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chejay127
11-25-2014, 11:00 AM
Help me sir.. I have got this problem since last week and I am wasting a lot of my bond papers. Sometimes it would print just fine but most of the time paper would just jam the registration roller or came out folded and distorted from its fuser. I tried to remove the registration assembly to clean and lubricate all the bushings but i still have the problem. One thing I noticed is that the gears clutch of the roller is a little bit worn out.. Can that be the problem? THanks!

fixthecopier
11-25-2014, 11:36 AM
If you are jamming at the reg roller, the clutch has failed. Not the gears on it, the clutch itself. I change these all the time.

Smyers
11-25-2014, 12:23 PM
Help me sir.. I have got this problem since last week and I am wasting a lot of my bond papers. Sometimes it would print just fine but most of the time paper would just jam the registration roller or came out folded and distorted from its fuser. I tried to remove the registration assembly to clean and lubricate all the bushings but i still have the problem. One thing I noticed is that the gears clutch of the roller is a little bit worn out.. Can that be the problem? THanks!



The the bushings will wallow out also and cause paper to jam or wrinkle. Try changing them around after cleaning. And the reg rollers can wear . Sometimes you can feel the wear or see it .

fixthecopier
11-25-2014, 12:45 PM
Run the F-12 test print. Compare all the pages. If the image starts to track off the page, the clutch is slipping and failing. I had 300 of these in place for 6 years. Never changed a bushing, and only changed 1 reg roller, but I changed a lot of clutches. Those clutches groan a lot when they are failing. An important clue would be the meter count. The more info you post, the better the replies will be.

I have also had packing material behind the reg roller, years after it was installed. Been laying in one spot and one day get jarred and then grabs the roller. Last one rolled around behind the reg for almost 5 years before grabbing the roller and pealing it like an orange. Machine had 900,000 on it.

chejay127
11-26-2014, 02:31 AM
Run the F-12 test print. Compare all the pages. If the image starts to track off the page, the clutch is slipping and failing. I had 300 of these in place for 6 years. Never changed a bushing, and only changed 1 reg roller, but I changed a lot of clutches. Those clutches groan a lot when they are failing. An important clue would be the meter count. The more info you post, the better the replies will be.

I have also had packing material behind the reg roller, years after it was installed. Been laying in one spot and one day get jarred and then grabs the roller. Last one rolled around behind the reg for almost 5 years before grabbing the roller and pealing it like an orange. Machine had 900,000 on it.


Thanks sir I will try the F-12, I don't have the spare clutch yet.. Reg roller looks fine and I don't really have a track about its meter, you see sir I got this machine from a friend about a year now and the meter count is at 226,234. When I'm opening its right door cover to remove paper jam, I could see the paper is not feed into the fuser rollers, looks like the reg roller is pushing the paper into the fuser and would just fold because fuser would not feed the paper.. Is there adjustment for the fuser roller tightness just like other Konicas?

fixthecopier
11-26-2014, 02:46 AM
Thanks sir I will try the F-12, I don't have the spare clutch yet.. Reg roller looks fine and I don't really have a track about its meter, you see sir I got this machine from a friend about a year now and the meter count is at 226,234. When I'm opening its right door cover to remove paper jam, I could see the paper is not feed into the fuser rollers, looks like the reg roller is pushing the paper into the fuser and would just fold because fuser would not feed the paper.. Is there adjustment for the fuser roller tightness just like other Konicas?

Your fuser is driven by a motor through a gear pack. Not very likely it is not moving. there is also a reg sensor under the paper dust collector. Is it working ?

chejay127
11-26-2014, 03:05 AM
I did f-12 and prints are not out of track some of the pages were wrinkled though, but the print lines were straight. So maybe the wrinkle is done by the fuser sir? I have cleaned the reg sensor by a blower and I could see it tilting when a paper passes through it.

allan
11-26-2014, 07:03 AM
check if the image area in the wrinkles are void if they are it is you registration if there is toner in the wrinkles its the after transfer.

Blizzoo
11-26-2014, 05:56 PM
Clean the paper guide on fusing entrance ,you can feel with your bare hands or remove IU and light the spot.

chejay127
11-27-2014, 08:50 AM
Clean the paper guide on fusing entrance ,you can feel with your bare hands or remove IU and light the spot.


Yes sir I checked the paper guide in the fusing and there's a toner buildup and its getting thick, so removed the plate and scrape it off and when i put it back the paper jam problem is gone. But after 40 pages of printing the problem came back and its building up dried toner in the paper guide of the fusing entrance again. I could also see that the back tip of the printed paper were a little bit dirty, so I guess the leaking is on the developer or drum assembly?

allan
11-27-2014, 09:34 AM
How old is the IU's?

Don N.
12-03-2014, 05:41 AM
Yes sir I checked the paper guide in the fusing and there's a toner buildup and its getting thick, so removed the plate and scrape it off and when i put it back the paper jam problem is gone. But after 40 pages of printing the problem came back and its building up dried toner in the paper guide of the fusing entrance again. I could also see that the back tip of the printed paper were a little bit dirty, so I guess the leaking is on the developer or drum assembly?

You have several issues. If you scraped off the entrance plate, go back with some d-ink or cleaner that will clean it off smooth. Buy a red can of CRC electronics cleaner (under $5 at Walmart). Pack towels under reg clutch and protect your image unit (drum) from splatter. Use the spray straw to force spray under clutch's white collar and spin it, also rotate reg roller, repeat several times. I rarely have to replace that clutch since flushing it works for a long time. Let dry and return to room temp for several minutes in case of condensation. Blow out clutch with canned air before CRC, then again after using CRC to help dry it faster. If buildup on fuser ent. plate is returning that fast, and trail edge of page is dirty, you probably need a transfer roller ass'y. We change every 200k. Any jams showing in counter for separation are likely from that clutch slipping.

chejay127
12-06-2014, 08:50 AM
I have my new transfer roller and Reg clutch now sir, and I haven't installed it yet.. How could I extend the life the transfer roller sir? And the right method of cleaning it? should dispose my old transfer roller together with its metal plate? thanks

Blizzoo
12-06-2014, 09:46 AM
Focus on the IU if you get toner spilled on paper in printing process,new transfer assy will not help that much.
I recommend replace the hole transfer roller after IU is remanufactured or changed because the plastic guide ends gets worn and metal frame is closer than it should be to OPC giving dirt in leading edge of the paper backside.

chejay127
12-06-2014, 10:39 AM
Focus on the IU if you get toner spilled on paper in printing process,new transfer assy will not help that much.
I recommend replace the hole transfer roller after IU is remanufactured or changed because the plastic guide ends gets worn and metal frame is closer than it should be to OPC giving dirt in leading edge of the paper backside.


I'd just removed the worn-out mylar on both sides of my mag roller, because I think it is touching the drum and scraping it off. I did also replaced the white spacer/collars, is it ok to just remove those mylars? I tried to fix it with a double sided tape but it wont hold.. Does that mean I should get a new Developing Unit or is there a supplier for these kind mylars with strong adhesive? And what is the purpose of those? thanks sir

Don N.
12-06-2014, 03:55 PM
I'd just removed the worn-out mylar on both sides of my mag roller, because I think it is touching the drum and scraping it off. I did also replaced the white spacer/collars, is it ok to just remove those mylars? I tried to fix it with a double sided tape but it wont hold.. Does that mean I should get a new dv310 developing Unit or is there a supplier for these kind mylars with strong adhesive? And what is the purpose of those? thanks sir
A new dv unit is just over $100 plus new dv plus drum unit rebuild kit must all be replaced together and procedure must be done precisely. All that is for image quality. You started with a jam problem. Did cleaning the fuser entrance guide plate smooth fix fan folded jams? Flushing the clutch? Once jams are fixed, then do drum, Dev, transfer. We usually retape over the mylars but they must be anchored down securely or just go with new dv unit, new dv, new drum. Must know f8 procedure and counter reset first or it will fail. I advise you get help with that. Hundreds of posts from techs not familiar, can't do it right.

chejay127
12-08-2014, 02:23 AM
A new dv unit is just over $100 plus new dv plus drum unit rebuild kit must all be replaced together and procedure must be done precisely. All that is for image quality. You started with a jam problem. Did cleaning the fuser entrance guide plate smooth fix fan folded jams? Flushing the clutch? Once jams are fixed, then do drum, Dev, transfer. We usually retape over the mylars but they must be anchored down securely or just go with new dv unit, new dv, new drum. Must know f8 procedure and counter reset first or it will fail. I advise you get help with that. Hundreds of posts from techs not familiar, can't do it right.

The jamming problem is gone sir, after I replaced the registration clutch and cleaned the fusing entrance paper guide.. The one thing I'm concerned right now is the worn-out mylars in the dev unit. I have a new Opc Drum and a developer, I need to know if I should re-taped those mylars back or should I wait for a new developer box before I install those.. I also had read some posts here about changing the IU because I had once encountered the C2557 error and fixed it by clearing the counters and running F8 sir.. thanks

Don N.
12-08-2014, 11:53 PM
We upgrade the spacers even on new dv units after seeing some tear up the rear mylar before a first pm is due. (Yes we are very careful about getting no dv in spacers). Used to do just the rear (gear drive) side, but now we upgrade spacers front & back on every 200's, 222's, 223's dv unit. I have taped mylars with high quality heavy duty packing tape on inside & outside when a hole is worn if mylar is still tight in place. That is key, or drum wear will return. As for F8 & reset counters, we have done that successfully up to about 30~40% of life. You need to be aware as they get older, the toner solenoid for the sub-hopper gets stuck open from rotten foam. That will cause a big toner dump & c2557. On any c2557 call, pull the I.U. out & put a flashlight on the solenoid plate behind it. See if it is engaged to the gear. If it is stuck open, (away from gear) you have to tear out the toner hopper drive unit & remove rotten foam from both solenoids. You must replace foam with 2-3 layers of elect tape or some thin rubber or cork shim or the solenoid will stay magnetized open. When you F8, the new toner density is memorized. If it is reasonable, great. If it is over or undertoned, well that will be it's new normal if it's within a reasonable range. It is possible to ease the ATDC setting up or down slowly. I recommend no more than 4 points at a time, followed by running user mgm't/toner replenisher drive at least twice to mix thoroughly. A higher # is more toner, lower is less. Example: a typical atdc is 145. if it sets up happy after a c2557 and re-F8 at say, 153, back it down to 149, run about 50 pages or just toner replenish twice, then back it down to 145 & toner replenish again twice. Toner is only added when it needs it, so you are just cycling it. Run high coverage copies to use up toner if decreasing the #. Run blank whites if increasing the #.
I know this covers several scenarios but maybe others will see this if searching the infamous c2557. Hope this helps.

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