doing, though. And I know it won't last long before it comes back. The machine is not located in what you'd call an "office environment". The machine gets the same weather I do--from whatever the open window brings me--hot, cold, or miserable. That's probably 2/3 of my problems.

RRodgers
05-26-2011, 03:07 AM
I would agree, people (customers) rarely expect "enviorment" (sp?) as one of the problems with the machine and how it will affect a color copiers output. I try to explain this to ALL my customers, sometimes they get it... usually not. One thing you can try is to change some of the dip switch settings so the copier will "calibrate" mid run. Or check toner density more often (don't use the default of 1000 pages on a printer's copier) they will always comeplain. Maybe lower it down to 500 pages.
HTH

henry finley
05-26-2011, 04:17 AM
Well, I'm afraid it's too late. I've destroyed my machine trying to learn too much too fast. By reading these threads, I hit on a suggestion to switch developer units and tape over the opening to avoid contamination. I did so, against my better judgement. Immediately I got a 50-01, I believe it was. Upon reading, I've caused a disastrous mess Burned out a fancy chip or some doodad in the electronics. The visible fuses are still good, so it's a big mess, for sure. I'm afraid I've lost my machine. I'm pretty good, electronicly and mechanically, but this is obviously a plain deadly disaster. Looks like I have a big boat anchor now. You agree? Thanks, friend. PS--service man isn't an option. I'm too far from the city. I'm in the boondocks.

henry finley
06-01-2011, 07:59 PM
Well I think I finally tracked down my circuit board problem due to my ill-advised developer unit swap. It appears that ICP 22 is open, which is a fuse related to the 5 volt operation on the Printer Control Board. I have the choice of pulling the board and paying $450 to have it worked on, or jury-rigging some sort of glass fuse or something soldered across it. But what amperage, I wonder. Radio Shack doesn't have much anymore these days, and I shutter at the horror of soldering something too strong in there and leave the board wide open to being fried.
A repair like this is nothing to me as a good electronic hobbiest and radio man. But what fuse should I try? 450 dollars to save a thousand dollar machine, or take the risk of rigging a another kind of fuse in there. What a quandary.

henry finley
06-02-2011, 05:47 PM
This copytechnet is good, but it needs WAY more action. I'm going to get busy looking at the schematics of my fuse problem, then look at the parts physically, and make my best guess as to what amperage fuse to solder in across ICP22. I'm not sure what Radio Shack even has in stock any more. I'm going to start maybe at 1/2 amp, and see if it blows it. Then to 1. If I have to go higher than that, I'm going to get worried. I just don't see more than 5 watts power in that whole circuit.
If I get a fuse in there and 50-01 doesn't come up at boot-up, then I'll know I'm getting somewhere. The question is, will I be frying the PCRB? Nobody's answering me, so I'll keep you guys posted. Don't write me in 3 years, anybody, when you see this thread. I'll have forgotten all about it.

RRodgers
06-02-2011, 07:16 PM
I think you can buy those fuses, I'm pretty sure we have bought some. Look around online.

henry finley
06-02-2011, 07:35 PM
Thanks--I'll try. But those IC's look the same, but I bet the amperages are from .1 to 1 million. No matter what I do, it's like all the other things I've learned self taught and become near-expert at. Automatic transmissions, radio/TV/ Ham, camera repair, on and on. I've ruined a lot of devices in my day, but in the end, I made them all right, and never lost a patient, if it took thousands of hours. I'm a self-taught Hasselblad man. Nothing can stop me now. Courage is the key. Damn my shaking, scared hands. I'm doing this.
This is one of the better technical boards on the net. Some quality people on here. Reminescent of the kinds of guys you find in Amateur Radio. Thanks, friend--HTF
Maybe one day, another desperate guy, scared to death to dive into his machine, will see my plight here, my refusal to be beaten, and put his mind to the problem. Never quit.
When that machine boots with no 50-01, I'll post and tell about it.

henry finley
06-03-2011, 06:36 PM
I came back to address to the friends who've followed the 50-01 saga. I've had a success! Not finished, but have proven my idea--the machine is sitting over here all apart , but working. I needed to get some sort of a fuse across !CP22. So I got a clothespin and some straight pins. I attached the straight pins to the clothespin, and clipped it across ICP22, and dug-in the sharp points into the soft solder on the board. It took 2-3 hours on this idea, because everything is so tiny and close together on the PRCB. You CANNOT accidentally touch something else.
Then I clipped some alligator clip cords to the pins. Then I clipped an ordinary .75 amp Radio Shack glass fuse to the jumper cords. And the machine fired up with 50-01 gone.
I have no intention of replacing the ICP on the circuit board. Instead, I'm just going to solder in a fine 2-conductor wire and run it off-site and fasten it somewhere. Just going to keep on with the Radio Shack cheap glass fuse. These machines will ALL be in the scrap metal yard before too many years. So why try to treat it like a 1958 Hammarlund radio or some Heathkit collectors item? Thanks friends.

henry finley
06-03-2011, 10:25 PM
Done. It works!

Coptech
06-03-2011, 11:06 PM
Do a search on pico fuses and you should find the info to read the fuse ratings.

Albert
10-14-2011, 09:33 PM
Hi Henry, Seems that not many people having the SC50-01 error problem on this machines.
I recently make a mess on my machine and burned the ICP 22 fuser on the PRCB, I tested and is borned. I checked the Fuser and is a 1.0amp, Now i read all the information on your thread and you mentioned that you used a .75 amp Radio Shack glass fuser and some clothe pins.

why you didnt used a 1.0amp fuser?
Is your machine working good with the .75 amps?

I really need some help before i burne this machine. thank you

henry finley
10-14-2011, 10:15 PM
Hi Henry, Seems that not many people having the SC50-01 error problem on this machines.
I recently make a mess on my machine and burned the ICP 22 fuser on the PRCB, I tested and is borned. I checked the Fuser and is a 1.0amp, Now i read all the information on your thread and you mentioned that you used a .75 amp Radio Shack glass fuser and some clothe pins.

why you didnt used a 1.0amp fuser?
Is your machine working good with the .75 amps?

I really need some help before i burne this machine. thank you

I scrapped that machine and got another one; it was such a total bag of problems, I got sick of the whole damn thing. But to answer your question--yes, that particular fuse substitution DID work, insofar as that particular problem went. I can't remember how I arrived at the .75 value, other than to vaguely remember that all the others were .75, so I just took a chance, or was it that I knew the voltage, guessed at the amperage, and did a little ohm's law equation? Can't remember. But .75 or 1--I don't see the big deal on the difference, so I'd just use a 1, if that's all I had. The way these machine are, it doesn't matter what problem you fix, as soon enough there's going to be another one. I'll bet the space shuttle was more dependable than any color copier. They were just a bad idea.

Albert
10-15-2011, 04:14 AM
Hi Henry, I fixed the sc50-01 error on my bizhub c500
I went to an electronic store and buy a soldering tool, .75amps 250V fuse, an Inline Fuse Holder and an electrical tape. I solder one wire on each side of the ICP 22 fuser and the machine is working good now, I dont have that error code anymore. Thank you for your advice you were very helpful. I saved a $1000 so happy cheers

henry finley
10-15-2011, 05:07 AM
Hi Henry, I fixed the sc50-01 error on my bizhub c500
I went to an electronic store and buy a soldering tool, .75amps 250V fuse, an Inline Fuse Holder and an electrical tape. I solder one wire on each side of the ICP 22 fuser and the machine is working good now, I dont have that error code anymore. Thank you for your advice you were very helpful. I saved a $1000 so happy cheers

Good. I'm glad that the saga I went through and wrote about, did somebody out there some good.

Ianizer
10-15-2011, 07:05 AM
Happy news the 5001 is corrected.

Sorry to read the 'ill advised' developer swap seems to have induced a problem. It's a technique I've used a number of times (and suggested) with no adverse effects... It was first suggested to me by K-M TS engineers. Not that a problem with the little parlour trick couldn't exist, but I maintain that it's quite a simple and harmless procedure if done with care. Frankly, I'm stunned. I'd be interested to know, time allowing, how exactly troubleshooting the developers boat-anchored the machine.

-I

Albert
10-15-2011, 08:39 AM
I gotthe SC50-01 error code not by switching developers unit, I think I betterexplain so that I can help other to be careful when dealing with theirmachines.

I was talking on my cell phone and took out the magenta developer unit to cleanit and to remove some magnet dust that was causing some lines on my prints,when I replaced the magenta developer unit I forgot to attach the wireconnector that connects from the printer unit to the developer unit (are theonly wires that goes to the developer unit), anyways...not to make the storylong... when I push the image unit to close the copier door I got the SC50-01error code which I never had this error in the past nor fixed any errors onthat category, I was surprised cause my machine was running great and now allof the sudden I get a weird error message, I stop the machine and check mymagenta cable and it was crushed into peaces
and the wires touched the copier's metal frame and burned the ICP 22 fuser on the PRCB I searched for this errorand found my friend Henry having this same problem on his machine I follow his suggestionand fix it by replacing the burned fuse to a .75amp fuse. Now the machine isrunning back again and just finish printing over 20,000 copies without anyproblem, by the way I just replaced all the drums, the developers and a bunchof other part. I would like to mention that I was going to swap the PRCB fromanother machine that I use for parts but find out that I can not use a usedPRCB from another machine as the Serial number is encrypted to the board chip,and a new board costs about $1000 plus shipping and handling so I saved a $1000and spend only about $50 for a good solder, 75amps fuse and an Inline fuseholder. cheers

Ianizer
10-16-2011, 04:29 AM
Ah! I am relieved -- both that you have a fix and that Musical Developers maintains its place in polite troubleshooting society!

I remain stunned, however, by the application of a fuse on PRCB to repair E50-01 (WTF???), since 50-01 relates, not to an open circuit, but to a continuous 12V signal from the DCPS...

Just goes to show... E-lek-troniks is magic.

Nice bit of fancy techin.

-I

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