One way clutches.

[PeterG]

What are peoples views on slipping one way clutches?
Do you,
Clean the clutch, if you do clean the clutch, what do you lubricate it with?
Just replace the clutch?
Replace the clutch & the shaft it rides on?
How do you deal with the polished shaft?

We sort of do all of the above. The guys I work with seem to favour rubbing back the shaft with light emery paper, but I am of the opinion that this will remove the hardening.

Just after other opinions.
Thanks.

[techno77]

I personally lightly resurface the shaft where the one way rides and replace the one way bearing. If the outside diameter of the shaft is worn down I replace then shaft as well.

[ewizzy]

I personally lightly resurface the shaft where the one way rides and replace the one way bearing. If the outside diameter of the shaft is worn down I replace then shaft as well.


Firstly, I measure the diameter of the shaft on a non worn part of the shaft with calipers, if its worn I'll replace the shaft and the one way bearing. if not worn, then I use 800 grit wet and dry paper and take the shine off the shaft, measure again to make sure I haven't worn the shaft down too much. If thats OK, then I will use petrol lighter fluid on a lint free cloth, slip the one way bearing over a corner of the cloth, and then turn the one way bearing on the cloth until it runs clean. repeat if necessary until the solvent on the cloth stops getting crap on it.

Refit and test, hopefully it works perfectly. If not. replace.

[jotunn]

Do you still believe that there is any kind of hardening on shafts surface?
We've got customers with Bizhub 250 bought at the beginning of production (now over 1M pages printed/copied), and there are still factory installed shafts.
Shafts bought as a replacement part often make problems - they are polished soon, and cannot reach full life count.

[EarthKmTech]

there is an outer coating on some shafts as I've seen it worn through on some high volume machines, by that state its well and truly time to replace it.

Most of the time I change the 1 way clutches with the rollers as they are half the price of the rollers anyway and cheap insurance. Separation torque limiters are not to be forgotten about either.

[Zackuth]

We use rubbing alcohol to clean the clutches, just pour it on/in the clutch and spin it until clean. I use a scotch pad if the shaft surface looks too shiny. If the problem comes back "quickly" (quick as reletive to machine and copy count, but I use a week for a standard time frame), I'll replace the clutch. If I feel the shaft has a groove in it, I'll replace it.

[Taminol]

What are peoples views on slipping one way clutches?
Do you,
Clean the clutch, if you do clean the clutch, what do you lubricate it with?
Just replace the clutch?
Replace the clutch & the shaft it rides on?
How do you deal with the polished shaft?

We sort of do all of the above. The guys I work with seem to favour rubbing back the shaft with light emery paper, but I am of the opinion that this will remove the hardening.

Just after other opinions.
Thanks.


I usually look around the office for a lady with nice fingernails and ask if she has an emery board I can borrow. I'll buff the shaft to remove the shine and spray out the one way clutch with solvent. Next I spray solvent on to a cloth and poke the cloth through the middle of the clutch and spin it on it.
All seems to work fine.

[Ray G.]

What we've been doing for the last few years is to rid the shaft of the "shine" using a small section of a chore girl scrubbing pad. Then using the corner of a lint free cleaning cloth, clean the inside of the one-way bearing. Seem to work pretty good.

[KM1Amsterdam]

I just clean the shaft and rinse down the clutch, which i call a bearing of one-way gear. Cannot seem to decide what is best for rinsing, alcohol, contactspray of ptfe lubericant or maybe wd40.

I don;t mind the shiny shaft, just clean/degrease with my cloth and check with my nail, if a rim of edge had formed on the side of the shiny part. Replace the shaft if needed.

I also try to look for the one-way which drives the fuser exit rollers. Always problems when this one gets greasy.

[blackcat4866]

I just clean the shaft and rinse down the clutch, which i call a bearing of one-way gear. Cannot seem to decide what is best for rinsing, alcohol, contact spray of ptfe lubericant or maybe wd40.

I don;t mind the shiny shaft, just clean/degrease with my cloth and check with my nail, if a rim of edge had formed on the side of the shiny part. Replace the shaft if needed.

I also try to look for the one-way which drives the fuser exit rollers. Always problems when this one gets greasy.


This is about the closest to my personal philosophy.
I'm not finding much consensus here. I'll add to the confusion with my own theories:

I do soak out one-way clutches, one-way bearings, or Torrington's (whatever you want to call them), in alcohol, then swab out the inside with a wooden handled cotton swab (mine are medical grade). I lubricate with a couple drops of 3 in 1 light oil or TriFlow. By the way, WD40 is not a lubricant, and it attacks most plastics!

I disagree with a lot of techs about the shafts. Most techs I know like to rough up the shafts with sandpaper or scotchbrite. In my personal opinion these one-ways work best on a smooth shaft of a very specific size. As long as the shaft size remains the same I do nothing to it, regardless of how shiny it is. If the shaft is worn down in diameter or the plating is peeling off, I'll replace the shaft. Only very infrequently do I see a shaft that's worn enough to replace.

One-way bearings rely on the cylinder bearing movement to grip a specific sized shaft, not friction. Why would you want to reduce the size of the shaft? To make it slip more?

I don't expect to change anyone's mind. I've had this argument too many times to think otherwise. Take it or leave it, you're choice. =^..^=

[PeterG]

Thanks for all the responses guys.
It is interesting to get other peoples opinions on this sort of stuff. I like to listen to other ideas, rather than continue down the old "that's the way we have always done it route.":)

[Konicoz]

and there's always that 1 guy who cant be bothered to remove the clutch or gears to clean or lube squeak and sprays the whole back of the machine with wd40 .......what should I do with him? :/

[methogod]

spray him with WD40 and light him on fire...

or hire better people...

[blackcat4866]

and there's always that 1 guy who cant be bothered to remove the clutch or gears to clean or lube squeak and sprays the whole back of the machine with wd40 .......what should I do with him? :/

I sure don't know ... but it just makes me cringe when I hear about it. Some people should choose less challenging occupations. =^..^=

[blackcat4866]

I've gathered quite a lot of information, but the most organized presentation is by Koyo. Pay special attention to the Canon NP-6060 at the end of the brochure. Here is some interesting reading:

255632556525566

The shaft diameter is crucial. And in the maintenance section I didn't read a single word about sanding the shaft. They do say quite a bit about measuring the diameter though. Size is crucial. =^..^=

[jotunn]

Sure diameter is important, but as you can see it has some tolerance.
But, there are other important parameters - surface hardness and surface roughness in table on page 4. Hardness not lower than 30-50HRC (depending on one way clutch type), and surface roughness max. 0.3-0.8Ra... and now important thing - what is the meaning of "max." - Ra for polished surface is 0.02-0.01, Ra for lathe finishing 80-2.5 (depending on grade of finishing), so where the scale begins?

I think that one way clutches problem comes from too low surface hardness of shafts - friction and forces in clutches are just polishing and destroying factory designed surface roughness. Also a micro particles coming from shaft surface mixes with clutch lubricant and blocks its precision construction.

If someone has an ultrasonic cleaner can try to remove all the grease and dirt from clutch, put a new grease and new shaft - it should last for almost the same time as new one.
You can also try flame hardening on factory shafts, so we could see if shaft make problem.

[habik]

WD40 to dissolve anything on the shaft and then polish it off with a dry cloth. One-Way bearing WD40 soak , then corner of lint fee cloth and do the clock-wise and counter clock-wise movements until I get clean cloth. When happy soak in IPA and blow out all IPA and any remains/residues of WD40 until dry. If you don't WD40 residue will attack any paper particles and crates a slush which accumulates and eventually fails the one-way sooner or later, depends on the quality of the paper.

Clutches- Disassemble and plates are cleaned with WD40. Then just clean wipe just with IPA contact plates of the clutch. Reason I don't fully clean it with IPA is that they tend last longer and corrosion is less present.

Regards to WD40 squirters all over the place… and leaving it .. imagine finding Transfer Roller washed in WD40 … there and then I just ..bury my head in my hands…

On positive note WD40 is fantastic rejuvenator for rubber reg rolls covered with paper cellulose residue.. it takes 3-5 times as long to clean it with IPA then with WD40. Either way once clean I wipe the roller with IPA after just to get the WD40 off.

If problem persist, I change the one-ways.

[MFPTech]

and there's always that 1 guy who cant be bothered to remove the clutch or gears to clean or lube squeak and sprays the whole back of the machine with wd40 .......what should I do with him? :/
I suggest you supply him with one way clutches and one way bearings and torque limiters so he can replace them when they fail and forbid him using WD40 so he and your company look professional, reduce the callbacks and maximize your profit and customer's satisfaction. Oh, supply him with shafts too in case they are worn out and cleaning them lightly with scotchbrite doesn't help.

[methogod]

Common Sense Need Apply...

my POV is simple, if the one way is deep in an assembly that is hard to get apart without major disassemble. Then i do agree with cleaning in place. No WD40 but yes, i have had BH 920s that have the drive loop motor which has a few one way bearings and clutches which require many parts to be removed to replace parts. I cleaned the one ways on shaft by moved them back and forth - removing as few C clips as possible.

Now in regards to let's say the C6501 fuser drive. I pull them apart every few months, and clean and replace where needed. As the wear on that area is much greater when you have heat, grease and toner all mixing together.

I dont think i agree with the 1 million life they claim on that material. I would cut that in half, which is what konica does - most one ways and clutches are rated for 600K, some more if they are in duplex and only used in half the printing process....

just depends. Common sense will get you very far... Now IMO you get 1 shot to ruff up the shaft, after that you must replace.

[occus]

My opinion: never scratch the shaft (i don't change the oneway clutches...)
only clean it with a cloth (medical grade) with pure isopropanol... the shaft and the clutches!

[copier addict]

I lightly scuff the shafts with 150 grit emery cloth and clean the one way with a cloth. I do not lube after cleaning. I rarely need to replace one ways.

[Tech80]

I've used this Traction Oil for over 20 years. After cleaning the new oneway bearing, i use Graham Transmissions, Traction Oil, part#23-0015-00 Quart size, add a drop or 2 and it's ready to go. You don't want to use too much as I think it will defeat it's purpose.
I have in a bind, cleaned used bearings and a couple of drops of Traction oil and it usually works until I can order a new one. I've even had some success, when the bearing/gear is difficult to remove and you have to order another, to try to wash it/flush out with alcohol while installed and dripping a couple of drops so they go into the bearing still on the shaft. Many times will work until the replacement part comes in.

Graham used to have Traction Oil called Liquid Gold (and it worked super), but EPA shut that one down, then they came out with the Traction Oil.
Graham Transmissions, Milwaukee, Wisconsin, ph 414.355.8800.

[ivovb]

Lately I have issue with paper jams from bypass on BH C550. It was ... one way clutches. Fortunately they costs only 6 euro each. New was easier this time... Strange to say that KMs troubleshooting does not involve these parts. Or it is?

BR

[John Alldrick]

I'm with BlackCat about sanding shafts - : Supposed to be SMOOTH - no abrasives - no scratches

I use my oldest worn-out scotch-brite pad with all the Teflon coating gone (almost yellow in color) & Isopropyl & clean shafts around to shiny only

the 2 common sizes of 1-ways fit (for me) perfectly on either my #2 or #1 Philips shaft. I mount on my driver shaft vertically, apply a few drops of alcohol & spin 'til clean and free-wheeling

I used to use Tri-flo until on a Prod color course, a senior tech from California mentioned the Teflon particles would occasionally cause an issue

now I use 2 drops red standard transmission fluid (ATF) - doesn't bother the nylon in 1-ways, and designed to release particles, not carry them. I apply while on the Driver shaft & spin to get rid of excess - needs just a very thin layer. I don't use cotton swabs anymore for fear of a fibre getting caught & left behind - but I'm old & feeble

I have sub-production (C650 ish) machines with 10 million clicks (counting 11x17 as one) and NEVER replaced feed shafts ... ever.

Some of my co-workers seem to replace 1-ways almost with every feed roll. (I think they're lazy ...)

If I test it after cleaning and it slips, I replace it, but I'd estimate I've replaced less than 50 in 30+ years