BH 223/283/363/423 Fuser rebuilds

[maccopy]

Anyone rebuilding these units?
A new fuser is over $300. Konica Minolta does not list individual parts. Many of the parts are the same as BH350 but the thermistors are different, looking for a part# or source for thermistor.

[blackcat4866]

I've found heat rollers at Katun, but have not found heat roller claws yet. These fusers typically last 240K before the heat roller peels at the claws. I believe that the pressure roller and bearings will last the full 480K.

Does anybody know a part number for a compatible hr claw, and/or a source? =^..^=

[CraigW]

We have quite a few of these showing problems very early on, 36 & 42s as well.

The 200 series fusers would last forever.

These are failing very quick for what they cost.

[emujo]

You can get the specified life out of most of them if you take a moment and clean the thermistor at each service call. I'm not saying they don't fail early though, even the new 4 series fusers are crapping out around 100K. Emujo

[CraigW]

It does mark at the safety stat but we also get wear at the claws.


Like at the rear, and the line is a short way from the top.

[PeterG]

I seem to recall reading something on CSES about upping the fuser temp by 5 Degs to help reduce the wear.
I will see if I can find it.

[krm]

I rebuild the Bh200/2510 fuser with a $100.00 kit. VS. $300 fuser at Minolta, but it takes a couple hours to do all the parts/orange rollers, etc. and clean + lube. I did one on site at busy law firm and it was stressful with everyone holding reams of paper looking at me. I'm wondering if it's worth the time vs. just buying it?

[copierguru]

I re-build these all the time 423/250. I've found the oem fusers are all over the place in yields. I've got some that last usually 100 - 150K and I've had some go almost 300K. I just replace the ufr (muratec branded) p/n DA14705060. I can replace these in under 30mins. I also get rid of the the grounding clip that's rides under the ufr on the right side so theres no squeaking. Been doing it for years and no problems

[Hansoon]

I re-build these all the time 423/250. I've found the oem fusers are all over the place in yields. I've got some that last usually 100 - 150K and I've had some go almost 300K. I just replace the ufr (muratec branded) p/n DA14705060. I can replace these in under 30mins. I also get rid of the the grounding clip that's rides under the ufr on the right side so theres no squeaking. Been doing it for years and no problems

Same to me for the BH-350 series. I need about 40 minutes however but I reinstall the grounding clip, perhaps that's why? :rolleyes:

Hans

[Accentcp]

Same to me for the BH-350 series. I need about 40 minutes however but I reinstall the grounding clip, perhaps that's why? :rolleyes:

Hans

Are you sure the BH3510/350 upper fusing roller will work in the BH363/423 series fuser units?

[Toxic]

Hi,if i understand good,fusing roller from bizhub 250/350 fits for Bizhub 223/283/423?
I have one Bizhub 223 with error code C-3723, but machine have near 500k and fusing roller look like horor and finaly stop working ;)
Is this highest fusing life here in this topic? ;)

[CraigW]

450K Is the rated life on these.... many will have marks on prints very early on (less then 100k)

[gitana1983]

I re-build these all the time 423/250. I've found the oem fusers are all over the place in yields. I've got some that last usually 100 - 150K and I've had some go almost 300K. I just replace the ufr (muratec branded) p/n DA14705060. I can replace these in under 30mins. I also get rid of the the grounding clip that's rides under the ufr on the right side so theres no squeaking. Been doing it for years and no problems

Question,

Any idea where to get the thermistors for the MInolta Bizhub 423? I already have a kit with both rollers but need urgently the thermistors, any help will be appreciated.

Thanks

[allan]

There is 3de party thermistors available for BH224 that works fine. Bad toner is a killer on the upper roller.

[gitana1983]

I've found heat rollers at Katun, but have not found heat roller claws yet. These fusers typically last 240K before the heat roller peels at the claws. I believe that the pressure roller and bearings will last the full 480K.

Does anybody know a part number for a compatible hr claw, and/or a source? =^..^=

I know is a little too late, Copylite has a kit that comes with both rollers and fuser claws, but is missing thermistors, if by any chance you were able to find them somewhere else, please point me in that direction!

[gitana1983]

There is 3de party thermistors available for BH224 that works fine. Bad toner is a killer on the upper roller.

Can't find a vendor that carries them, can you point me in the right direction?

[allan]

Im out here in ZA i get them from an after market importer that won't disclose this info. Get the BH250 ones and modify the wiring to work with the connector.

[avio2]

I've found heat rollers at Katun, but have not found heat roller claws yet. These fusers typically last 240K before the heat roller peels at the claws. I believe that the pressure roller and bearings will last the full 480K.

Does anybody know a part number for a compatible hr claw, and/or a source? =^..^=

the katun roller do not last more than IR

[avio2]

Im out here in ZA i get them from an after market importer that won't disclose this info. Get the BH250 ones and modify the wiring to work with the connector.

but fuser as'y bh 250 are completely different

[avio2]

but fuser as'y bh 250 are completely different
excuse me
i have read bad
thermistor with modify connector is ok

[hoyko]

Are you sure the BH3510/350 upper fusing roller will work in the BH363/423 series fuser units?

trabaja sin ningún problema

[Don N.]

UFR is same for 2010/2510/3010/3510/200/250/350/222/282/362/223/283/363/423. Press seems to go multiple rebuilds in past 3510 & 350 series.
I have some with one of the two lamp's filament broken, & warm up failure codes. Looking into using lamps from previous series since they are plentiful from trade-ins. Will have to modify the holders and splice/solder the wires, but that's why we are called tech's.